一家没有“主理人”的咖啡店，为何吸引了一批又一批回头客？Why does a coffee shop without a "manager" attract waves of repeat customers?

在上海，街头的咖啡店密度高得像夏天梧桐叶间的光斑，走几步就有一家，拐个弯又能撞见另一家，也正因如此被不少网友调侃“血液里流淌的都是咖啡液”。在这样的城市里，一家咖啡店想要被记住并不容易，更别说让人专程赶来。但今天要探寻的这家店，经历过搬迁、选址、重新开张后，推门进来的，不是偶然路过的客人，而是一群老客人。他们不用看菜单，点单方式熟练得像回到自己家。有人进门第一句话常常是：“你们以前是不是开在黄陂南路上的？”那语气像在确认一个失而复得的老地方。

八角屿

黄浦区淡水路372号

能被老客人这样惦记，靠的当然不只是位置或运气。当记者问起店名寓意，店里工作人员很坦白：“没有特别寓意，首要的是好注册，真实地名不能注册，所以取了一个像地名的名字。”这个回答不浪漫，却很真实。采访那天，店员正在店里挑选咖啡豆，“意式豆、拼配豆都要再次手工挑选。”店员一边和记者闲聊一边说道，“虽然合作烘焙商已经在生产端做过质量筛选，但是难免还有瑕疵，挑一挑会更干净更好。”这样的话听起来简单，却是一杯咖啡口味干净与否的来处。

采访中，记者还发现一件更特别的事：这家店不太强调“主理人”这个概念。记者询问能不能称被采访者为主理人，对方很认真地回答：“店里从来不突出某一个人，也没有所谓的主理人概念。店有老板，但所有做咖啡的工作人员都是共同合伙人。这里就是一个纯粹做咖啡的地方。比如说，有些同行朋友想要在忙碌的工作空隙中调整一下状态（GAP），也可以加入我们。也正因为只想把咖啡这件事做好，我们这家店开到现在，有且只有这一家店。”

当下，连锁品牌加速扩张，独立小店的生存空间被不断挤压。在上海，不少咖啡店早已把竞争卷向特调、联名和打卡场景。在这样的环境里，八角屿“只开一家店”的坚持，显得有些“另类”。不过，这种另类并非刻意标新立异，而更像一种清醒的自我定位。它不追求规模，不制造话题，甚至不突出个人品牌，当许多独立小店在流量与规模之间摇摆时，八角屿选择把精力收回到一杯咖啡和一群老客人身上，让这家小店在拥挤的市场里找到自己的位置，也让它在喧嚣中保留了如岛屿般的安静。城市很大，咖啡店很多，但一座安静的岛屿，总会被需要它的人找到。

记者 / 张紫怡

编辑 / 刘韫文

图片 / 张紫怡 小红书网友

In Shanghai, the density of coffee shops on the street is as high as the light spots between the leaves of wutong trees in summer. Just a few steps away, one can run into another when turning a corner. Because of this, many netizens tease that "all the blood is flowing with coffee liquid". In such a city, it's not easy for a coffee shop to be remembered, let alone for someone to come all the way. But the store we are going to explore today, after going through relocation, site selection, and reopening, was not just a passing customer, but a group of old customers who came in. They don't have to look at the menu, the ordering method is so proficient that it feels like returning home. The first thing someone says when they enter is often, "Did you guys drive on Huangpi South Road before?" The tone seems to be confirming an old place that was lost and regained.

Bajiaoyu Island

372 Danshui Road, Huangpu District

Being remembered by old customers in this way certainly relies not only on location or luck. When asked about the meaning of the store name, the staff were very honest: "There is no special meaning, the first thing is that it is easy to register. Real place names cannot be registered, so a name that looks like a place name was chosen." This answer is not romantic, but very real. On the day of the interview, the shop assistant was selecting coffee beans in the store. "Italian beans and blended beans have to be manually selected again," the shop assistant said while chatting with the reporter.

During the interview, the reporter also discovered something even more special: this store does not place much emphasis on the concept of "manager". When the reporter asked if he could call the interviewee the main manager, the other side replied seriously: "The store never highlights a person, nor does it have the so-called concept of manager. The store has a boss, but all the staff who make coffee are co partners. This is a place where coffee is purely made. For example, some friends in the industry want to adjust their status (GAP) in the busy work space, and can also join us. It is precisely because we only want to do a good job in coffee that our store has been open until now, and there is only one store. ”

At present, chain brands are accelerating their expansion, and the living space of independent small shops is constantly being squeezed. In Shanghai, many coffee shops have already shifted their competition towards special adjustments, collaborations, and check-in scenes. In such an environment, the insistence of "only opening one store" on Bajiaoyu seems somewhat "unconventional". However, this alternative is not deliberately unconventional, but more like a clear self positioning. It does not pursue scale, does not create topics, and even does not highlight personal brands. When many independent small shops are wavering between traffic and scale, Bajiaoyu chooses to focus on a cup of coffee and a group of old customers, allowing this small shop to find its place in the crowded market and preserve the island like quietness in the hustle and bustle. The city is big and there are many coffee shops, but a quiet island will always be found by those who need it.

Reporter/Zhang Ziyi

Editor/Liu Yunwen

Image/Zhang Ziyi, a netizen on Xiaohongshu