一颗豆串联山海情——云县咖啡产业的逆袭与共富之路A Bean Connecting Mountains and Seas - The Reversal and Common Prosperity Path of Yunxian Coffee Industry
标准化咖啡烘炒车间。通讯员 沈仕春 字德福 摄
在云县的咖啡种植园里，一颗颗饱满的咖啡果在绿叶间泛着红润的光泽。这片地处黄金咖啡种植带的土地，正经历着一场从粗放散养到精品突围的产业变革。变革的背后，是一条横跨3000公里的山海协作纽带——沪滇协作。
“以前我们种咖啡，收了豆子就卖给收购商，价格低，品质好坏也分不出来。”云县爱华镇永胜村的咖农张思军回忆起过去，语气中带着无奈。云县虽然拥有得天独厚的自然禀赋，但咖啡产业长期面临种植零散、加工粗放、品牌附加值低的困境。
改变始于沪滇协作的精准发力。上海帮扶资金投向了最急需的基础设施建设——在永胜村建成标准化初加工厂房与专业品鉴中心，购置现代化的全自动加工设备，构建起一体化加工体系。这不仅彻底改变了散户粗加工的历史，更让优质不优价的困局出现了转机。同时，“合作社+基地+农户+村集体”的发展模式让咖农成为了产业升级的参与者。
上海的市场、技术、资金与云南的优质原料、生态优势，在云县咖啡产业中进行了精准对接。上海农业龙头企业带来的先进生产加工技术，补齐了加工短板；而“持旭咖啡”这一本土品牌的精心打造，则让云县咖啡具备了市场竞争力。
“我们不仅卖豆子，更要卖品牌、卖文化。”云县咖啡产业相关负责人表示。通过上海广阔的市场渠道，云县精品咖啡成功进驻一线城市消费市场，产品常年供不应求。2025年，云县咖啡产业综合产值突破3.7亿元，同比增长86.13％，实现跨越式高质量发展。
在云县，咖啡产业不仅是一张经济名片，更是一条联农富农的“金色纽带”。通过创新的“三金”增收模式——土地流转租金、务工薪金、产业分红，600余户咖农实现稳定致富，户均年增收超5000元。
“现在在基地干活，一个月能挣三四千元，还能照顾家里。”在咖啡基地务工的留守妇女李翠花笑着说。产业基地常年提供固定就业岗位，旺季吸纳大量本地劳动力务工，年均发放务工工资30余万元。
值得关注的是，产业配套设施产权归村集体所有，每年可为村集体增收20万元以上，收益全部用于乡村基础设施升级和公益事业发展。从“外部输血”到“自主造血”，云县咖啡产业为东西部协作助力乡村振兴提供了可复制的“云县样本”。
如今，云县已建成自有标准化种植基地1300亩、托管基地6500余亩，全县咖啡种植总面积达5.59万亩，覆盖近5万农户，形成临沧市连片规模最大的标准化咖啡种植片区。
云县咖啡的逆袭之路，正是中国东西部协作、乡村振兴战略在高原特色农业领域的生动实践。
云报全媒体记者 李春林 杨富东 通讯员 沈仕春 字德福
（云南网）
Standardized coffee roasting workshop. Correspondent Shen Shichun, styled Defu, photographed
In the coffee plantation in Yun County, plump coffee fruits shine red among the green leaves. This land, located in the golden coffee planting belt, is undergoing an industrial transformation from extensive free range farming to boutique breakthroughs. Behind the change is a mountain sea cooperation link spanning 3000 kilometers - the Shanghai Yunnan cooperation.
In the past, we grew coffee and sold the beans to buyers at a low price, making it difficult to distinguish between good and bad quality. "Zhang Sijun, a coffee farmer from Yongsheng Village, Aihua Town, Yun County, recalled the past with a tone of helplessness. Although Yun County has unique natural endowments, the coffee industry has long faced difficulties such as scattered planting, extensive processing, and low brand added value.
The change began with the precise efforts of Shanghai Yunnan cooperation. The Shanghai assistance funds have been invested in the most urgently needed infrastructure construction - building standardized initial processing plants and professional tasting centers in Yongsheng Village, purchasing modern fully automatic processing equipment, and building an integrated processing system. This not only completely changed the history of individual investors' rough processing, but also brought about a turning point in the dilemma of high quality and low price. At the same time, the development model of "cooperatives+bases+farmers+village collectives" has made coffee farmers a participant in industrial upgrading.
The market, technology, and capital of Shanghai have been precisely matched with the high-quality raw materials and ecological advantages of Yunnan in the coffee industry of Yun County. The advanced production and processing technology brought by Shanghai's leading agricultural enterprises has filled the gaps in processing; The careful creation of the local brand "Chixu Coffee" has given Yunxian Coffee market competitiveness.
We not only sell beans, but also brand and culture, "said the person in charge of the coffee industry in Yun County. Through the vast market channels in Shanghai, Yunxian premium coffee has successfully entered the consumer market in first tier cities, with products consistently in short supply. By 2025, the comprehensive output value of the coffee industry in Yun County will exceed 370 million yuan, a year-on-year increase of 86.13%, achieving leapfrog high-quality development.
In Yun County, the coffee industry is not only an economic card, but also a "golden link" that connects farmers and enriches them. Through the innovative "three funds" income increasing model - land transfer rent, labor wages, and industry dividends, more than 600 coffee farmers have achieved stable prosperity, with an average annual income increase of over 5000 yuan per household.
Now working at the base, I can earn three to four thousand yuan a month and take care of my family, "said Li Cuihua, a left behind woman working at the coffee base, with a smile. The industrial base provides fixed employment opportunities throughout the year and absorbs a large number of local laborers during peak seasons, with an average annual wage of over 300000 yuan.
It is worth noting that the property rights of industrial supporting facilities belong to the village collective, which can increase the annual income of the village collective by more than 200000 yuan, and all the proceeds will be used for the upgrading of rural infrastructure and the development of public welfare undertakings. From "external blood transfusion" to "independent hematopoiesis", the coffee industry in Yun County provides a replicable "Yun County sample" for the cooperation between the east and the west to help rural revitalization.
Nowadays, Yun County has built its own standardized planting base of 1300 acres and entrusted base of over 6500 acres. The total coffee planting area in the county reaches 55900 acres, covering nearly 50000 farmers, forming the largest standardized coffee planting area in Lincang City.
The counterattack of Yunxian Coffee is a vivid practice of China's east-west cooperation and rural revitalization strategy in the field of plateau characteristic agriculture.
Yunbao Full Media Reporter Li Chunlin Yang Fudong Correspondent Shen Shichun styled Defu
(Yunnan Network)