南博十年·链动世界|从原料到品牌:一杯保山咖啡的“精品化破局”Ten Years of Nanbo · Chain World - From Raw Materials to Brand: A Cup of Baoshan Coffee's "Boutique Breakthrough"

2026-06-06 17:00:17 admin 1001
央广网保山6月6日消息(记者 赵贝贝)清晨,怒江峡谷雾气弥漫。53岁的“咖叔”李金合在双虹桥边的路边咖啡馆点燃喷枪,虹吸壶内的咖啡粉随沸水翻动,氤氲咖香弥漫散开。这种独特的“火烧咖啡”萃取方式走红网络,吸引了众多游客以及咖啡爱好者前来“打卡”。
而在怒江下游的潞江镇新寨村,村党总支书记邵维宾也正忙着筹备即将到来的南博会。“我们村集体成立了新咖农旅发展公司,有一款名为‘支书咖啡’的产品计划在南博会展示。”邵维宾说。
从李金合的路边咖啡馆到新寨村的万亩咖啡林,从传统粗放种植到精品化、品牌化转型,保山小粒咖啡正在走出一条“精品化破局”之路。而南博会,正成为这杯云南咖啡链动世界的重要窗口。
图片关键词
远眺新寨村(央广网记者 赵贝贝 摄)
从“以量定价”到“向质图强”
新寨村西倚高黎贡山,东临怒江,属亚热带干热河谷气候,年平均气温21.5℃。全村502户、2082人,种植咖啡13600亩,被誉为“中国咖啡第一村”。但这座“第一村”也曾经历过阵痛。“以前老百姓种植咖啡都是以产量决定收入。”邵维宾告诉记者,过去咖农不关心品种,采收后统一按一般价格出售,“红果”“绿果”一起摘、一起烘,粗放式生产导致品质参差不齐,价格长期低迷。
转变始于2016年。新寨村开始提出发展精品咖啡,从种植端发力,构建“选、种、采、加”一体化发展模式。邵维宾介绍,村里引导咖农降低种植密度,一亩不超过300株,同时引进瑰夏、波旁、萨奇姆等产值较高的品种,目前良种覆盖率达98%。在采摘环节,推行分级采摘、分级定价、精细加工,严格把关质量。数据印证了变化:咖啡生豆价格从2016年的每公斤4元,提升至2025年的每公斤65元;咖啡精品率也从2021年的10%提升至2025年的80%,而2025年全村咖啡产值便达到了2.5亿元。
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刚结“绿果”的咖啡果树(央广网记者 赵贝贝 摄)
“以前最低迷的时候,一亩咖啡连300元的收入都没有。”李金合回忆道,现在他自家种植了100亩咖啡,还带动周边咖农共同提升品质。“只有走精品路线和高端路线,保山小粒咖啡才能得到发展。”
从“一粒豆子”到“一条链子”
精品化种植只是第一步。如何让这粒豆子产生更大价值?新寨村的答案是全链条重塑咖啡产业。
邵维宾介绍,村里坚持“一轴四环十个点”总体规划,布局建设10个精品咖啡庄园。目前,已建成集加工体验、文化展示、旅游观光、民宿度假为一体的精品咖啡庄园6个,其中1个入选云南省精品咖啡庄园。同时,新寨村探索出“村委会+企业+合作社+基地+农户”的“庄园+”经营发展模式,推动一二三产融合。
2025年,全村接待游客达26万人次,同比增长20%,成功创建国家3A级旅游景区。在产业链延伸方面,新寨村注册了“支书咖啡”品牌,开发烘焙豆、挂耳咖啡、冻干粉等10余种产品。村党总支牵头成立“保山新咖农旅发展有限责任公司”,推动“资源变资产、村民变股民”,502户农户全部被带入产业链。
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满脸笑容展示咖啡豆的“咖叔”李金合(央广网发 杨磊 摄)
而李金合则用一把喷枪“烧”出了自己的品牌。从最初用酒精灯慢慢熬煮,到后来尝试用喷枪快速萃取,他花了近半年时间、烧烂了50多个虹吸壶,才形成了稳定的“火烧咖啡”制作体系。“许多专业人士来品鉴,都认可我的做法——它确实比酒精烧制得更好吃,酸、苦、醇、纯度都很高。”李金合说,这种独特的萃取方式兼顾了视觉和味觉体验,吸引了众多游客慕名而来。目前,来自全国各地的咖啡师都上门找李金合拜师学艺。“不要保守、藏着掖着,靠一个人推介不了高黎贡山的豆子,这件事要靠更多人来努力。”
从“深山瑰宝”到“世界咖香”
保山小粒咖啡的精品化转型,正在从个例走向产业共识。
潞江镇地处北纬24°的“中国咖啡心脏”,种植国家地理标志产品“保山小粒咖啡”8.65万亩,年产优质咖啡豆1.53万吨,农业产值超10亿元,全产业链产值突破60亿元。25%的咖啡豆通过有机认证,成为众多咖啡国际品牌的优质原料基地。2024年,“保山小粒咖啡”种植面积14.49万亩,产量2.42万吨,综合产值达90.68亿元,咖啡精品率提高到70%、精深加工率提高到85%。
南博会,成为保山咖啡对外展示的重要平台。邵维宾告诉记者,今年村里的一些种植大户自发性地到南博会展示产品,“我们希望国内外的咖啡爱好者和经销商到新寨村来,了解我们的咖啡产业。”
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咖农采摘咖啡鲜果(央广网发 隆阳区委宣传部供图)
与此同时,李金合也准备带上两款咖啡产品参会。他曾代表保山蜂蜜参加南博会,如今身份从养蜂大户转变为咖啡推广者。“当年保山小粒咖啡就是在潞江坝种植,我们需要更多的咖啡爱好者,包括中国和世界各地的,来到保山了解、品鉴保山小粒咖啡、云南咖啡。”
从新寨村的万亩咖啡林到李金合的路边咖啡馆,从传统种植到精品化、品牌化转型,从原料输出到全产业链发展,一杯保山咖啡的“精品化破局”,折射出中国咖啡产业从“种得好”向“卖得好”、从“原料基地”向“品牌高地”的跨越。而南博会这扇开放之门,正让这缕高原咖香飘向更远的世界。

On the morning of June 6th, the Nujiang Canyon was shrouded in mist, according to the news from CCTV Baoshan (Reporter Zhao Beibei). 53 year old 'Uncle Coffee' Li Jinhe lit a spray gun at a roadside caf é by Shuanghong Bridge, causing the coffee powder in the siphon pot to stir with the boiling water, and the misty aroma of coffee to spread out. This unique "roasted coffee" extraction method has become popular on the internet, attracting numerous tourists and coffee enthusiasts to come and "check in".

In Xinzhai Village, Lujiang Town, downstream of the Nu River, the village party secretary Shao Weibin is also busy preparing for the upcoming South China International Fair. Our village has collectively established a new coffee agricultural tourism development company, and a product called 'Branch Secretary Coffee' is planned to be showcased at the South China International Fair, "said Shao Weibin.

From Li Jinhe's roadside caf é to the 10000 acre coffee forest in Xinzhai Village, from traditional extensive cultivation to boutique and brand transformation, Baoshan Xiaoli Coffee is embarking on a path of "breaking through the monopoly of boutique". The South China International Fair is becoming an important window for Yunnan coffee to connect the world.

Overlooking Xinzhai Village (Photo by Zhao Beibei, a reporter from China National Radio)

From 'pricing by quantity' to 'striving for strength through quality'

Xinzhai Village is located to the west of Gaoligong Mountain and to the east of Nujiang River. It belongs to a subtropical dry and hot valley climate with an average annual temperature of 21.5 ℃. There are 502 households and 2082 people in the village, planting 13600 acres of coffee, known as the "Number One Coffee Village in China". But this' first village 'has also experienced pain. In the past, the income of ordinary people growing coffee was determined by the yield, "Shao Weibin told reporters. In the past, coffee farmers did not care about the variety, and sold them at the general price after harvesting. The" red fruit "and" green fruit "were picked and baked together, and the extensive production led to uneven quality and long-term low prices.

The transformation began in 2016. Xinzhai Village has begun to propose the development of premium coffee, focusing on planting and building an integrated development model of "selection, planting, harvesting, and adding". Shao Weibin introduced that the village is guiding coffee farmers to reduce planting density, with no more than 300 plants per acre, and at the same time introducing high-yield varieties such as Guixia, Bourbon, and Sachim. Currently, the coverage rate of good varieties has reached 98%. In the picking process, implement graded picking, graded pricing, and fine processing, and strictly control the quality. The data confirms the changes: the price of green coffee beans has increased from 4 yuan per kilogram in 2016 to 65 yuan per kilogram in 2025; The coffee premium rate has also increased from 10% in 2021 to 80% in 2025, and the total coffee output value of the village will reach 250 million yuan in 2025.

A coffee fruit tree that has just produced "green fruit" (Photo by Zhao Beibei, a reporter from China National Radio)

At the lowest point in the past, one acre of coffee didn't even earn 300 yuan in income, "Li Jinhe recalled. Now that he has grown 100 acres of coffee himself, he has also driven surrounding coffee farmers to improve the quality together. Only by taking the boutique and high-end routes can Baoshan Small Grain Coffee achieve development

From 'a bean' to 'a chain'

High quality cultivation is just the first step. How to make this bean generate greater value? The answer for Xinzhai Village is to reshape the entire coffee industry chain.

Shao Weibin introduced that the village adheres to the overall plan of "one axis, four rings, and ten points", and plans to build 10 boutique coffee plantations. At present, six boutique coffee estates have been built, integrating processing experience, cultural exhibition, tourism and sightseeing, and homestay vacation. One of them has been selected as a boutique coffee estate in Yunnan Province. At the same time, Xinzhai Village has explored the "manor+" business development model of "village committee+enterprise+cooperative+base+farmers", promoting the integration of primary, secondary and tertiary industries.

By 2025, the village will receive 260000 tourists, a year-on-year increase of 20%, and successfully create a national 3A level tourist attraction. In terms of extending the industrial chain, Xinzhai Village has registered the "Branch Secretary Coffee" brand and developed more than 10 products including roasted beans, hanging ear coffee, freeze-dried powder, etc. The village party branch took the lead in establishing the "Baoshan Xinka Agricultural Tourism Development Co., Ltd." to promote the transformation of "resources into assets and villagers into shareholders", and all 502 households were brought into the industrial chain.

Li Jinhe, the "Uncle Coffee" with a smile on his face, displays coffee beans (photographed by Yang Lei on China National Radio)

And Li Jinhe used a spray gun to "burn" his own brand. From slowly boiling with an alcohol lamp at the beginning, to later attempting to extract quickly with a spray gun, he spent nearly half a year and burned more than 50 siphon pots to form a stable "fire coffee" production system. Many professionals come to taste it and recognize my method - it is indeed tastier than alcohol, with high acidity, bitterness, richness, and purity, "said Li Jinhe. This unique extraction method combines visual and gustatory experiences, attracting many tourists to come and admire it. At present, baristas from all over the country are coming to visit Li Jinhe to learn from him. Don't be conservative or keep things hidden. One person can't recommend the beans from Gaoligong Mountain alone. This matter requires more people to work hard

From 'Mountain Treasures' to' World Coffee Fragrance '

The boutique transformation of Baoshan small grain coffee is moving from an isolated case to an industry consensus.

Lujiang Town is located in the "heart of Chinese coffee" at 24 ° N latitude, with 86500 acres of national geographical indication product "Baoshan small grain coffee" planted. It produces 15300 tons of high-quality coffee beans annually, with an agricultural output value exceeding 1 billion yuan and a total industry chain output value exceeding 6 billion yuan. 25% of coffee beans have passed organic certification, becoming a high-quality raw material base for many international coffee brands. In 2024, the planting area of "Baoshan Small Grain Coffee" will be 144900 mu, with a yield of 24200 tons and a comprehensive output value of 9.068 billion yuan. The coffee quality rate will increase to 70% and the deep processing rate will increase to 85%.

The South China International Fair has become an important platform for Baoshan Coffee to showcase its products to the public. Shao Weibin told reporters that some large-scale growers in the village spontaneously exhibited their products at the South China International Fair this year. "We hope that coffee enthusiasts and distributors from home and abroad can come to Xinzhai Village to learn about our coffee industry

Coffee farmers picking fresh coffee fruits (photo provided by the Propaganda Department of Longyang District Committee, China National Radio and Television Network)

At the same time, Li Jinhe is also preparing to bring two coffee products to the conference. He once represented Baoshan Honey at the South China International Fair, but now his identity has changed from a beekeeper to a coffee promoter. Back then, Baoshan small grain coffee was grown in Lujiangba. We need more coffee enthusiasts, including those from China and around the world, to come to Baoshan to learn about and taste Baoshan small grain coffee and Yunnan coffee

From the 10000 acre coffee forest in Xinzhai Village to Li Jinhe's roadside caf é, from traditional planting to boutique and brand transformation, from raw material output to the development of the entire industry chain, the "boutique breakthrough" of a cup of Baoshan coffee reflects the leap of China's coffee industry from "well planted" to "selling well", from "raw material base" to "brand highland". The South China International Fair, as an open door, is allowing this scent of plateau coffee to drift further into the world.

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