共话中国经济新机遇丨通讯：一杯巴拿马瑰夏见证中巴咖啡合作新图景Discussing New Opportunities for China's Economy - Communication: A Cup of Panama's Summer Witnesss a New Landscape of China Pakistan Coffee Cooperation
8月1日，在巴拿马奇里基省博克特地区举行的第30届“巴拿马最佳咖啡”大赛上，埃莉达庄园的咖啡豆摘得水洗瑰夏咖啡组冠军。新华社记者 李佳旭 摄
“中国是巴拿马瑰夏咖啡最好的市场。”巴拿马埃莉达庄园负责人威尔福德·拉马斯图斯说，“那里有懂行又热情的消费者，愿意了解瑰夏咖啡，也愿意钻研如何更好地烘焙、研磨和冲煮。正因如此，生产者与消费者得以相互理解、共同成长。”
近日，在巴拿马奇里基省博克特地区落下帷幕的第30届“巴拿马最佳咖啡”大赛上，埃莉达庄园的咖啡豆摘得水洗瑰夏咖啡组冠军，拉马斯图斯兴奋地说要和中国朋友一起庆祝这场胜利。在他看来，正是得益于中国市场对瑰夏咖啡品质与风味的高标准，巴拿马咖啡生产者才能够在瑰夏咖啡豆的精细化处理上不断进步，一次次味蕾上的“双向奔赴”，令巴拿马瑰夏咖啡更加闪耀。
7月30日，国际评委在巴拿马奇里基省博克特地区举办的第30届“巴拿马最佳咖啡”大赛上讨论杯测结果。新华社记者 李佳旭 摄
瑰夏是源自埃塞俄比亚的咖啡品种，上世纪60、70年代引入巴拿马后由翡翠庄园培育成名，以其浓郁花香和明亮果酸而闻名，曾多次刷新咖啡拍卖单价纪录。如今，瑰夏咖啡等高品质咖啡已发展成为巴拿马的重要产业之一。
近年来，中巴两国间咖啡贸易与合作不断深化，巴拿马咖啡对华出口增长显著。联合国商品贸易统计数据库的数据显示，巴拿马对华咖啡出口额在2018年至2025年间大幅增长。2025年，中国已成为巴拿马咖啡第一大出口市场。
7月30日，国际评委在巴拿马奇里基省博克特地区举办的第30届“巴拿马最佳咖啡”大赛上讨论杯测结果。新华社记者 李佳旭 摄
巴拿马翡翠庄园咖啡总监蕾切尔·彼德松告诉记者，中国市场始终是推动巴拿马咖啡生产者前进的重要动力，“没有哪里能像中国市场一样提供如此广阔的机遇”。
记者看到，在本届“巴拿马最佳咖啡”大赛间隙或庄园杯测之余，来自中国的咖啡业者不时举起手机，将镜头对准咖啡庄园、处理厂乃至庄园主，通过短视频向国内消费者介绍咖啡产区、批次与风味。产地端的杯测几乎可以同步抵达中国市场。
7月30日，在巴拿马奇里基省博克特地区举办的第30届“巴拿马最佳咖啡”大赛上，国际评委对咖啡进行杯测。新华社记者 李佳旭 摄
现货采购之外，中国庞大的消费市场和日益成熟的咖啡产业链，正推动中巴咖啡合作向生产环节不断延伸。拉马斯图斯说，来自中国云南的研究人员曾来到巴拿马，与庄园交流咖啡豆处理新思路，巴拿马咖啡生产者也会借鉴中国的研究成果。庄园还将瑰夏咖啡种子出口到中国，一些种子已在当地培育成咖啡树。
咖啡业者彭近洋来自中国贵阳，十多年前开始与巴拿马多个庄园深度合作。“每年处理季前，我们会到巴拿马与庄园主面对面沟通，有针对性地就咖啡豆的处理提出要求，生产过程中还会通过电子邮件持续交流，成品出来后再派杯测师到当地验收、讨论。我们也会把中国在发酵研究和实践中的经验与庄园分享。”
7月30日，在巴拿马奇里基省博克特地区举办的第30届“巴拿马最佳咖啡”大赛上，国际评委对咖啡进行杯测。新华社记者 李佳旭 摄
本届“巴拿马最佳咖啡”大赛主评委范典注意到，越来越多中国买家开始在咖啡豆处理环节之前就前往巴拿马，与庄园沟通、定制批次。巴拿马咖啡庄园主也会频繁前往中国走访咖啡馆、烘焙商和买家，让市场对咖啡豆处理方式以及风味的反馈更直接地体现在生产环节。
展望未来，范典认为，随着中国消费者的需求进一步细分，规模更小、划分更精细的微批次和定制批次咖啡将更多进入中国市场，中巴咖啡合作也将继续向生产和技术环节深入。随着市场信息、生产经验和技术能力在两国之间双向流动，中巴正由咖啡贸易伙伴向更深层次的产业合作伙伴迈进。
8月1日，在巴拿马奇里基省博克特地区举办的第30届“巴拿马最佳咖啡”大赛上，国际评委对咖啡进行杯测。新华社记者 李佳旭 摄
这是7月31日在巴拿马奇里基省博克特地区的埃莉达庄园拍摄的等待杯测的水洗瑰夏咖啡豆。新华社记者 李佳旭 摄
7月31日，在巴拿马奇里基省博克特地区的埃莉达庄园，咖啡从业者记录杯测结果。新华社记者 李佳旭 摄
7月31日，在巴拿马奇里基省博克特地区的埃莉达庄园，咖啡从业者讨论杯测感受。新华社记者 李佳旭 摄
On August 1st, at the 30th "Panama's Best Coffee" competition held in the Bockett area of Chiriqui Province, Panama, the coffee beans from Elida Estate won the championship in the washed Guixia coffee category. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Li Jiaxu
China is the best market for Panama's Guixia coffee, "said Wilford Lamastus, the head of Panama's Elida estate." There are knowledgeable and enthusiastic consumers there who are willing to learn about Guixia coffee and explore how to better roast, grind, and brew it. That's why producers and consumers can understand each other and grow together
Recently, at the 30th "Best Coffee of Panama" competition held in the Bockett area of Chiriqui Province, Panama, the coffee beans from Elida Estate won the championship in the washed Guixia coffee category. Lamastus excitedly said that he would celebrate this victory with his Chinese friends. In his opinion, it is precisely thanks to the high standards of quality and flavor set by the Chinese market for Guixia coffee that Panamanian coffee producers are able to continuously improve in the fine processing of Guixia coffee beans, with each taste buds' "two-way rush", making Panamanian Guixia coffee even more brilliant.
On July 30th, international judges discussed the cup test results at the 30th "Panama's Best Coffee" competition held in the Bocht area of Chiriqui Province, Panama. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Li Jiaxu
Guixia is a coffee variety originating from Ethiopia. After being introduced to Panama in the 1960s and 1970s, it was cultivated by Emerald Manor and became famous for its rich floral aroma and bright fruit acid. It has repeatedly broken records for coffee auction prices. Nowadays, high-quality coffee such as Guixia Coffee has developed into one of the important industries in Panama.
In recent years, coffee trade and cooperation between China and Pakistan have continued to deepen, with significant growth in Panamanian coffee exports to China. According to the United Nations Commodity Trade Statistics Database, Panama's coffee exports to China have significantly increased between 2018 and 2025. By 2025, China has become the largest export market for Panamanian coffee.
On July 30th, international judges discussed the cup test results at the 30th "Panama's Best Coffee" competition held in the Bocht area of Chiriqui Province, Panama. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Li Jiaxu
Rachel Pedersen, the coffee director of Panama Emerald Estate, told reporters that the Chinese market has always been an important driving force for Panama's coffee producers to move forward, and "there is no place that can provide such vast opportunities as the Chinese market".
The reporter saw that during the interval of this year's "Panama's Best Coffee" competition or in addition to the estate cup test, coffee industry players from China often hold up their phones and aim their cameras at coffee estates, processing plants, and even estate owners, introducing coffee production areas, batches, and flavors to domestic consumers through short videos. The cup testing at the origin end can almost simultaneously reach the Chinese market.
On July 30th, at the 30th "Panama's Best Coffee" competition held in the Bockett area of Chiriqui Province, Panama, international judges conducted cup tests on coffee. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Li Jiaxu
In addition to spot purchases, China's vast consumer market and increasingly mature coffee industry chain are driving the continuous extension of China Pakistan coffee cooperation to the production process. Lamastus said that researchers from Yunnan, China have come to Panama to exchange new ideas on coffee bean processing with the plantation, and Panamanian coffee producers will also learn from Chinese research results. The estate also exports Guixia coffee seeds to China, and some seeds have been cultivated into coffee trees locally.
Coffee entrepreneur Peng Jinyang comes from Guiyang, China and began deep cooperation with multiple estates in Panama more than a decade ago. Every year before the processing season, we go to Panama to have face-to-face communication with the plantation owners, and make targeted requirements for the processing of coffee beans. During the production process, we continue to communicate through email, and after the finished product is produced, we send cup testers to the local area for inspection and discussion. We also share China's experience in fermentation research and practice with the plantation
On July 30th, at the 30th "Panama's Best Coffee" competition held in the Bockett area of Chiriqui Province, Panama, international judges conducted cup tests on coffee. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Li Jiaxu
The main judge of this year's "Best Coffee in Panama" competition, Fan Dian, noticed that more and more Chinese buyers are starting to go to Panama before the coffee bean processing stage to communicate with the estate and customize batches. Panama coffee plantation owners also frequently visit coffee shops, roasters, and buyers in China, allowing market feedback on coffee bean processing methods and flavors to be more directly reflected in the production process.
Looking ahead, Fan Dian believes that as the demand of Chinese consumers is further segmented, smaller and more finely divided micro batches and customized batches of coffee will enter the Chinese market, and the cooperation between China and Pakistan Coffee will continue to deepen into production and technology. With the two-way flow of market information, production experience, and technological capabilities between the two countries, China and Pakistan are moving from coffee trading partners to deeper industrial cooperation partners.
On August 1st, at the 30th "Panama's Best Coffee" competition held in the Bockett area of Chiriqui Province, Panama, international judges conducted cup tests on coffee. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Li Jiaxu
This is a photo taken on July 31st at the Elida Estate in the Bockett area of Chiriqui Province, Panama, of washed Guixia coffee beans waiting for cup testing. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Li Jiaxu
On July 31st, coffee practitioners recorded cup test results at the Elida Estate in the Bockett area of Chiriqui Province, Panama. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Li Jiaxu
On July 31st, at the Elida Estate in the Bockett area of Chiriqui Province, Panama, coffee practitioners discussed cupping sensations. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Li Jiaxu