一杯来自中国的咖啡，靠什么在海外“圈粉”？What makes a cup of coffee from China popular overseas?
中新网上海4月19日电 题：一杯来自中国的咖啡，靠什么在海外“圈粉”？
中新网记者李佳佳
“咖啡这个果实凭什么有文化？”当上海市科学与艺术学会副理事长朱琪抛出这个问题时，采访间里的人都笑了。他的答案是：咖啡不争宠，本身够苦，苦是它的坚持；咖啡有自己的胸怀，可与各种食材融合；咖啡来自不同烘焙和梅纳反应，自我迭代的要求构成了它不断创新的方式。
“从开放到包容到创新，咖啡的这三个品德，恰恰与上海的城市品格相辅相成。”朱琪说。
这番话发生在陆家嘴国际咖啡文化节总策划陈败的办公室里，今年4月，这个诞生于浦东的咖啡节第二次走出国门，登陆巴黎。
2026巴黎咖啡节“遇见中国”专区，充满东方风味的精品咖啡品牌，深受外国客人喜爱。陆家嘴国际咖啡文化节组委会供图
十年之路：从24个品牌到咖啡之城
2016年，当陈败决定在浦东陆家嘴创办咖啡节时，中国的精品咖啡市场尚处萌芽期。
第一届咖啡节在黄浦江边举办，只有24个品牌，真正的精品咖啡屈指可数。当时有人问他：为什么要做户外？陈败回答：“我希望能提供一个社交场景，能坐下来聊天，能在阳光下喝一杯咖啡。”
10年后，上海已成为全球咖啡馆最多的城市。而依托浦东的开放与制度创新优势，陆家嘴也成为中国咖啡店密度最高、消费最旺、文化氛围最浓的区域之一。122幢商务楼宇、30万白领、每年超1400万人次的客流，让这里成为国际品牌进入中国的“第一站”和“首秀场”。
陈败把这十年的变化归结为几个阶段：最初是“请进来”，让国人看到咖啡的多样性；然后是“长出来”，中国本土品牌开始萌芽生长；到了现在，他觉得是时候“走出去”了。
首抵伦敦：一场意外的“圈粉”
2025年，咖啡节第一次走出国门，选择了伦敦。
“其实当时心里是没底的。”陈败坦言。结果出人意料。伦敦咖啡节上，中国品牌的展位前大排长龙。白鲸咖啡带去了在上海烘焙的云南精品咖啡豆；西藏的柠渡咖啡用牦牛渣做了一款特调；上海牛牛咖啡则带去了中国制造的磨豆机，伦敦国王车站附近的一家咖啡馆老板当场下单，更有中国专业全自动咖啡设备科技企业CAYE咖爷科技签下订单超千万元。
“老外看到我们的东西，说得最多的一句话就是‘very good’。”白鲸咖啡创始人路摇回忆道。他从推着小三轮车登上第一届咖啡节起步，如今已拥有自己的咖啡烘焙工厂。
上海牛牛咖啡联合创始人梁梓文则经历了从“引进来”到“带出去”的转变。“在伦敦，我们带去了国内品牌linkbar。同样性能的意大利品牌可能要卖到10万元，我们的价格只需要一半。”他感慨道，“这十年，我见证了中国咖啡行业的变化。”
巴黎咖啡节现场，外国客人正在品鉴来自中国云南的精品咖啡。 陆家嘴国际咖啡文化节组委会供图
登陆巴黎：走进咖啡的“精神故乡”
今年4月，咖啡节带着约10个中国本土品牌登陆巴黎。
“巴黎是咖啡的‘精神故乡’吗？不一定。”陈败笑着说，“但法国是咖啡文化的重要一极。去巴黎，意味着我们有底气和他们对话。”
陈败把这次出行定义为“走进去”——如果说去年的伦敦是试探，那么今年就是真正地走进欧洲腹地。“没有压力是不可能的，但也是自信满满。”这份自信源自十年间中国咖啡的变化：从云南的在地风味，到西藏的牦牛渣特调，再到层出不穷的“咖啡+”创意。在陆家嘴咖啡节上，甚至出现过山西老陈醋咖啡、广州煲仔咖啡、成都麻辣咖啡……
“中国有那么多的城市，每个城市都有自己的在地文化，这些文化取之不尽，正是中国咖啡最独特的竞争力。”陈败说，“我希望通过咖啡这个载体，让外国人看到中国文化的快速崛起。”
未来畅想：中国咖啡被看见、被欣赏
在位于浦东的陆家嘴咖啡文化产业中心，陈列着奥运冠军许昕签名的乒乓球拍——这是去年伦敦之行的纪念。作为咖啡节合作方，许昕在伦敦现场打起了乒乓球，掀起一波热潮。
“这个寓意特别好。”朱琪说。上世纪70年代，“乒乓外交”打开中美关系大门；如今，中国咖啡走向世界，似乎正在演绎新的故事。
从伦敦到巴黎，从试探到深入，中国咖啡正在寻找自己的位置。不是要取代谁，而是想被看见、被理解。
“咖啡本身只是一杯饮料，但它承载的是文化。”陈败说，“我们希望通过巴黎之行，让老外看到什么是中国咖啡——它不只是一杯饮品，它是中国文化和中国故事的载体。”
对于未来，陈败有一个更大的设想：“现在全球咖啡的风向标是意大利的米兰国际咖啡展。我希望10年后，这个舞台在中国，在上海，在浦东陆家嘴。”(完)
Shanghai, April 19th (Xinhua) -- How does a cup of coffee from China attract fans overseas?
Reporter Li Jiajia from China News Service
Why does coffee have culture as a fruit? "When Zhu Qi, Vice Chairman of the Shanghai Science and Art Society, asked this question, everyone in the interview room laughed. His answer is: coffee is not competitive, it is bitter enough, and bitterness is its persistence; Coffee has its own heart and can blend with various ingredients; Coffee comes from different roasters and Mena reactions, and the requirement for self iteration constitutes its constantly innovative approach.
From openness to inclusiveness to innovation, these three virtues of coffee complement the urban character of Shanghai, "said Zhu Qi.
This statement took place in the office of Chen Bai, the chief planner of the Lujiazui International Coffee Culture Festival. In April of this year, this coffee festival, which was born in Pudong, went abroad for the second time and landed in Paris.
The "Encounter China" section of the 2026 Paris Coffee Festival features boutique coffee brands with oriental flavors that are highly favored by foreign customers. Photo provided by the Organizing Committee of Lujiazui International Coffee Culture Festival
Ten Year Journey: From 24 Brands to Coffee City
In 2016, when Chen Bai decided to establish a coffee festival in Lujiazui, Pudong, China's premium coffee market was still in its infancy.
The first coffee festival was held by the Huangpu River, with only 24 brands and only a few truly boutique coffees. At that time, someone asked him: Why do we do outdoor activities? Chen Bai replied, "I hope to provide a social setting where you can sit down and chat, and have a cup of coffee in the sunshine
Ten years later, Shanghai has become the city with the most coffee shops in the world. Relying on Pudong's advantages of openness and institutional innovation, Lujiazui has also become one of the areas with the highest density of coffee shops, the most prosperous consumption, and the strongest cultural atmosphere in China. With 122 commercial buildings, 300000 white-collar workers, and over 14 million annual visitors, this place has become the "first stop" and "first runway" for international brands entering China.
Chen Bai summarized the changes in the past decade into several stages: initially, it was "inviting in" to show the diversity of coffee to the Chinese people; Then comes the 'growth out', where Chinese local brands begin to sprout and grow; Now, he feels it's time to 'go out'.
First Arrival in London: An Unexpected 'Circle of Fans'
In 2025, the coffee festival will go abroad for the first time and choose London.
Actually, I was unsure at that time, "Chen Bai admitted. The result was unexpected. At the London Coffee Festival, there was a long queue in front of the booths of Chinese brands. White Whale Coffee brought Yunnan specialty coffee beans roasted in Shanghai; Xizang's Ningdu Coffee has made a special flavor with yak dregs; Shanghai Niuniu Coffee brought a Chinese made grinder, and a caf é owner near King's Station in London placed an order on the spot. Chinese professional fully automatic coffee equipment technology company CAYE Coffee Technology also signed an order worth over ten million yuan.
The most common thing foreigners say when they see our things is' very good '. ”Lu Yao, founder of White Whale Coffee, recalled. He started by pushing a tricycle onto the first coffee festival and now owns his own coffee roasting factory.
Liang Ziwen, co-founder of Shanghai Niuniu Coffee, has undergone a transformation from "bringing in" to "bringing out". In London, we brought the domestic brand Linkbar. An Italian brand with the same performance may be sold for 100000 yuan, and our price is only half that. ”He sighed and said, "In the past decade, I have witnessed the changes in China's coffee industry
At the Paris Coffee Festival, foreign guests are tasting premium coffee from Yunnan, China. Photo provided by the Organizing Committee of Lujiazui International Coffee Culture Festival
Landing in Paris: Walking into the 'spiritual homeland' of coffee
In April this year, the coffee festival landed in Paris with about 10 local Chinese brands.
Is Paris the 'spiritual homeland' of coffee? Not necessarily, "Chen Bai said with a smile," but France is an important pole of coffee culture. Going to Paris means we have the confidence to talk to them
Chen defined this trip as' going in '- if London last year was a test, then this year is truly entering the heart of Europe. "It is impossible without pressure, but it is also full of confidence." This confidence stems from the changes of Chinese coffee in the past decade: from the local flavor of Yunnan, to the special flavor of yak dregs in Xizang, to the endless "coffee+" creativity. At the Lujiazui Coffee Festival, there were even Shanxi aged vinegar coffee, Guangzhou pot coffee, Chengdu spicy coffee
There are so many cities in China, each with its own local culture. These cultures are inexhaustible, which is the most unique competitiveness of Chinese coffee, "Chen Bai said." I hope to use coffee as a carrier to let foreigners see the rapid rise of Chinese culture
Future vision: Chinese coffee being seen and appreciated
At the Lujiazui Coffee Culture Industry Center in Pudong, there is a table tennis racket signed by Olympic champion Xu Xin on display - a commemoration of last year's trip to London. As a partner of the coffee festival, Xu Xin started playing table tennis on site in London, sparking a wave of enthusiasm.
This has a particularly good meaning, "Zhu Qi said. In the 1970s, "ping pong diplomacy" opened the door to Sino US relations; Nowadays, Chinese coffee is going global and seems to be telling a new story.
From London to Paris, from exploration to exploration, Chinese coffee is finding its place. Not to replace anyone, but to be seen and understood.
Coffee itself is just a beverage, but it carries culture, "Chen Bai said." We hope that through our trip to Paris, foreigners can see what Chinese coffee is - it's not just a drink, it's a carrier of Chinese culture and stories
For the future, Chen Bai has a bigger vision: "The current global coffee benchmark is the Milan International Coffee Show in Italy. I hope that in 10 years, this stage will be in China, in Shanghai, and in Lujiazui, Pudong