云南咖啡：有味，有为，才有位Yunnan coffee: Taste, presence, and place

最近，云南咖啡很火。

刚刚过去的全国两会，省委书记王宁在云南代表团开放日活动上向在场记者发出温暖邀请：熬夜赶稿，不妨喝一杯云南小粒咖啡，提提神，感受一下这种独特的风味。

从“藏在深山人未识”到“香飘两会成热词”，循着咖香回顾云南咖啡的出圈之路，可以品出：云南“咖位”，源于“有味”，成于“有为”。

游客喝咖啡看云海。图源：人民日报

先说“有味”，这是产业的立身之本。

曾几何时，云南咖啡不过是国际产业链上廉价的“代名词”，风味被忽视，价值被压低。

但今天，再品云南咖啡，入口是“浓而不苦，香而不烈，略带果酸”的独特风味。这舌尖上的改变，源于云南对每一颗豆子的科技赋能。从高海拔的精品种植，到精细化的发酵处理，再到在“卓越杯”盲测中拿下的高分，云南咖啡用“浓而不烈”的独特风味，赢得了大众认可。

这味道里，不仅有风土的馈赠，更有科技的含量。

再说“有为”，这是产业突围的现实路径。

有了好豆子，更要有好作为。云南咖啡不再端着“金饭碗”等饭吃，而是掀起了一场产业的“品质革命”。

在守正创新上，咖啡精品率从2021年的8%跃升至如今的41.7%，老树种结出了好豆子。

在全链升级上，精深加工率从5年前的20%提升至如今的85%，从豆子到杯子实现价值跃升。

在咖旅融合上，咖啡馆开进雪山、开进旅居村。游客、旅居者在体验“有一种叫云南的生活”时，享受到“左手咖啡右手茶”的惬意。

这一套组合拳打下来，效果有目共睹：云南咖啡产值逼近千亿，彻底摆脱了“增产不增收”的困局。

最后说“有位”，这是市场与民生的双重回响。

当“有味”遇上“有为”，“咖位”便随之而来。

这种“咖位”，赢得总书记点赞：“云南咖啡还是代表着中国的”。这句话是对这片土地上奋斗者最好的褒奖。

这种“咖位”，得到市场的认可：瑞幸、星巴克等抢着要，出口均价暴涨，远销40多个国家。

这种“咖位”，带着民生的温度：在“中国咖啡第一村”保山新寨村，2025年咖啡农业产值达2.5亿，村民人均收入超过4万元，是10多年前的15倍。咖啡成了“香甜事业”，让老百姓的日子有了幸福的回甘。

一杯云南咖啡，用独特风味告诉我们：在世界咖啡的版图上，位置从来不是天生的，而是靠自己一步一个脚印闯出来的。

这杯云咖，值得好好品一品。

Recently, Yunnan coffee has been very popular.

At the just concluded National People's Congress and Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference, Wang Ning, the Secretary of the Provincial Party Committee, extended a warm invitation to the reporters present at the Yunnan delegation's open day event: staying up late to catch up on the work, why not have a cup of Yunnan small grain coffee to refresh yourself and experience this unique flavor.

From "hidden in the deep mountains, unknown to people" to "fragrant and becoming a hot topic during the Two Sessions", following the path of Yunnan coffee's emergence, we can appreciate that Yunnan's "coffee spot" originated from "taste" and became "promising".

Tourists enjoy coffee and admire the sea of clouds. Image source: People's Daily

First of all, 'taste' is the foundation of the industry.

Once upon a time, Yunnan coffee was just a cheap "synonym" in the international industry chain, with its flavor ignored and its value suppressed.

But today, when tasting Yunnan coffee again, the unique flavor is "strong but not bitter, fragrant but not strong, with a slight acidity". The change on the tip of the tongue stems from Yunnan's technological empowerment of every bean. From high-quality cultivation at high altitudes, to refined fermentation treatment, and to high scores in the blind test of the "Excellence Cup", Yunnan coffee has won public recognition for its unique flavor of "strong but not strong".

In this taste, there is not only the gift of local customs, but also the content of technology.

Speaking of 'promising', this is the realistic path for the industry to break through.

With good beans, it's even more important to have good deeds. Yunnan coffee is no longer waiting for a "golden rice bowl" to eat, but has sparked a "quality revolution" in the industry.

In terms of maintaining integrity and innovation, the coffee premium rate has jumped from 8% in 2021 to 41.7% today, and old trees have produced good beans.

In the full chain upgrade, the deep processing rate has increased from 20% five years ago to 85% today, achieving a leap in value from beans to cups.

In terms of coffee tourism integration, coffee shops have entered snowy mountains and tourist villages. Tourists and travelers can enjoy the comfort of "coffee in the left hand and tea in the right hand" while experiencing a "life called Yunnan".

After this combination of punches, the effect is obvious: Yunnan's coffee output value is approaching 100 billion yuan, completely breaking free from the dilemma of "increasing production but not increasing income".

Finally, saying 'there is a place' is a dual response of the market and people's livelihood.

When 'taste' meets' achievement ',' position 'follows.

This "coffee spot" has won the praise of the General Secretary: "Yunnan coffee still represents China. This sentence is the best praise for the fighters on this land.

This kind of "coffee spot" has gained market recognition: Luckin Coffee, Starbucks, and others are vying for it, and the average export price has skyrocketed, exporting to more than 40 countries.

This kind of "coffee spot" carries the warmth of people's livelihood: in Baoshan Xinzhai Village, known as the "number one coffee village in China", the output value of coffee agriculture will reach 250 million yuan by 2025, and the per capita income of villagers will exceed 40000 yuan, which is 15 times that of more than 10 years ago. Coffee has become a 'sweet business', bringing happiness and sweetness back to the lives of ordinary people.

A cup of Yunnan coffee, with its unique flavor, tells us that on the map of world coffee, position is never innate, but is forged step by step.

This cup of cloud coffee is worth savoring.