乡遇·新村民丨陈爱言：在远景村，用一杯咖啡“唤醒”乡村四季的美好Rural Encounter · New Villager - Chen Aiyan: In Yuanjing Village, awaken the beauty of the four seasons in the countryside with a cup of coffee
初夏的上海乡村，总有意想不到的惊喜。
驱车驶入宝山区罗店镇的远景村，映入眼帘的是一片沁人心脾的绿与星星点点的彩色花朵。就在这片被林木与麦田环抱的静谧村落里，藏着一位“新村民”——cosee咖啡主理人陈爱言，大家都叫他“小言”。
见到小言时，他正站在那座由旧仓库改造而成的咖啡馆吧台后，不紧不慢地用手冲壶画着圈。午后的阳光透过他自己设计的落地窗，洒在水泥灰的地面和原木桌上，空气中弥漫着纯粹的咖啡香。窗外，是“框”在窗棂里的一幅田园油画；窗内，是一拨拨特地驱车赶来的老客人。
“我们这里没有糖，也没有酒。”小言递来一杯手冲咖啡，语气温和却笃定，“我只希望，来的人是真的对咖啡有兴趣。”
从广告导演到“宝山第一”
一场意外开启的咖啡人生
在做咖啡之前，小言的身份是广告片导演。十年的广告生涯，通宵达旦是常态，咖啡成了他离不开的伙伴。因为热爱，他从一个“一天喝十杯”的发烧友，慢慢扎进了咖啡的深海，跟着欧美、日本、中国台湾等地的老师学习萃取，后来甚至为大型连锁咖啡工厂做起了烘焙培训。
然而，真正让小言从幕后走到台前的，却是一场意外。2022年的一段时间，他被“焊”在了罗店那间原本只打算做咖啡豆买卖的小店里。不曾想，小店却因为老客人自发的“好评”悄然火了，曾冲上某点评平台宝山区咖啡厅口味榜、热门榜、专业榜第一名。
“第一个来拍的媒体是《解放日报》，说这里有一家很专业的咖啡店。”小言回忆道。紧接着，各路拍摄小组纷至沓来。更富戏剧性的是，在一次镇里组织的手冲比赛中，小言的团队竟然击败了对手高价请来的“五连冠”选手，一举夺冠。这下，原本冲着冠军去的粉丝们，全都跑来围观这个“黑马”——“原来是做咖啡培训的，难怪！”
名气有了，但小言的初心未变。他的经营哲学始终围绕着三个词：热情、专业、分享。“如果你不够专业，只是糊弄着做一杯咖啡，那就不叫专业。而分享是核心，如果我传递的知识能让你回家也做出一杯好咖啡，这个文化氛围就开始了。”
被村干部诚意打动进村开店
在春游季热潮中冷静“守门”
小言和远景村的缘分，始于一场漫长的“拉锯战”。彼时，远景村正谋划整体文旅开发，项目方看中了cosee咖啡自带流量的特质和极高的客户忠诚度，希望他能入驻。但小言看了一眼，只觉得“太荒了”。
“我刚来这里时，常常会一个人坐在台阶上待了一下午，几乎没有人，年轻人一个都没有，就看见一个大爷来这里走来走去。”小言笑道，他当时的想法是“先亏三年再说”。
之所以成为远景村的一员，小言直言道，自己是被远景村的村书记袁朱龙的真诚打动了。为了让小言成为远景村第一家商户，袁朱龙前后找了他不下七次，从租金减免说到未来规划，小言都没松口。真正打动他的，是一个下雨的夜晚。“那天我们在罗店古镇的老店快打烊了，但里面还坐满了喝咖啡、聊咖啡的老熟人。书记一看这场景，就认定了‘来你这里的人，是会跟着你走的’。”这份判断力和诚意，让小言决定先把培训、沙龙等活动搬过来，把这里当作一个“阵地”。
2025年3月“花神节”前夕，cosee远景村店开业，顾客盈门，村干部自发帮忙收银、擦桌子、扫地。“那天忙完，书记跑来问我有没有信心，我说，天天这样搞，我肯定有信心！”小言笑着回忆，但随即他又反过来安慰袁朱龙，户外业态有淡旺季，不用太担心，“没人也没事，我搞培训、搞活动。”
今年，上海乡村春游季的到来，让远景村彻底热闹了起来。油菜花田、卡丁车、小火车……各类业态吸引了大量家庭游客，店里常被挤得满满当当。然而，在这股热潮中，小言却保持着冷静与犀利。“媒体曝光的数据，都是在人最多的时候拍的。如果有勇气在工作日、下雨天来拍，可能就是另一番景象了。”在他看来，乡村振兴的意义，并不完全是让商家短期内赚多少钱，而是让乡村整体配套回归到完善状态，让年轻人能用一个相对较低的成本在这里生活、就业，为城市提供一个有韧性的“缓冲区”。
小言以自己的店为例，点出了客流激增后暴露出的“短板”：“最大的问题就是停车，老客人打电话问我有没有车位，我说没有，他就不来了。”此外，公共洗手间不足、指示导览牌缺失、缺少能让人不消费也能歇脚的公共休息区……这些“小事”，在小言看来，恰恰是留住人的关键。
从“一个人发呆”到被熟客围绕的“不自由”，小言在远景村更像一个“守门人”。他固执地筛选着与咖啡真正“有关”的客人。为此，他不在菜单上加茶饮，不卖讨好孩子的冰淇淋，更不会在晚上做酒来增加营收。“咖啡店早八晚九做酒，其实是一种无奈。但酒味和咖啡味混在一起，会毁了专业度。”他甚至“得罪”过想要糖包的阿姨，宁可建议她下次别来了，也要守住“本味”。“如果这里变成喧哗的聚会厅，那这个安静悠闲的空间就毁了。”
用一杯“本味”咖啡
与乡村共生长
这份近乎偏执的坚守，源自小言对咖啡专业的敬畏。他算过一笔账，一杯售价8元的美式，要想盈利，只能用成本极低的“回收豆”；而他店里一杯咖啡，仅豆子成本就可能高达8元。“我们挑选豆子是百里挑一，甚至千里挑一。好的咖啡是有‘颜值’的，是能让你一喝就想微笑的。”他指着窗外说，“如果因为我们的咖啡好，大家还愿意一直来，这便是让我觉得真正开心的事。”
在远景村扎根一年多，最让小言感动的，是当地干部的工作状态。“以前我对基层干部的印象，是喝茶看报。但来了罗店后发现完全不是这样。”他印象很深，周末的时候，大家也会来店里消费，但坐下来聊的仍然是工作，这里成了他们的“第二工位”。节假日客流高峰期，村干部还会在外面疏导交通，或者帮忙在吧台洗碗收银。
小言感慨道，“他们不像领导，更像是跟我们并肩干活的同事。我们这些商户，真的是被他们的热情推着往前走的。”
从春日的“花神节”到日常的经营，小言在这里投入的装修成本不小——从欧洲运来的真壁炉、一堵造价上万元的手砌石墙、四台单价不菲的磨豆机……这一切，都不是为了做一个“赚快钱”的村咖，而是为了真正扎根。“我原先计划亏三年，现在一年多，已经开始盈利了，比预想的要好。”小言望向窗外的树林，平静地说，“我觉得更有意义的是，这件事是要可持续的。我们现在要努力的，就是把自己的品质做好，让这个阵地，成为更多咖啡爱好者可以‘看见’的好味道。”
离开cosee咖啡店时，傍晚的微风拂过田野。咖啡馆里的灯光亮起，温暖而坚定。在“春游季”这场振兴乡村的交响乐中，小言和他的cosee咖啡，奏响的是一个关于专业、坚守与热爱的长音。它不是最高亢的，却可能是最悠扬的，吸引着真正懂得欣赏它的人，跨越山海，奔赴而来。这，或许就是一位“新村民”带给当地乡村最珍贵的礼物。
文字：施勰贇
编辑：黄倩欣
上观号作者：上海三农
In the countryside of Shanghai in early summer, there are always unexpected surprises.
Driving into Yuanjing Village in Luodian Town, Baoshan District, what catches the eye is a refreshing green and colorful flowers dotted with stars. In this peaceful village surrounded by trees and wheat fields, there is a "new villager" - Chen Aiyan, the manager of Cosee Coffee, whom everyone calls "Xiaoyan".
When he saw Xiaoyan, he was standing behind the bar of the coffee shop that had been transformed from an old warehouse, leisurely drawing circles with his hand around the pot. The afternoon sun shines through the french window designed by him and sprinkles on the cement floor and log table. The air is filled with pure coffee fragrance. Outside the window, there is a pastoral oil painting framed within the window frame; Inside the window, there were groups of old customers who had specially driven over.
We don't have sugar or alcohol here, "Xiaoyan handed over a cup of hand brewed coffee in a gentle but firm tone." I just hope that the people who come here are really interested in coffee
From advertising director to 'Baoshan No.1'
An Unexpected Opening of Coffee Life
Before making coffee, Xiaoyan worked as an advertising director. In his ten-year advertising career, staying up all night was the norm, and coffee became his indispensable companion. Because of his love, he gradually plunged into the deep sea of coffee from a fan who "drinks ten cups a day", followed teachers from Europe, America, Japan, Taiwan, China, China and other places to learn extraction, and later even started baking training for large chain coffee factories.
However, what truly brought Xiaoyan from behind the scenes to the forefront was an accident. For a period of time in 2022, he was "welded" to the small shop in Luodian that was originally only intended to do coffee bean trading. Unexpectedly, the small shop quietly became popular due to the spontaneous "positive reviews" of old customers, and once climbed to the top of the taste list, popular list, and professional list of Baoshan District Cafe on a certain review platform.
The first media outlet to come and shoot was the Liberation Daily, which said there was a very professional coffee shop here, "Xiaoyan recalled. Subsequently, various filming teams rushed in. Even more dramatic was that in a hand to hand competition organized by the town, Xiaoyan's team unexpectedly defeated the opponent's high priced "five peat" players and won the championship in one fell swoop. Now, the fans who were originally going for the championship all came to watch this' dark horse '-' So it's coffee training, no wonder! '
Having gained fame, Xiaoyan's original intention remains unchanged. His business philosophy has always revolved around three words: passion, professionalism, and sharing. If you're not professional enough and just play around making a cup of coffee, then it's not professional. Sharing is the core, and if the knowledge I impart can help you make a good cup of coffee at home, then this cultural atmosphere begins
Moved by the sincerity of village officials, I opened a shop in the village
Stay calm and "guard the door" during the spring outing season craze
The fate between Xiaoyan and Yuanjing Village began with a long tug of war. At that time, Yuanjing Village was planning overall cultural and tourism development, and the project team valued the inherent traffic and high customer loyalty of Cosee Coffee, hoping that he could settle in. But Xiaoyan glanced at it and felt 'too desolate'.
When I first came here, I used to sit alone on the steps for an afternoon, with almost no one around. There weren't any young people, and I just saw an old man walking around here. "Xiao Yan smiled and said, his idea at the time was" to lose money for three years first.
The reason why I became a member of Yuanjing Village, Xiaoyan frankly said, was moved by the sincerity of Yuan Zhulong, the village secretary of Yuanjing Village. In order to make Xiaoyan the first merchant in Yuanjing Village, Yuan Zhulong approached him no less than seven times, from rent reduction to future planning, Xiaoyan never gave up. What really moved him was a rainy night. Our old shop in Luodian Ancient Town was about to close that day, but it was still filled with old acquaintances who were drinking and chatting about coffee. As soon as the secretary saw this scene, he realized that 'the people who come here will follow you.' This judgment and sincerity made Xiaoyan decide to move training, salons, and other activities here first, and use it as a 'battlefield'.
On the eve of the "Flower God Festival" in March 2025, the Cosee Yuanjing Village store opened with a large number of customers. Village officials spontaneously helped with cash register, table cleaning, and sweeping. After finishing my busy day, the secretary came to ask me if I had confidence. I said, 'If I do this every day, I must have confidence!' Xiaoyan recalled with a smile, but then he comforted Yuan Zhulong in turn, saying that outdoor businesses have peak and off seasons, so there's no need to worry too much. 'No one is okay, I'm doing training and revitalizing activities.'
This year, the arrival of the Shanghai rural spring outing season has made Yuanjing Village thoroughly lively. Various formats such as rapeseed fields, go karts, and small trains attract a large number of family tourists, and the shops are often crowded to the brim. However, in this wave of enthusiasm, Xiaoyan remained calm and sharp. The data exposed by the media are all taken when there are the most people. If you have the courage to take pictures on weekdays or rainy days, it may be a different scene. "In his view, the significance of rural revitalization is not entirely about how much money businesses can earn in the short term, but about returning the overall supporting facilities of the countryside to a perfect state, allowing young people to live and work here at a relatively low cost, and providing a resilient" buffer zone "for the city.
Taking his own store as an example, Xiaoyan pointed out the "shortcomings" exposed after the surge in customer flow: "The biggest problem is parking. Old customers call me to ask if I have a parking space, and I say no, so he doesn't come." In addition, there are insufficient public restrooms, missing directional signs, and a lack of public rest areas where people can rest without spending... These "small things", in Xiaoyan's opinion, are precisely the key to retaining people.
From being lost in thought alone to being surrounded by regular customers, Xiaoyan is more like a "gatekeeper" in Yuanjing Village. He stubbornly screened out customers who were truly 'related' to coffee. For this reason, he does not add tea drinks to the menu, does not sell ice cream to please children, and does not make drinks at night to increase revenue. Coffee shops make alcohol from eight in the morning to nine in the evening, which is actually a kind of helplessness. But mixing the taste of alcohol and coffee can ruin professionalism. He even "offended" an aunt who wanted sugar packets, and would rather advise her not to come next time than to keep her "original taste". If this becomes a noisy gathering hall, then this quiet and leisurely space will be destroyed
Use a cup of 'authentic' coffee
Growing together with the countryside
This almost paranoid persistence stems from Xiaoyan's reverence for the coffee profession. He calculated that in order to make a profit from an American style cup priced at 8 yuan, he could only use the extremely low-cost "recycled beans"; And for a cup of coffee in his shop, the cost of beans alone could be as high as 8 yuan. We pick beans from a hundred miles, even a thousand miles. Good coffee has a 'beauty' that makes you want to smile as soon as you drink it, "he pointed out the window and said." If people are willing to come all the time because our coffee is good, that's what makes me truly happy
Having rooted in Yuanjing Village for over a year, what moved Xiaoyan the most was the working condition of the local officials. My impression of grassroots cadres used to be drinking tea and reading newspapers. But when I came to Luodian, I found that it was completely different. He was very impressed. On weekends, everyone would also come to the store to make purchases, but they still sat down to talk about work, and this became their "second workstation". During peak holiday periods, village officials will also guide traffic outside or help wash dishes and cash at the bar.
Xiaoyan sighed and said, "They are not like leaders, but more like colleagues who work side by side with us. As merchants, we are really pushed forward by their enthusiasm
From the "Flower God Festival" in spring to daily operations, Xiaoyan has invested a considerable amount of decoration costs here - a real fireplace imported from Europe, a hand built stone wall costing tens of thousands of yuan, four expensive bean grinders... All of this is not to become a "quick money making" village caf é, but to truly take root. I originally planned to lose money for three years, but now it's been over a year and I've started to make profits, which is better than expected, "Xiaoyan said calmly as she looked out the window at the forest." I think what's more meaningful is that this matter needs to be sustainable. What we need to work hard on now is to improve our quality and make this market a good taste that more coffee enthusiasts can 'see'
As I left the Cosee coffee shop, a gentle evening breeze swept over the fields. The lights in the caf é lit up, warm and firm. In the symphony of revitalizing rural areas during the 'Spring Outing Season', Xiaoyan and his cospee coffee play a long note about professionalism, perseverance, and passion. It may not be the loudest, but it may be the most melodious, attracting those who truly appreciate it, crossing mountains and seas, and rushing towards it. This may be the most precious gift that a 'new villager' brings to the local countryside.
Text: Shi Xieyun
Editor: Huang Qianxin
Shangguan account author: Shanghai San Nong