一颗非洲咖啡豆的中国之旅（新视窗）A Journey to China with an African Coffee Bean (New Window)

本报记者 欧阳洁

如果想要了解咖啡生豆如何变成手中醇香的咖啡，一定要到江苏昆山。

在这里，路易达孚、苏可菲纳等国际咖啡生豆贸易企业建设咖啡生豆贸易、分拨项目，为国内烘焙加工企业提供来自世界各地、种类丰富的咖啡生豆；瑞幸、星巴克建成的智能型咖啡烘焙工厂，每天高效供应全国数万家门店；超过1000家特色咖啡馆清香四溢，打造出这座城市的独特气息。

据统计，2025年昆山烘焙咖啡豆产能超18万吨，占全国当年总量的60%左右，“每3杯咖啡就有2杯源自昆山烘焙”，昆山因此被称为“国际咖啡产业之都”。

对非“零关税”举措效应释放

“中国咖啡市场增长空间不小”

在昆山，星巴克中国咖啡创新产业园外观醒目，浅灰色的厂房外墙上，星巴克绿色美人鱼标志旁边，鲜红色咖啡浆果充盈饱满，翠绿的咖啡枝叶舒展摇曳。正是这一颗颗小小的咖啡浆果经采摘、处理、烘焙到萃取，最终成为风靡世界的饮品。

昆山园区是星巴克在全球的第七个工厂，也是绿色化、智能化程度最高的烘焙基地，自动化生产线可以实现从生豆分拣、精准控温烘焙到智能包装全过程。“星巴克最引以为傲的就是，50多年来始终能保持稳定性，让消费者只要一喝到就知道这是星巴克咖啡。”星巴克(昆山)咖啡有限公司相关负责人介绍，“随着产地、品种、季节和企业变化，生豆风味各有不同，我们会精准调控烘焙曲线，确保每一批次咖啡豆风味基本一致。”

非洲咖啡生豆是星巴克的重要原料来源之一。今年5月1日起，我国对53个非洲建交国全面实施零关税举措，原产于肯尼亚的咖啡生豆进口关税从最惠国税率8%直接降至0。

5月29日，星巴克(昆山)咖啡有限公司向南京海关所属昆山海关申报进口了一批原产于肯尼亚的咖啡生豆。这批进口咖啡生豆货值数百万元，预计享受关税优惠20余万元。“根据公司目前在途货物及发货计划测算，仅肯尼亚原产咖啡生豆一项，预计可享受关税减让上百万元。”这位负责人介绍道。

不仅大型烘焙加工企业生产成本下降，中小型加工企业同样获益。昆山柯乐咖啡烘焙有限公司是一家成立10余年的本土企业，为全国200多家经销商定制产品。“4月份，我们订购6月份交割的咖啡时，就发现咖啡生豆的报价下来了，比当时现货价格下降近10%。”柯乐咖啡创始人巩开清深耕行业近20年，他介绍，“严格把控原料品质、具备专业的拼配和烘焙技术，让我们在市场中站稳了脚跟。现在中国人均年咖啡消费量20多杯，欧美国家300多杯，中国咖啡市场增长空间不小。”

柯乐咖啡希望带着中国咖啡走入国际市场。“新工厂正在选址规划，明年全新的智能化工厂就会投产，产能是目前的3至4倍。”巩开清正在为开拓新市场做前期准备，“不仅要适应当地法律法规、市场环境，还要了解当地消费者的口味偏好和饮用习惯。”

据昆山海关统计，今年1—5月，昆山进口咖啡生豆1.6万吨、货值8.6亿元，占全国进口量18%、进口金额20%。其中，从非洲进口了肯尼亚、坦桑尼亚、乌干达、埃塞俄比亚、卢旺达5个国家的咖啡生豆，占昆山进口咖啡生豆总金额的18%。其中进口自肯尼亚的咖啡生豆货值3017万元，同比增长74%。根据今年前5月企业申报进口肯尼亚咖啡生豆数据测算，昆山进口咖啡生豆预计一年可享受关税减让约200万元。

构建咖啡产业链

“高效保证每一颗咖啡豆的品质”

制成一杯9.9元的瑞幸咖啡并不容易。

一颗颗南美洲、非洲咖啡豆漂洋过海到达中国口岸，进口企业要经过严格的资质审核，咖啡生豆也要通过严格的检验检疫，才能进入中国市场。生豆储存条件严苛，需要存放在恒温恒湿的仓库，温度要常年控制在18摄氏度左右，相对湿度在55%—65%。一旦完成烘焙加工，咖啡豆又需要高效分拨分销到各个门店，最终才能保证新鲜度，制成一杯醇香的咖啡。

这些条件在昆山一一得到满足。

从地理位置上来看，昆山距离上海洋山港和外高桥港只有两小时车程，从口岸进口的生豆能快捷运送到这里。烘焙加工而成的咖啡豆又能在3小时之内运送到整个华东地区，这里不仅是国内咖啡消费的重要市场，咖啡文化和氛围也相对浓厚。

从仓储物流来看，2023年，昆山建成亚太咖啡生豆分拨中心，这是国内首个专业化、高标准的咖啡生豆恒温恒湿库。目前，规划面积4.5万平方米的亚太咖啡生豆分拨中心二期新项目也已投入使用。分拨中心内专业的物流公司运用先进的仓储管理系统，实现货物和数据的高效运行。

目前，昆山集聚了40余家国际咖啡头部企业，构建起一条集生豆贸易分拨、平台交易、研发烘焙、品牌销售于一体的咖啡产业链。

厦门建发生活资材有限责任公司是国内咖啡产业供应链运营商，2025年11月起在昆山建设运营亚太(昆山)咖啡豆分拨中心。在分拨中心高10米的仓库里，整齐码放着一袋袋咖啡生豆，空气中弥漫着淡淡的生豆清香。据工作人员介绍，仓库整体满仓率大约在80%，生豆主要供应1公里以外的瑞幸烘焙工厂，几分钟就能送达。

2024年4月，瑞幸咖啡食品(江苏)烘焙有限公司竣工投产，建成涵盖生豆仓储、分拨、烘焙、包装及销售于一体的智慧型咖啡烘焙生产基地，年烘焙咖啡豆3万吨。2023年6月5日，瑞幸第1万家门店在厦门开业；2024年7月18日，第2万家门店在北京开业；如今瑞幸已经成为国内首个突破3万家门店的中国咖啡品牌。

“我们作为国内咖啡生豆贸易企业，选择昆山，首先是区位优势，昆山能快速辐射销售市场；其次是产业生态，40多家国际头部咖啡企业汇聚于此，产业集聚效应显著。此外依托昆山的政策优势和海关的高效通关，我们正构建集进口通关、保税仓储、分拨配送于一体的专业化平台，实现全球优质咖啡豆迅捷通关、安全仓储、精准分拨、配送高效。”厦门建发生活资材有限责任公司烘焙饮品运营部总经理毛明倩介绍。

咖啡生豆如今能从口岸便捷运送到昆山咖啡生豆恒温恒湿库，但在几年前初入中国市场时却并不容易。咖啡生豆数量大、赏味期短，如何保证通关效率，又能满足检验检疫要求，保证每一颗咖啡生豆的品质？报关、运输、储存、生产、再销售环环紧扣，如何让整个保税货物监管链条更加明晰？生豆进口、咖啡豆国内市场销售，如何让加工企业享受更多政策优惠，最终惠及国内消费者？……面对一系列难题，昆山海关梳理出咖啡豆进出综合保税区的13种流程脉络，创新推出全国首个“优化账册监管模式”。

“形象地说，我们就是把原本串联起来的流程合并到一个通道中完成，大大提高了通关效率，同时守住安全底线。目前90%的咖啡生豆实现‘随报随检’，高效保证每一颗咖啡豆的品质。”昆山海关关长林伟东介绍，2025年，昆山进出口食品检测服务中心正式启用，咖啡全项目检测能力得到提升，检测时长可以压缩70%。

厚植咖啡文化

“什么是一杯真正好喝的咖啡”

在昆山开发区青阳港片区的一块城市绿地旁，小桥流水，苏式亭榭。今年4月，这里开设了一家咖啡馆——富咖苑，每到周末或是午后，一座难求。不仅当地人喜欢来这里临水而坐，品尝地道的咖啡，外地游客也循着各个平台的推荐过来打卡。

富咖苑不仅环境宜人，而且能让消费者喝到一杯真正美味的“大师”咖啡。技术总监吕承殷深耕咖啡行业30年，曾担任过世界咖啡烘焙赛裁判长。他每天都在店里为客人制作手冲咖啡，也乐于与客人分享咖啡知识。“我就想让产品回归咖啡的本质，告诉客人什么是一杯真正好喝的咖啡。”吕承殷介绍。

富咖苑室内一角摆放着一台吕承殷自己设计的咖啡烘焙机，用来烘焙生豆时，咖啡豆和咖啡的清香会弥散在空气中；货架上还有他自己设计的咖啡手摇研磨机，造型独特的齿轮能让咖啡豆充分碾磨；屋外的栅栏外，还有几株从云南移植过来的咖啡树苗，不留意很难发现……这里能让人们处处感受到咖啡的美妙。

像富咖苑这样的独立咖啡馆在昆山有1000多家，昆山希望推动咖啡文化深度浸润城市，融入百姓生活日常，培育“国际咖啡产业之都”的文化底蕴与人文内涵。

近年来，昆山持续做好“咖啡+”文章，推动咖啡与文化、旅游、商圈、乡村振兴等领域深度融合，不断丰富各类消费场景。在千灯镇歇马桥村，青砖黛瓦、小桥流水，一间间小巧精致的咖啡馆临河伴水，游客坐在河边的咖啡座喝咖啡、吃甜品，看游船划过，看闲云飞鸟，村咖集聚村成为周边市民的周末好去处；星巴克产业园向消费者开放参观，可以在这里了解咖啡豆从筛选到烘焙的全过程，还能亲手制作一杯咖啡。咖啡元素充满整座城市。

据昆山市商务局负责同志介绍，下一步，昆山将聚力打造千亿元级咖啡产业，整合从咖啡生豆贸易、烘焙加工到设备制造、品牌营销的全产业链，同时扩展更多咖啡消费场景业态，厚植咖啡文化，构建起“昆山制造+咖啡品牌+内容营销”生态圈，营造“满城咖啡香”的氛围。

(丁茜茜参与采写)

《 人民日报 》( 2026年06月19日 05 版)

Our reporter Ouyang Jie

If you want to learn how green coffee beans turn into fragrant coffee in your hand, you must go to Kunshan, Jiangsu.

Here, international coffee green bean trading enterprises such as Louis Dreyfus and Sukhofina establish coffee green bean trading and distribution projects, providing domestic roasting and processing enterprises with a wide variety of coffee green beans from all over the world; The intelligent coffee roasting factory built by Luckin Coffee and Starbucks efficiently supplies tens of thousands of stores nationwide every day; More than 1000 specialty cafes exude a fragrant aroma, creating a unique atmosphere for this city.

According to statistics, by 2025, the production capacity of roasted coffee beans in Kunshan will exceed 180000 tons, accounting for about 60% of the country's total for that year. "Two out of every three cups of coffee come from Kunshan roasting," making Kunshan known as the "capital of the international coffee industry.

The release of the effects of non zero tariff measures

The growth potential of the Chinese coffee market is not small

In Kunshan, the Starbucks China Coffee Innovation Industrial Park has a striking appearance. On the light gray exterior walls of the factory, next to the Starbucks green mermaid logo, bright red coffee berries are full and plump, and the emerald green coffee branches and leaves sway and sway. It is these small coffee berries that have been picked, processed, roasted, and extracted, ultimately becoming a popular beverage worldwide.

Kunshan Park is Starbucks' seventh factory worldwide and also the most green and intelligent baking base. The automated production line can realize the entire process from raw bean sorting, precise temperature control baking to intelligent packaging. Starbucks is most proud of its stability for over 50 years, allowing consumers to know it's Starbucks coffee as soon as they drink it, "said the person in charge of Starbucks (Kunshan) Coffee Co., Ltd

African coffee beans are one of Starbucks' important sources of raw materials. Starting from May 1st this year, China has fully implemented zero tariff measures for 53 African countries that have established diplomatic relations. The import tariff on coffee beans originating from Kenya has been directly reduced from the most favored nation rate of 8% to 0.

On May 29th, Starbucks (Kunshan) Coffee Co., Ltd. declared the import of a batch of coffee beans originating from Kenya to Kunshan Customs under Nanjing Customs. This batch of imported coffee beans is worth millions of yuan and is expected to enjoy a tariff discount of over 200000 yuan. According to the company's current goods in transit and shipment plan, only Kenyan origin coffee beans are expected to enjoy tariff reductions of millions of yuan, "the person in charge said.

Not only have the production costs of large baking and processing enterprises decreased, but small and medium-sized processing enterprises have also benefited. Kunshan Kele Coffee Baking Co., Ltd. is a local enterprise established for more than 10 years, customizing products for more than 200 distributors across the country. In April, when we ordered coffee for delivery in June, we found that the price for green coffee beans had dropped by nearly 10% compared to the spot price at that time, "said Gong Kaiqing, founder of Kele Coffee, who has been deeply involved in the industry for nearly 20 years." By strictly controlling the quality of raw materials and possessing professional blending and baking techniques, we have firmly established ourselves in the market. Now, the average annual coffee consumption per capita in China is over 20 cups, and in European and American countries it is over 300 cups. The growth space of the Chinese coffee market is not small

Ke Le Coffee hopes to bring Chinese coffee into the international market. The new factory is currently undergoing site selection planning, and a brand new intelligent factory will be put into operation next year, with a production capacity three to four times that of the current one. Gong Kaiqing is making preliminary preparations to explore new markets, not only to adapt to local laws and regulations, market environment, but also to understand the taste preferences and drinking habits of local consumers

According to statistics from Kunshan Customs, from January to May this year, Kunshan imported 16000 tons of green coffee beans with a value of 860 million yuan, accounting for 18% of the national import volume and 20% of the import amount. Among them, coffee beans from five countries including Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Ethiopia, and Rwanda were imported from Africa, accounting for 18% of the total amount of coffee beans imported into Kunshan. The value of coffee beans imported from Kenya was 30.17 million yuan, a year-on-year increase of 74%. According to the data of imported Kenyan coffee beans declared by enterprises in the first five months of this year, it is estimated that Kunshan's imported coffee beans can enjoy a tariff reduction of about 2 million yuan per year.

Building a coffee industry chain

Efficiently ensuring the quality of every coffee bean

Making a 9.9 yuan Luckin Coffee is not easy.

Coffee beans from South America and Africa drift across the sea to reach Chinese ports, and import companies must undergo strict qualification audits. Green coffee beans must also pass strict inspection and quarantine before entering the Chinese market. The storage conditions for raw beans are strict, requiring them to be stored in a warehouse with constant temperature and humidity. The temperature should be controlled at around 18 degrees Celsius throughout the year, and the relative humidity should be between 55% and 65%. Once the roasting process is completed, the coffee beans need to be efficiently distributed to various stores in order to ensure freshness and make a cup of fragrant coffee.

These conditions are met one by one in Kunshan.

Geographically speaking, Kunshan is only a two-hour drive from Yangshan Port and Waigaoqiao Port in Shanghai, allowing for quick delivery of imported green beans from the ports. The roasted coffee beans can be delivered to the entire East China region within 3 hours, which is not only an important market for domestic coffee consumption, but also has a relatively strong coffee culture and atmosphere.

From the perspective of warehousing and logistics, in 2023, Kunshan will establish the Asia Pacific Coffee Green Bean Distribution Center, which is the first specialized and high standard coffee green bean constant temperature and humidity warehouse in China. At present, the second phase of the Asia Pacific Coffee Green Bean Distribution Center with a planned area of 45000 square meters has also been put into use. Professional logistics companies within the distribution center utilize advanced warehousing management systems to achieve efficient operation of goods and data.

At present, Kunshan has gathered more than 40 international coffee leading enterprises, building a coffee industry chain that integrates green bean trade distribution, platform trading, research and development baking, and brand sales.

Xiamen Jianfa Life Materials Co., Ltd. is a domestic coffee industry supply chain operator. Starting from November 2025, it will construct and operate the Asia Pacific (Kunshan) coffee bean distribution center in Kunshan. In the 10 meter high warehouse of the distribution center, neatly stacked bags of coffee beans, the air is filled with a faint aroma of green beans. According to the staff, the overall full occupancy rate of the warehouse is about 80%, and the raw beans are mainly supplied to Luckin baking factories 1 kilometer away, which can be delivered in a few minutes.

In April 2024, Luckin Coffee (Jiangsu) Baking Co., Ltd. was completed and put into operation, building a smart coffee roasting production base that covers raw bean storage, distribution, roasting, packaging, and sales, with an annual roasting capacity of 30000 tons of coffee beans. On June 5, 2023, Luckin Coffee's 10000th store opened in Xiamen; On July 18, 2024, the 20000th store opened in Beijing; Nowadays, Luckin Coffee has become the first Chinese coffee brand to break through 30000 stores in China.

As a domestic coffee green bean trading enterprise, we chose Kunshan firstly due to its location advantage, which can quickly radiate the sales market. Secondly, due to its industrial ecology, more than 40 international top coffee companies gather here, and the industrial agglomeration effect is significant. In addition, relying on Kunshan's policy advantages and efficient customs clearance, we are building a specialized platform integrating import clearance, bonded warehousing, and distribution, to achieve fast clearance, safe warehousing, precise distribution, and efficient delivery of high-quality coffee beans worldwide. "said Mao Mingqian, General Manager of the Baking Beverage Operations Department of Xiamen Jianfa Life Materials Co., Ltd.

Green coffee beans can now be conveniently transported from ports to Kunshan's constant temperature and humidity coffee bean warehouse, but it was not easy when they first entered the Chinese market a few years ago. How to ensure customs clearance efficiency while meeting inspection and quarantine requirements and ensuring the quality of each coffee green bean, given its large quantity and short taste period? How to make the entire bonded goods supervision chain more clear as customs declaration, transportation, storage, production, and resale are closely linked? How to enable processing enterprises to enjoy more policy incentives for importing raw beans and selling coffee beans in the domestic market, ultimately benefiting domestic consumers? Faced with a series of difficulties, Kunshan Customs has sorted out 13 processes for coffee beans entering and leaving the comprehensive bonded zone, and innovatively launched the country's first "optimized accounting supervision model".

Visually speaking, we have merged the originally interconnected processes into one channel, greatly improving customs clearance efficiency while maintaining safety bottom line. Currently, 90% of coffee beans are inspected and reported at the same time, efficiently ensuring the quality of each coffee bean. "said Lin Weidong, the director of Kunshan Customs. In 2025, the Kunshan Import and Export Food Testing Service Center will be officially put into use, improving the testing capabilities of all coffee projects and reducing testing time by 70%.

Thick Planting Coffee Culture

What is a truly delicious cup of coffee

Beside an urban green space in Qingyang Port area of Kunshan Development Zone, there are small bridges and flowing water, and Su style pavilions. In April of this year, a coffee shop called Fu Ka Yuan was opened here, which is hard to find every weekend or afternoon. Not only do locals like to come here to sit by the water and taste authentic coffee, but tourists from other places also follow the recommendations of various platforms to check in.

Fukayuan not only has a pleasant environment, but also allows consumers to enjoy a truly delicious cup of "master" coffee. Technical Director Lv Chengyin has been deeply involved in the coffee industry for 30 years and has served as the chief referee of the World Coffee Baking Competition. He makes handmade coffee for customers in the store every day and is also happy to share coffee knowledge with them. I just want the product to return to the essence of coffee and tell customers what a truly delicious cup of coffee is, "said Lv Chengyin.

In a corner of the Fuka Garden, there is a coffee roaster designed by Lv Chengyin himself. When roasting green beans, the coffee beans and their fragrance will diffuse into the air; There is also a coffee hand grinder designed by himself on the shelf, with unique gears that allow coffee beans to be fully ground; Outside the fence, there are several coffee saplings transplanted from Yunnan, which are hard to notice... This place allows people to feel the beauty of coffee everywhere.

There are over 1000 independent coffee shops like Fukayuan in Kunshan, and Kunshan hopes to promote the deep infiltration of coffee culture into the city, integrate it into people's daily lives, and cultivate the cultural heritage and humanistic connotation of the "International Coffee Industry Capital".

In recent years, Kunshan has continued to promote the integration of coffee with culture, tourism, business districts, rural revitalization, and other fields, continuously enriching various consumption scenarios. In Xiemaqiao Village, Qiandeng Town, with green bricks and black tiles, small bridges and flowing water, small and exquisite cafes stand by the river with water. Tourists sit in the coffee shops by the river, drink coffee, eat desserts, watch the boats pass by, and watch the leisurely clouds and birds fly. The village has become a weekend destination for the surrounding residents; Starbucks Industrial Park is open for consumers to visit, where they can learn about the entire process of coffee beans from screening to roasting, and even make a cup of coffee by themselves. Coffee elements fill the entire city.

According to the person in charge of Kunshan Municipal Bureau of Commerce, the next step is to focus on building a billion yuan coffee industry in Kunshan, integrating the entire industry chain from coffee green bean trade, roasting and processing to equipment manufacturing and brand marketing. At the same time, expanding more coffee consumption scenarios and formats, cultivating coffee culture, building an "Kunshan manufacturing+coffee brand+content marketing" ecosystem, and creating an atmosphere of "coffee fragrance throughout the city".

(Ding Qianqian participated in the writing)

People's Daily (June 19, 2026, Issue 05)