浙江临海市河头镇羊岩山 岩洞里的咖啡Coffee in Yangyanshan Cave, Hetou Town, Linhai City, Zhejiang Province

羊岩山，是浙江临海市河头镇境内的最高峰，海拔近800米，因有岩似羊而得名。上世纪七十年代初，当地乡政府穷则思变，果断引茶农上山，垦出一片茶园。羊岩山常年云雾缭绕，正是种茶的理想环境和高度，加上土壤里硒含量丰富，滋养出来的茶叶，芽肥叶实，白毫匀齐。泡茶时，只须放一小撮入杯，蜷曲如钩的身形被沸水唤醒，茶汤碧如青天，口感鲜爽回甘，满室飘香，很快收获“江南第一勾青”的美誉。

我领着几位上海的朋友上羊岩山，是奔着茶和风景去的，却意外地在距山顶还有几十米的地方，闻到一股异香，让我在茶的领地里，撞见了茶的劲敌——咖啡。

这里原本有一个天然石窟隐于路边，洞内清凉惬意，洞外万亩茶海如绿浪翻滚，再喝上一杯茶，立时收汗止惫，精神复归，常被登山者当作歇脚的好地方，因此被叫作“茶仙洞”。现在巨大的崖壁上，新镌刻了4个更醒目的大字：“山也咖啡。”有点洋饮料与土特产过不去的意思！

进洞一看，完全变了模样，只见200多平方米的岩洞空间，被巧妙划分为三个区域：最深处布设吧台，岩壁嵌入暖光灯带，手冲壶与玻璃滤杯在柔光下泛着微芒，两位姑娘正在忙碌；中部为休闲区和阅读角，摆放着几十张休闲椅，几十名游客散坐着闲谈，面前木桌上放着花式手磨咖啡，有一桌几名中年男子正旁若无人地掼蛋，各人面前却是一杯清茶，可能他们还是好着一口传统香茗；入口处是敞亮的观景休憩区，整面弧形崖壁形成落地窗框，将层叠茶海与远山云影框成一幅流动长卷。如纱薄雾拂窗而进，似乎它们也愿意在这多停留一会儿。恰好有两只山雀一前一后从窗外飞进来，盘旋一圈，又倏忽掠出，引得众人一阵欢叫。

我与两位店主闲聊，得知这间特别的咖啡馆，缘起于一场随性的山野奔赴。他们是金霄威与杨子江，都不是本镇人，是常年结伴追风的机车骑友。去年春天，他俩在羊岩山的山路十八弯上驱驰，累了便在这处天然石洞里歇脚。甫一坐下，奔波的风尘被山风拂去，骑行的疲惫在岩洞里消散，他们掏出随身携带的咖啡饮料解渴，感觉别有一番野趣，这也让他俩突然灵光乍现，何不借势而为，将岩洞改造成一座咖啡馆？

他俩找到茶场场长朱昌才，说明创意，没费唇舌，立即得到朱场长的支持，他没有把咖啡当对手，也不怕两者分庭抗礼，反而将其作为饮中金兰。岩洞不需要改动多少，洞壁保留着原始岩肌，粗粝中透出自然的温润光泽；也不需要精致的雕琢，岩石凹凸有致，岩壁肌理如凝固的波浪，青灰中泛着铁锈色的斑痕，现代与沧桑，在这里完美结合。今年元旦，“山也咖啡”开门营业。没想到，茶山里的咖啡馆，如同解锁了羊岩山的全新诗意，迅速出圈，成为深山高崖间独树一帜的打卡秘境，迅速在网上走红。

年轻人最为喜欢，也许他们将此作为山野乌托邦，在咖啡的醇香里，拥抱自由，邂逅浪漫，让鲜活的青春与山韵野趣撞个满怀。年长的喜欢，静坐岩洞，看岚霏漫岗、群山苍莽，听山风穿林、鸟鸣山谷，一杯香茗，半日清闲，享受远离尘世的安然闲适。最欢喜的要数孩童，他们把岩洞当作充满未知的探险天地，角落里藏着飘忽的光斑草影，更有虫声微唱，水流滴答，无不让他们惊奇。

随我而来的上海朋友，有一位是咖啡界的大咖，他慢慢啜着一杯拿铁，不无感慨：“在这里喝上一杯，才是极致的体验。”

他品味的是心境，而我有另一种感喟，上羊岩山的游人何止百万，在岩洞里歇息过的也不会少，可偏偏只有这两位店主能激发出化腐朽为神奇的大胆想法，这里边，恐怕不仅包含着独到眼光和创业思维，更有他们动时能按下快进键骑机车追风逐月，静时又能按下暂停键坐下来观风赏月的人生态度。作小诗一首示赞：

石厅岩幔山耸屏，霞入咖色日溶茗。罅泉浅沸松烟软，尽遣心云忘尘冥。

来源：新民晚报 作者：金毅

Yangyan Mountain is the highest peak in Hetou Town, Linhai City, Zhejiang Province, with an altitude of nearly 800 meters. It is named after the rock resembling a sheep. In the early 1970s, the local township government was desperate for change and decisively led tea farmers up the mountain to cultivate a tea garden. Yangyan Mountain is shrouded in clouds and mist all year round, making it an ideal environment and height for tea cultivation. In addition, the soil is rich in selenium, which nourishes the tea leaves with plump buds, solid leaves, and even white hairs. When brewing tea, only a small amount needs to be added to the cup. The curled body is awakened by boiling water, and the tea soup is as blue as the blue sky. The taste is fresh and sweet, and the room is filled with fragrance, quickly earning the reputation of "the first hooked green tea in Jiangnan".

I led a few friends from Shanghai to Yangyan Mountain, aiming for tea and scenery. However, unexpectedly, a strange fragrance was smelled several tens of meters away from the mountaintop, which led me to encounter tea's rival - coffee - in the realm of tea.

There used to be a natural grotto hidden by the roadside here, with a cool and comfortable atmosphere inside. Outside the cave, thousands of acres of tea sea rolled like green waves. Drinking a cup of tea, sweating and fatigue subsided instantly, and the spirit returned. It is often regarded as a good place for climbers to rest, hence it is called the "Tea Immortal Cave". On the huge cliff now, four more eye-catching characters have been engraved: "Mountain also coffee." It means that foreign drinks and local specialties cannot coexist!

Upon entering the cave, the appearance completely changed. The cave space of over 200 square meters was ingeniously divided into three areas: a bar counter was set up at the deepest part, warm light strips were embedded in the rock wall, hand drawn teapots and glass filter cups shone faintly in the soft light, and two girls were busy; The central area is a leisure area and a reading corner, with dozens of leisure chairs placed, and dozens of tourists sitting around chatting. In front of them, there is a wooden table with fancy hand ground coffee, and a table with several middle-aged men casually laying eggs. In front of each person is a cup of clear tea, perhaps they are still enjoying a traditional fragrant tea; The entrance is a bright viewing and rest area. The whole curved cliff wall forms a landing window frame, which frames the cascading tea sea and distant mountain cloud shadow into a flowing scroll. Like a thin mist brushing through the window, it seems that they are also willing to stay here for a while longer. Coincidentally, two sparrows flew in from outside the window, circling around and then darting out, causing a burst of cheers from the crowd.

I chatted with two shop owners and learned that this special caf é originated from a spontaneous mountain trip. They are Jin Xiaowei and Yang Zijiang, neither of whom are from this town. They are motorcycle riders who have been chasing the wind together all year round. Last spring, they drove on the winding mountain road of Yangyan Mountain and rested in this natural cave when they got tired. As soon as they sat down, the running dust was swept away by the mountain wind, and the fatigue of cycling dissipated in the cave. They took out the coffee drinks they carried with them to quench their thirst, feeling a sense of wildness. This also gave them a sudden inspiration. Why not take advantage of the situation and transform the cave into a caf é?

They found the tea plantation manager Zhu Changcai and explained their creativity. Without hesitation, they immediately gained the manager's support. He did not treat coffee as a rival, nor did he fear the competition between the two. Instead, he regarded it as a golden orchid to drink. The cave does not require much modification, as the cave walls retain the original rock texture and exude a natural, warm luster amidst the roughness; There is no need for exquisite carving either. The rocks are undulating and the texture of the rock walls is like solidified waves, with rust colored scars in the green and gray. Here, modernity and vicissitudes are perfectly combined. This New Year's Day, "Shanya Coffee" opened for business. Unexpectedly, the coffee shop in the Tea Mountain, like unlocking a new poetic essence of Yangyan Mountain, quickly gained popularity and became a unique check-in secret among the deep mountains and high cliffs, quickly becoming popular online.

Young people love it the most, perhaps they see it as a utopia in the mountains and wilderness, embracing freedom and encountering romance in the rich aroma of coffee, allowing their vibrant youth to collide with the charm of the mountains and wilderness. Older people enjoy sitting quietly in caves, watching the misty hills and the vast mountains, listening to the mountain breeze through the forest and bird songs in the valley, enjoying a cup of fragrant tea, half a day of leisure, and enjoying a peaceful and leisurely life away from the world. The happiest ones are the children, who regard the cave as a world full of unknowns for exploration. In the corners, there are scattered light spots and grass shadows, as well as the sound of insects singing and the ticking of water, all of which surprise them.

One of my Shanghai friends who came with me is a big shot in the coffee industry. He slowly sipped a latte and couldn't help but feel emotional: "Drinking a cup here is the ultimate experience

He savors the state of mind, while I have another kind of feeling. There are more than a million tourists visiting Yangyan Mountain, and there are also many who have rested in the cave. However, only these two shop owners can inspire bold ideas to turn decay into magic. Here, it may not only contain unique vision and entrepreneurial thinking, but also their life attitude of being able to press the fast forward button to ride motorcycles and chase the wind and moon, and press the pause button to sit down and watch the wind and moon in silence. Write a poem to praise:

The stone hall, rock curtain, and mountains rise above the screen, with the rosy clouds entering the coffee and the sun melting tea. The shallow spring boils and the pine smoke softens, sending away the clouds of the heart and forgetting the dust and darkness.

Source: Xinmin Evening News Author: Jin Yi