“海”味咖啡 何以在洞头遍地“开花”?Why does "sea" flavored coffee bloom everywhere in caves?

2026-06-28 09:00:47 admin 2347
潮新闻 记者 汪子芳 通讯员 谢炳希

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盛夏的洞头,咸润的海风裹挟着热浪,也漫开一缕缕咖啡香。

从临海崖壁到蔚蓝海岸,从古朴渔村到滨海码头,近30家咖啡、轻食新业态在洞头蓬勃生长。最新加入这片山海文旅版图的,是半屏海岸线上两座“重生”的老油罐。原先的工业遗存摇身一变,以咖啡馆、文创空间和山地公园的崭新身份,重新走进海岛烟火日常。

油罐咖啡、藤壶咖啡、崖顶咖啡、冰厂咖啡……这些独一份的“海”味咖啡,何以在海岛洞头遍地“开花”?

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告别同质化 海岛场景撑起咖啡新赛道

在大众认知里,咖啡是商圈、写字楼的标配业态,与传统渔村、滨海小岛似乎天然隔着一层。而在洞头,咖啡业态跳出了标准化的模板,依托独一无二的山海场景,实现一店一景、一店一境,通过差异化突围,与海岛地貌和场地记忆深度绑定,形成了无法复刻的文旅体验。
半屏岛的油罐公园,藏着洞头人半个多世纪的渔家记忆。其前身是1966年建成的老油库,漫长的岁月里,它是当地渔船最靠谱的“海上能量站”。一艘艘渔船起航或归来,都要在这里加满油料,罐体里盛的不仅是燃油,更是几代渔民奔赴山海的希望。2021年老油库正式关停。饱经岁月的罐体布满锈迹,码头渐渐空旷,周边山道荒芜萧条,曾经热闹的工业旧址慢慢淡出了人们的生活。废弃的老油库是拆除重建还是活化利用?洞头区东屏街道携手中国石化温州分公司决定让老建筑焕发新生。

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半屏岛油罐公园开业。东屏街道供图

项目秉持“修旧如旧、活化共生”的理念,对两座千吨级立式储油罐进行保护性改造。施工全程保留油罐原始外观和工业标识,仅通过结构加固、表面打磨、开窗改造等精细工艺,留住老油库硬朗的工业轮廓。园区每一处细节都藏着怀旧巧思,山顶闲置多年的消防水池改造成人造瀑布;园区指示牌由废旧管道手工焊接而成;渔宴餐厅稳稳保留着早年的石头基座。
如今,一号罐变身“瀑布咖啡体验馆”,依托罐体弧形结构打造错落观景座位,透过落地窗可俯瞰整片韭菜岙沙滩。贝壳灯、梅花造型柱等本土元素点缀其间,光影与咖香交织,氛围感直接拉满。“30年前我们来春游的老油库,从前给渔船加油,现在给大家的生活‘加快乐’、添香气!”一位洞头居民由衷感慨。
除了油罐咖啡,今年“五一”开业的崖顶咖啡更是精准拿捏海岛场景优势。00后主理人项上宸此前已经在温州市区开了7家咖啡店。选址时他踏遍洞头各个山头,最终落地东岙顶村的制高点。“站在这里,能俯瞰整片东岙沙滩和民宿群,天气好的时候,半屏山奇崖和仙叠岩礁石尽收眼底,山海风景一览无余。”项上宸介绍。凭借独一无二的山海视野,崖顶咖啡开业即爆红,节假日日均营业额数千元,成为海岛新晋流量地标。

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崖顶咖啡

与此同时,主打豆花轻甜风格的“浢福主义”落地东屏海岸线,以温润豆饮搭配山海风光,补齐海岛轻咖啡业态短板,丰富了消费场景。开业当天,门店豆花销量突破600碗,温润清甜的豆香,为半屏岛的山海日常增添了满满的治愈暖意。
在洞头,咖啡不再只是饮品,而是与悬崖、海浪、锈迹、夕阳深度绑定的沉浸式文旅场景。它让消费者为“无法复刻的体验”买单,从而支撑起文旅新业态持续生长。

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IP破圈 让咖啡装下海岛烟火与文脉

海岛咖啡如果只是“靠海景吃饭”,终有审美疲劳的时候。洞头的智慧在于,依托千百年来的海洋文化,跳出“卖饮品”的单一逻辑,让一杯咖啡成为传播海岛文化的载体。
2024年6月,温州大学文化特派员郑敬玉带领团队入驻东岙顶村,落地打造藤壶文化艺术馆,解锁了海岛文旅的全新打开方式。团队深挖本土特色,把海边随处可见、最具海岛标识的藤壶玩出了新花样。

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藤壶古巷

他们将藤壶肉低温烘烤精细研磨后,融入咖啡基底,独创出风味独特的“藤壶海咖”,口感近似海盐拿铁,还带着海鲜独有的鲜甜回甘。除了咖啡,团队深耕藤壶IP,陆续研发出藤壶海鲜粽、藤壶焦岩披萨、藤壶生醉等特色美食,还将废弃藤壶壳与洞头传统海陶工艺结合,烧制出精致的餐具和艺术摆件,让礁石上不起眼的小小贝类,成长为一条完整的海岛特色产品链。
“藤壶是海岛独有的特色,我们把这份山海记忆做成咖啡、美食和文创,让年轻人用新的方式认识小渔村。”藤壶咖啡的00后运营青年高安泽说道。原本不起眼的礁石海产,成了游客触摸海岛生态肌理与渔家生活记忆的切入点,串联起整片海域的人文故事。

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藤壶咖啡馆室内

文化的力量,延伸至乡村场景与社群营造。今年6月,“藤壶海咖·一路生花”艺术赋美系列活动火热启幕,为小渔村带来满满活力。依托藤壶IP,当地常态化举办“藤壶海咖·一路生花”艺术赋美系列活动,结合AI数字文创路演、高校文旅论坛、厝边村宴、渔歌民俗展演,将单一的咖啡消费,升级为集文化体验、学术交流、乡村联欢于一体的沉浸式文旅活动,让咖啡空间成为乡村文化聚合阵地。

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悬崖咖啡

与此同时,本土青年创客的返乡反哺,让文化更具烟火气。油罐公园的二号油罐改成了公益海岛文创艺术空间,里面整齐陈列着贝雕、海陶、渔民画等传统的洞头非遗手作,墙面挂满老油库的历史照片,静静诉说着这座工业旧址的前世今生,让游客读懂海岛的岁月故事。油罐公园主理人、90后洞头本土青年叶倩影摒弃外来团队“空降设计”,联动本地非遗传承人打造文创产品,邀请渔家厨娘参与食材研发,让老渔民的生活经验、本土传统手艺与青年创意双向融合。
外来青年主理人带着成熟运营思维扎根海岛,本土青年带着乡土情怀深耕创作,借着海岛独有的文化加持,洞头咖啡彻底告别“千店一面”,每一杯海味咖啡、每一处咖啡空间,都藏着独有的海岛故事与渔家文脉。

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全链条护航 让上岛青年扎根山海

山海如画,引得青年踏浪追风而来,而让这些创业青年真正留下来的,则是海岛全链条的政策支持和创业生态。
“洞头的山海氛围、度假质感,完全有潜力对标济州岛,打造高品质国际度假海岛。”专业文旅运营品牌“去那海”的负责人李上坛多次感慨。而更让他感动的,是品牌进驻洞头时,当地政府部门的贴心服务。

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早在2025年初,洞头村谋划风貌提升改造方案时,就推行“运营前置”的理念,提前考虑“去那海”团队的空间需求,最终呈现出了高颜值的设计师民宿、一人食餐厅,还将闲置空间改造为共享泳池、共享观海平台,提升周边民宿集群的配套。“部门提前考虑我们的运营需求,同时在证照办理、活动宣传等过程中提供一站式的支持。”李上坛告诉记者。这种从“管理”到“服务”的转身,让青年创客能心无旁骛地专注于内容与体验。

李上坛的故事并非孤例。针对青年创业缺场地、缺资金、缺经验、缺资源的痛点,洞头精准发力,以政策为抓手,构建“引流-孵化-扶持-留存”全链条服务体系,用诚意与实干栽桐引凤,让青年敢上岛、能创业、留得住。

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七彩洞头村

为留住青年人才,洞头重磅推出“青年上岛计划”,面向18至40岁青年推出七天免费食宿创业体验,盘活村内闲置空间,打造多个“海创空间”。首批上岛青年化身运营主理人,以同龄人的视角,带领更多新来的年轻人认识洞头融入洞头。
人社部门精准赋能,梳理出文旅运营、非遗传播、市集体验等七大创业赛道,为青年精准匹配创业方向,避免盲目跟风、同质化竞争。同时落地全套创业扶持政策,全方位降低海岛创业成本。针对咖啡、文创、特色餐饮等新兴首店业态,更是针对性出台青年返乡创业“新十条”,最高给予20万元专项补助,精准扶持海岛特色新业态发展。

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记者 汪子芳 摄

在服务保障层面,属地街道、文旅、政协等多部门联动,提供证照办理、活动策划等一站式服务,打通青年创业堵点难点。同时整合全域文旅资源,将油罐公园、崖顶咖啡、藤壶艺术馆等新兴业态与韭菜岙沙滩、半屏山等传统景点串珠成链,规划特色文旅线路,常态化推出咖啡市集、海边音乐会等主题活动,持续为咖啡业态引流造势。

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洞头海岛村咖地图

政策红利持续释放,越来越多年轻人奔赴洞头逐梦扎根,从“上岛青年”成为“守岛创业者”。一年多来,超800名青年留岛创业,2200余名大学生登岛就业,一大批青年创客深耕咖啡、文创、旅拍、特色餐饮等新业态,让沉寂渔村变身青春热土。
“刚开始我们只是点点微光,但越来越多年轻人留下来干起来,洞头的山海夜空,一定会星光璀璨。”从杭州回乡创业的洞头麦麦陈舒雯说道,她的心声也是无数海岛创业者的共同期许。
海风不息,咖啡飘香。如今的百岛洞头,正以一杯杯独具山海特色的咖啡,串联起文旅新业态,更多的年轻人在山海之间扎根生长、逐梦前行。
(图片除署名外,均来自洞头发布)
“转载请注明出处”

Chao News reporter Wang Zifang and correspondent Xie Bingxi

In the summer cave, the salty sea breeze carries the heat wave, and also spreads strands of coffee fragrance.

From the coastal cliffs to the azure coast, from quaint fishing villages to coastal docks, nearly 30 new coffee and light food businesses are thriving in Dongtou. The latest additions to this mountain and sea tourism map are two "reborn" old oil tanks along the Banping coastline. The original industrial relics have transformed into a brand new identity of cafes, cultural and creative spaces, and mountain parks, re entering the daily life of island fireworks.

Why do these unique "sea" flavored coffees, such as canned coffee, barnacled coffee, cliff top coffee, and ice factory coffee, bloom everywhere in the caves of the island?

Say goodbye to homogeneous island scenes and support a new coffee track

In the public's perception, coffee is a standard format in commercial districts and office buildings, seemingly separated from traditional fishing villages and coastal islands by a natural layer. In Dongtou, the coffee industry has broken away from standardized templates, relying on unique mountain and sea scenes to achieve one store, one scenery, and one store, one environment. Through differentiation and deep binding with island landforms and site memories, it has formed an irreplaceable cultural and tourism experience.

The oil tank park on Banping Island holds the memories of fishermen from Dongtou for over half a century. Its predecessor was the old oil depot built in 1966, and for a long time, it was the most reliable "offshore energy station" for local fishing boats. Fishing boats set sail or return here, filling up with fuel. The tanks hold not only fuel, but also the hope of generations of fishermen rushing to the mountains and seas. The 2021 old oil depot has officially shut down. The weathered tanks are covered in rust, the docks are gradually becoming empty, the surrounding mountain roads are desolate and desolate, and the once bustling industrial sites are slowly fading out of people's lives. Should abandoned old oil depots be demolished and rebuilt, or revitalized and utilized? Dongping Street in Dongtou District has joined hands with Sinopec Wenzhou Branch to revitalize old buildings.

Half Screen Island Oil Tank Park has opened for business. Map provided by Dongping Street

The project adheres to the concept of "repairing the old as old and revitalizing symbiosis", and carries out protective renovations on two thousand ton vertical oil storage tanks. Throughout the construction process, the original appearance and industrial markings of the oil tank will be retained, and only fine craftsmanship such as structural reinforcement, surface polishing, and window modification will be used to preserve the tough industrial outline of the old oil depot. Every detail in the park hides nostalgic ideas, and the unused fire water pool on the mountaintop has been transformed into a man-made waterfall; The park signs are manually welded from waste pipelines; The Yuyan Restaurant has firmly preserved its early stone pedestal.

Now, can 1 has turned into a "waterfall coffee experience hall", relying on the arc structure of the tank to create scattered viewing seats, overlooking the whole Jiucai'ao beach through the french window. Local elements such as shell lamps and plum blossom shaped columns are embellished among them, interweaving light and shadow with coffee fragrance, directly filling the atmosphere. 30 years ago, we went on a spring outing to the old oil depot. We used to refuel fishing boats, but now we add happiness and fragrance to everyone's lives! "Said a resident of Dongtou with sincere emotion.

In addition to oil tank coffee, Cliff Top Coffee, which opened on May Day this year, has precisely grasped the advantage of island scenes. Mr. Xiang Shangchen, the manager of the post-2000 generation, has already opened 7 coffee shops in the urban area of Wenzhou. When selecting the site, he walked through various hills in Dongtou and finally landed on the high ground of Dongaoding Village. Standing here, you can overlook the entire Dong'ao beach and homestay complex. When the weather is good, you can see the unique cliffs and Xiandie rocks of Banping Mountain, and the mountain and sea scenery is unobstructed. "Xiang Shangchen introduced. With its unique view of mountains and seas, Cliff Top Coffee has become an instant sensation since its opening, with an average daily revenue of thousands of yuan during holidays, becoming a new landmark of traffic on the island.

Cliff Top Coffee

At the same time, the "浢浢浢浢浢浢浢甲甲甲甲甲甲甲甲甲甲甲甲甲甲甲甲甲. On the opening day, the sales volume of tofu pudding in the store exceeded 600 bowls. The warm and sweet bean fragrance added healing warmth to the daily life of Banping Island.

At Dongtou, coffee is no longer just a beverage, but an immersive cultural and tourism scene deeply bound to cliffs, waves, rust, and sunset. It enables consumers to pay for experiences that cannot be replicated, thereby supporting the sustained growth of new cultural and tourism industries.

Breaking the IP circle allows coffee to contain island fireworks and cultural context

If island coffee is only eaten by the sea view, it will eventually lead to aesthetic fatigue. The wisdom of Dongtou lies in relying on thousands of years of ocean culture, breaking away from the single logic of "selling drinks", and making a cup of coffee a carrier for spreading island culture.

In June 2024, Zheng Jingyu, the cultural envoy of Wenzhou University, led a team to settle in Dongaoding Village and built the Tenghu Culture and Art Museum, unlocking a new way of opening up island cultural tourism. The team delved deep into local characteristics and created a new style for the barnacles that are ubiquitous on the beach and have the most distinctive island logo.

Tenghu Ancient Lane

They finely grind the low temperature roasted barnacled meat and blend it into the coffee base to create a unique flavor called "barnacled sea coffee", which has a taste similar to sea salt latte and a fresh sweet aftertaste unique to seafood. In addition to coffee, the team has been deeply cultivating the IP of barnacles, and has successively developed characteristic foods such as barnacled seafood zongzi, barnacled coke rock pizza, and barnacled drunkenness. They have also combined discarded barnacles with traditional sea pottery craftsmanship in Dongtou to create exquisite tableware and artistic ornaments, allowing the inconspicuous small shellfish on the rocks to grow into a complete chain of island specialty products.

Tenghu is a unique feature of islands, and we turn this mountain and sea memory into coffee, food, and cultural creativity, allowing young people to understand small fishing villages in new ways, "said Gao Anzhe, a post-2000 operator of Tenghu Coffee. The originally inconspicuous reef seafood has become a starting point for tourists to touch the ecological texture of the island and the memories of fishermen's lives, connecting the cultural stories of the entire sea area.

Indoor Tenghu Cafe

The power of culture extends to the creation of rural scenes and communities. In June of this year, the "Tenghu Haika · Growing Flowers All the Way" art and beauty series event was launched, bringing full vitality to the small fishing village. Relying on the Tenghu IP, the local area regularly holds the "Tenghu Haika · All the way Flower" art and beauty series activities, combined with AI digital cultural and creative roadshows, university cultural and tourism forums, Cuobian village banquets, and fishing song folk performances, upgrading the single coffee consumption into an immersive cultural and tourism activity that integrates cultural experience, academic exchange, and village celebrations, making the coffee space a gathering place for rural culture.

Cliff Coffee

At the same time, the return of local young makers to their hometowns for feedback has made the culture more vibrant. The second oil tank in the oil tank park has been transformed into a public welfare island cultural and creative art space, which neatly displays traditional cave head intangible cultural heritage handicrafts such as shell carvings, sea pottery, and fisherman paintings. The walls are covered with historical photos of the old oil depot, quietly telling the story of the past and present of this industrial site, allowing tourists to understand the stories of the island's history. Ye Qianying, the manager of Oil Tank Park and a local youth born in the 1990s in Dongtou, abandoned the "parachuting design" of foreign teams and collaborated with local intangible cultural heritage inheritors to create cultural and creative products. She invited fishermen and chefs to participate in ingredient research and development, allowing the life experience of old fishermen, local traditional crafts, and youth creativity to blend together in both directions.

Foreign young managers with mature operational thinking rooted in the island, while local youth with local sentiment deeply cultivate creativity. With the unique cultural support of the island, Dongtou Coffee has completely bid farewell to the "one size fits all" trend. Every cup of seafood coffee and every coffee space hides a unique story of the island and the culture of fishermen.

Full chain escort enables young people on the island to root in the mountains and seas

The picturesque mountains and seas attract young people to ride the waves and chase the wind, while what truly keeps these entrepreneurial youth behind is the policy support and entrepreneurial ecology of the entire chain of the island.

The mountain and sea atmosphere and vacation quality of Dongtou have the potential to benchmark Jeju Island and create a high-quality international vacation island, "said Li Shangtan, the person in charge of the professional cultural and tourism operation brand" Qunahai ". What moved him even more was the attentive service provided by the local government department when the brand entered Dongtou.

As early as early 2025, when Dongtou Village planned to upgrade its appearance and renovation plan, it implemented the concept of "pre operation" and considered the space needs of the "Go to the Sea" team in advance. Eventually, it presented a high-value designer homestay, a one person dining restaurant, and also transformed idle space into a shared swimming pool and a shared sea viewing platform, enhancing the supporting facilities of the surrounding homestay cluster. The department considers our operational needs in advance and provides one-stop support in the process of license application, event promotion, etc., "Li Shangtan told reporters. This shift from "management" to "service" allows young makers to focus solely on content and experience.

The story of Li Shangtan is not an isolated case. In response to the pain points of young entrepreneurs lacking venues, funds, experience, and resources, Dongtou has made precise efforts, using policies as the starting point, to build a full chain service system of "drainage incubation support retention", planting trees and attracting phoenixes with sincerity and practical work, so that young people dare to go to the island, start businesses, and stay.

Colorful Dongtou Village

In order to retain young talents, Dongtou has launched the "Youth Island Plan", offering a seven day free accommodation and entrepreneurship experience for young people aged 18 to 40, revitalizing idle space in the village, and creating multiple "sea innovation spaces". The first batch of young people on the island transformed into operation managers, leading more new young people to get to know Dongtou and integrate into Dongtou from the perspective of their peers.

The human resources and social security department has accurately empowered and sorted out seven entrepreneurial tracks, including cultural and tourism operation, intangible cultural heritage dissemination, and market experience, to accurately match the entrepreneurial direction of young people and avoid blindly following trends and homogeneous competition. Simultaneously implementing a full set of entrepreneurial support policies to comprehensively reduce the cost of island entrepreneurship. In response to emerging first store formats such as coffee, cultural and creative industries, and specialty catering, targeted "New Ten Measures" for young entrepreneurs returning home have been introduced, with a maximum special subsidy of 200000 yuan, providing precise support for the development of new island specialty formats.

Photo by journalist Wang Zifang

At the level of service guarantee, multiple departments such as local streets, cultural tourism, and the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference work together to provide one-stop services such as license processing and event planning, breaking through the bottlenecks and difficulties of youth entrepreneurship. At the same time, integrating all regional cultural and tourism resources, linking emerging formats such as Oil Tank Park, Cliff Top Coffee, and Tenghu Art Museum with traditional attractions such as Jiucai'ao Beach and Banping Mountain, planning distinctive cultural and tourism routes, and regularly launching themed activities such as coffee markets and seaside concerts to continue attracting traffic and creating momentum for the coffee industry.

Dongtou Island Village Coffee Map

The policy dividend continues to be released, and more and more young people are rushing to the cave to pursue their dreams and take root, transforming from "island youth" to "island entrepreneurs". Over the past year, more than 800 young people have stayed on the island to start businesses, over 2200 college students have landed on the island for employment, and a large number of young entrepreneurs have been deeply involved in new business formats such as coffee, cultural and creative industries, travel photography, and specialty catering, transforming the quiet fishing village into a youthful hotspot.

At the beginning, we were just a glimmer of light, but more and more young people are staying to work. The night sky of mountains and seas in Dongtou will surely be sparkling with stars, "said Chen Shuwen, a Dongtou Maimai who returned home from Hangzhou to start her own business. Her voice is also the common expectation of countless island entrepreneurs.

The sea breeze never stops, and the fragrance of coffee lingers. Nowadays, Baidao Dongtou is connecting a new cultural and tourism industry with cups of coffee with unique mountain and sea characteristics. More young people are rooted and growing in the mountains and seas, pursuing their dreams.

(All images, except for the signature, are from Dongtou Publishing)

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