记者手记｜巴西精品咖啡正当时Journalist's note - Brazilian boutique coffee is at the right time
新华社圣保罗7月1日电 记者手记｜巴西精品咖啡正当时
新华社记者陆君钰
“在巴西，咖啡不仅是一种饮品，更是深深扎根的文化。以前大家常喝传统滤泡咖啡，现在人们开始了解咖啡的新市场、喝咖啡的新方式。”圣保罗咖啡节负责人卡约·阿隆索说，“精品咖啡市场正在改变巴西人的消费习惯。”
6月26日至28日，伊比拉布埃拉公园双年展大楼内充满咖啡香气，咖啡种植户、烘焙商、专家和爱好者们齐聚第五届圣保罗咖啡节，在丰富的咖啡体验活动中感受巴西精品咖啡市场全产业链的蓬勃生机。
巴西是全球第一大咖啡生产国和出口国，产区集中在东南部的米纳斯吉拉斯州、圣保罗州和巴拉那州。通常，全球精品咖啡协会（SCA）考核体系下评分80分及以上的咖啡被纳入精品类，代表高品质和独特产区风味。
孔苏埃洛农场咖啡庄园主弗洛拉·塞拉说，这个位于加尔萨产区的家族农场已传承到第三代。40多年前，为了追求机械生产力，她的祖父决定从米纳斯的大山搬迁到加尔萨平原，开辟新的咖啡庄园。“我们的精品咖啡量少质优，在采摘时只挑选全熟果，生豆阶段通过电子机器进行严格筛选，剔除瑕疵。咖啡豆自带极高甜度，冲煮时无需加糖。”
塞拉介绍，传统日晒能够最大程度保留咖啡豆表面微生物，展现出加尔萨地区咖啡独特的坚果、焦糖和巧克力风味。虽然目前庄园主要产出的仍是大宗商品豆，但精品咖啡将是未来布局的发力点。“作为生产者，我们正积极规划并尝试与中国的进口商建立联系。”
“在巴西市场，5年前我只能找到预磨咖啡粉，但现在既可以买咖啡豆，也能选挂耳咖啡。精品咖啡更加普及，尤其在年轻群体中接受度较高。”咖啡爱好者布雷诺·费拉斯表示，这是他第三次来到圣保罗咖啡节。费拉斯观察到，近年来巴西咖啡产品种类日益丰富，产区优势让消费者更容易接触到不同品种、风味和处理方式的咖啡。“线上信息无法替代实际味觉体验，咖啡节提供了同时品尝数十种咖啡的机会。”
作为年轻一代咖啡消费者，费拉斯偏好手冲咖啡，使风味更有层次，时间紧迫时则会选用便捷的挂耳式咖啡。“越来越多展商开始尝试不同的处理方法，并展出不同的咖啡品种，表明行业整体在向多元化发展。年轻一代正是推动这一趋势的主力军。”
在巴西，挂耳咖啡正在悄然兴起。“全天喝咖啡是巴西人的日常习惯。我来自米纳斯吉拉斯州南部，在社区里，邻里表达关心的方式就是邀请对方到家里喝杯咖啡。我们称之为‘来一小杯热甜的黑咖啡’。”年轻的巴西展商娜奥米这次带来了自己的创新品牌“口袋咖啡”。
娜奥米说：“人们对精品咖啡越来越感兴趣，甚至会带咖啡豆去徒步旅行，因此我们采用不同处理方式和烘焙程度的咖啡豆做挂耳包，以迎合市场对咖啡口味和形式的需求。”她还介绍了一款采用创新发酵工艺制作的咖啡，产品花香浓郁，喝起来如茶般清爽，在展会上很受欢迎。
专做精品咖啡的圣莫尼卡咖啡首席执行官马塞洛·莫斯科菲安介绍，公司产品主要销往拉丁美洲国家，但已开始在中国等市场试销，“全产业链发展让巴西精品咖啡兼具品质和价格优势，我们认为中国市场潜力巨大。”（完）
Sao Paulo, July 1 (Xinhua) -- Journalist's note | Brazilian boutique coffee is at the right time
Xinhua News Agency reporter Lu Junyu
In Brazil, coffee is not only a beverage, but also a deeply rooted culture. In the past, people used to drink traditional follicular coffee, but now people are beginning to understand the new market and new ways of drinking coffee, "said Cayo Alonso, the head of the Sao Paulo Coffee Festival." The boutique coffee market is changing the consumption habits of Brazilians
From June 26th to 28th, the Ibirapuera Park Biennale building was filled with the aroma of coffee. Coffee growers, roasters, experts, and enthusiasts gathered at the 5th S ã o Paulo Coffee Festival to experience the vibrant vitality of the entire industry chain of Brazil's premium coffee market through a variety of coffee experience activities.
Brazil is the world's largest producer and exporter of coffee, with production areas concentrated in the southeastern states of Minas Gerais, S ã o Paulo, and Paran á. Usually, coffee with a score of 80 or above under the assessment system of the Global Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) is classified as a specialty category, representing high quality and unique regional flavors.
Flora Serra, the owner of the coffee plantation at Consuelo Farm, said that this family farm located in the Garza region has been passed down to the third generation. More than 40 years ago, in pursuit of mechanical productivity, her grandfather decided to relocate from the mountains of Minas to the plain of Garza and open up a new coffee plantation. Our premium coffee is of low quantity and high quality. When picking, only fully ripe fruits are selected, and during the green bean stage, strict screening is carried out through electronic machines to eliminate defects. The coffee beans come with extremely high sweetness and do not require sugar during brewing
Sela explained that traditional sun exposure can preserve the surface microorganisms of coffee beans to the greatest extent possible, showcasing the unique nutty, caramel, and chocolate flavors of coffee in the Garza region. Although the current main output of the estate is still bulk commodity beans, specialty coffee will be the focus of future layout. As producers, we are actively planning and trying to establish contacts with importers in China
In the Brazilian market, five years ago I could only find pre ground coffee powder, but now I can buy coffee beans and also choose hanging ear coffee. Fine coffee is more popular, especially among young people with higher acceptance. "Coffee enthusiast Bruno Ferras said that this is his third time visiting the S ã o Paulo Coffee Festival. Ferras observed that in recent years, the variety of coffee products in Brazil has become increasingly diverse, and the advantage of production areas has made it easier for consumers to access different varieties, flavors, and processing methods of coffee. Online information cannot replace the actual taste experience, and the coffee festival provides the opportunity to taste dozens of types of coffee at the same time
As a young generation of coffee consumers, Ferras prefers hand brewed coffee to create a more layered flavor, and when time is tight, he chooses convenient hanging ear coffee. More and more exhibitors are trying different processing methods and showcasing different coffee varieties, indicating that the industry as a whole is moving towards diversification. The younger generation is the main force driving this trend
In Brazil, hanging ear coffee is quietly emerging. Drinking coffee all day is a daily habit in Brazil. I come from the southern part of Minas Gerais state, and in the community, the way neighbors express their concern is to invite each other to their homes for a cup of coffee. We call it 'a small cup of hot and sweet black coffee'. "Young Brazilian exhibitor Naomi brought her innovative brand" Pocket Coffee "this time.
Naomi said, "People are becoming increasingly interested in specialty coffee, and even take coffee beans on hiking trips. Therefore, we use coffee beans with different processing methods and degrees of roasting to make ear bags to meet the market's demand for coffee taste and form." She also introduced a coffee made with innovative fermentation technology, which has a strong floral aroma and a refreshing tea like taste, and is very popular at exhibitions.
Marcelo Moscovian, CEO of Santa Monica Coffee, which specializes in specialty coffee, introduced that the company's products are mainly sold to Latin American countries, but have begun trial sales in markets such as China. "The development of the entire industry chain has enabled Brazilian specialty coffee to have both quality and price advantages, and we believe that the Chinese market has enormous potential," (End)