杭州湖滨88开了一家女仆咖啡，用“正统”努力构建这个赛道Hangzhou Hubin 88 has opened a maid coffee shop, striving to build this track with "orthodoxy"
潮新闻客户端 记者 潘骏
下午三点，湖滨88四楼。走进一扇粉色系的大门，一位身着黑色女仆装的女孩鞠躬迎接：“欢迎回来，少爷。”落座后，她会在蛋包饭上用番茄酱画出你指定的图案，念一段自创的魔法咒语，然后双手合十：“现在它已经变成全世界最好吃的蛋包饭了。”
这家叫Nikoni的女仆咖啡厅，4月底试营业，是杭州首家开在商场里的女仆咖啡厅。两个月过去，它在社交平台上话题不断：有人说“杭州终于有了”，也有人吐槽“新客体验不稳定”“食物配不上价格”。
近日，记者来到Nikoni，与运营者CC及店内两位服务员聊了聊。
nikoni门店招牌
做一家“正统”的女仆咖啡厅
CC的履历有些出人意料，她曾是媒体人，跑过房地产，后来创业做活动策划，从国风IP到二次元，一步步走进了这个赛道。
“我是媒体出身，习惯把一份事业当作一条线口来走。”CC说，“国风是我的爱好，二次元也是。近两年我开始做二次元这条线，跟游戏公司交流、去上海等地学习，把这条线口跑起来。”
女仆咖啡并非新鲜事物。早在2000年代，北京、上海就曾出现过一批女仆咖啡厅，但大多未能持续经营。近年来，随着二次元文化从小众走向主流，这一业态再次浮出水面。
开一家女仆咖啡的想法，源于对整个二次元消费链条的观察。“之前圈子里有小伙伴想开执事店，我们去做市场调研，接触蛋糕供应链、店铺玩法，后来专门去看了很多家店，了解了1年多。做事前你要先认知及了解这个文化。”
选址湖滨88，逻辑很清晰。作为杭州公认的二次元地标，湖滨88近年来持续加码二次元业态布局，从中国国际动漫节的城市级IP影响力，到湖滨商圈密集的谷子店、主题展和coser聚集活动，这栋商场四层楼里已经聚集了小小谷努咪、Miniso Friends、暴蒙、阅文好物等十余家动漫周边零售店，形成了杭州最成熟的“逛谷子＋打卡”消费动线。对Nikoni来说，开在这里不是偶然，而是看中了整栋楼的二次元客群基础。“这边流量很好，客流很全，‘谷子店＋吃仆咖’的消费动线是天然成立的。虽然成本相对较高，但首先它是很正统的店。”
Nikoni店内坐满了顾客
采访中，CC 反复强调“正统”这个词。
“我不是陪玩为主的店。很多店的主要收益来源是女仆陪你玩，卖的是女仆的时间。但我们首先是个餐饮店，女仆服务是叠加在上面的。”
她解释，Nikoni所有的女仆首先是一名服务员，“上餐、介绍菜品，这是她的本职工作。你需要更多互动，可以点拍立得、点舞蹈。我们不主张女仆在店里陪聊陪玩，也禁止所有女仆与客人私联。”
这个定位跟十年前那批女仆咖啡截然不同。那个阶段的女仆咖啡更像一个同好聚会场所，偏桌游店性质，爱好者自己开，圈子感很重。“现在不一样了。我们要做的是正规运营的餐饮店，很多东西控得比较严。”
店内女仆服务员舞蹈演出
近30名女仆、取消桌位费：规范化运营的背后
Nikoni目前拥有近30名女仆和执事，实行轮班制，一个班次7小时。
“之前来面试的有四五十人，加上试岗的更多。”CC介绍，招募时最看重的是女仆为客人带来的情绪价值，说话做事要让客人觉得舒服，不被冒犯。”
值得注意的是，尽管行业普遍面临人员流动问题，Nikoni的流失率相对低，“到现在为止，试运营结束，前后流动的大约只有5人左右。”
但运营并非一开始就规范。“开到现在两个月，近一个月才梳理完所有女仆的手册和SOP（标准作业程序）。”CC坦言，这个圈子没有像普通餐饮那样的行业标准，“每家店都得自己做自己的东西。我们先梳理出自己的标准，经过一两个月调整，慢慢完善。”
餐品也在持续迭代。“菜单更新了三版，图要找专门画师手绘的。之前的炸鸡觉得不好吃就换新的，基本上每三个月从餐品到内部培训到人员，再做一轮升级。”翻开Nikoni的手绘菜单，餐食涵盖饮品、小吃、甜品、主食四大类，价格在25元到98元不等，一杯特调魔法饮料28元起，一份咖喱鸡魔法蛋包饭68元，最贵的星落和风菲力牛排98元。服务类项目另计：拍立得合照58元起，Live舞蹈歌曲表演78元起。人均消费在100元至150元之间。
nikoni菜单
CC透露，门店曾尝试过引入女仆咖啡通行的“旅行费”（桌位费，按分钟计费），但最终取消了。
“上海所有的店铺都有旅行费，每分钟0.5元至1元，保证翻台率。我们试过，舆情反馈比较大。最后几个合伙人商量了一下，暂时拿掉了。”她说，“希望大家来这里，点一杯东西，愿意多待就多待。如果店里很忙、外面排队，我们也会积极沟通。”
在客群上，CC明确表示不希望做小圈子。“开门迎客，谁都可以来。”我们会看到妈妈带孩子来，甚至有年纪大的阿姨直接拿现金付款。有lo娘，有coser，有小博主，当然大多数是普通二次元爱好者。在nikoni没有限定人群，进来就是用餐的、来玩的。
来店的顾客和店内服务员的拍立得合影墙
5年老兵与新手的一天
兔兔是店里的资深女仆。上海人，高二开始兼职入行，已经在女仆咖啡行业干了5年，同时还是地下偶像，做了4年。
“之前在上海做过3家店”，她告诉记者，自己本身就是女仆文化的深度爱好者，“会跑别的女仆咖啡厅去玩，杭州这边还处于刚起步的阶段。”
她的一天从整理仪容仪表开始。化好妆、佩戴好工服上所有的小装饰，然后站在门口拿菜单迎客。入座后介绍菜单和世界观，再加一段自我介绍。后续是上餐、收餐盘、引导结账，中间穿插拍立得和Live表演。
“最多的一天至少施过27个魔法（包括蛋包饭绘盘和饮品美味魔法），拍立得最多的一天有40多张。”
兔兔给蛋包饭做的盘绘
下班后的时间也没有闲着。“回大家的评论和report，练习新的舞蹈和唱歌，准备新的妆造和活动物料。有些上班时没来得及画完的拍立得签绘，回家还要继续补。全部结束了基本只剩睡觉的时间了。”
“家里人知道你的工作吗？”记者问
“知道，但不大同意。”她笑了笑。
问到未来，她的回答很坚定：“应该会继续做这个工作。我的梦想是成为小偶像，希望有更多舞台、能跟更多人产生连接。目前5年女仆4年偶像，想象不到不干这个工作的日子，可能至少做到30多岁吧。”
金金是店里的新手。她的入行经历很随意：“那天跟朋友逛街，刚好路过，看到还在招聘，那就必须来看看。加上微信发信息，第二天就来上班了。”
“我之前就特别喜欢女仆的感觉，买过一双鞋，鞋扣都是女仆主题的。”她说，来上班之后发现比想象中更好玩，“以为就是上菜、做盘绘，没想到还有拍照、跟客人聊天，在这里大家都很喜欢我，我也很喜欢大家。”
下了班呢？“下了班就是一个宅女，在家里玩手游。上班和下班是两种状态。”
业态创新背后的挑战
记者在Nikoni待了一个下午，最大的感受是：用传统餐饮的标准去评判它，可能不太合适。
这里的消费者，追求的不是这顿饭好不好吃，而是在店内的这段时间开不开心。蛋包饭是载体，女仆的互动、绘盘、Live、拍立得才是真正被消费的东西。这跟去剧本杀、去密室逃脱、去演唱会的底层需求是一样的——为体验付费，为情绪买单。
当然，问题也很真实。食物品质配不上定价、服务标准化不足、员工流动影响体验，这些不是业态新就能豁免的。任何一种商业模式，如果核心产品——哪怕这个产品是“情绪”——不够稳定，就经不起时间的考验。
“女仆咖啡的本质是‘关系经济’，核心资产是员工与顾客之间的情感连接。”一位长期关注二次元业态的观察者表示，但如何在新客体验、服务标准化、员工稳定性之间找到平衡，是所有本土仆咖都要面对的课题。
暑假还在继续。湖滨88四楼的女仆咖啡能不能从“网红打卡”变成“持续复购”，取决于它能不能在有趣之外，也把靠谱这件事做好。
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Trendy News Client Reporter Pan Jun
At 3pm, on the fourth floor of Hubin 88. Entering a pink door, a girl dressed in a black maid costume bows and greets, "Welcome back, young master." After taking her seat, she will draw the pattern you specified on the egg shaped rice with tomato sauce, recite a self created magic spell, and then fold her hands together, saying, "Now it has become the best egg shaped rice in the world
This maid caf é called Nikoni, which opened for trial at the end of April, is the first maid caf é in Hangzhou to open in a shopping mall. Over the past two months, it has kept on talking on the social platform: some people said that "Hangzhou has finally come into existence", while others roast that "the experience of new customers is unstable" and "food can't match the price".
Recently, the reporter visited Nikoni and had a chat with the operator CC and two waiters in the store.
Nikoni store sign
Establish a 'legitimate' maid caf é
CC's resume is somewhat unexpected. She used to be a media person and ran through real estate. Later, she started her own business and planned activities. From Guofeng IP to anime, she stepped into this track step by step.
"I was born in the media, and used to take a career as a line." CC said, "The national style is my hobby, and so is the anime. In the past two years, I started to do the anime line, communicate with game companies, go to Shanghai and other places to learn, and run this line."
Maid coffee is not a new thing. As early as the 2000s, there were a number of maid cafes in Beijing and Shanghai, but most of them were unable to continue operating. In recent years, with the anime culture moving from the minority to the mainstream, this business has emerged again.
The idea of opening a maid coffee originates from the observation of the whole anime consumption chain. Before, there was a friend in the circle who wanted to open a running store. We went to do market research, got in touch with cake supply chains, and store gameplay. Later, we specifically went to see many stores and learned about them for more than a year. Before doing anything, you need to first recognize and understand this culture
The location of Hubin 88 is logically clear. As a recognized anime landmark in Hangzhou, Hubin 88 has continuously increased its anime business layout in recent years. From the city level IP influence of China International Animation Festival to the intensive Guzi stores, theme exhibitions and coser gathering activities in Hubin business circle, this mall has gathered small Gu Numi Miniso Friends、 More than ten anime related retail stores, such as Baomeng and Yuewen Haowu, have formed the most mature "browsing guzi+clocking in" consumer flow in Hangzhou. For Nikoni, it is not an accident to drive here, but rather the anime customer base of the whole building. The traffic here is very good, with a wide range of customers. The consumption flow of 'guzi store+eating pu ka' is naturally established. Although the cost is relatively high, first of all, it is a very legitimate store
The Nikoni store is filled with customers
During the interview, CC repeatedly emphasized the word 'orthodox'.
I am not a shop that focuses mainly on entertainment. The main source of revenue for many shops is the maid accompanying you to play, selling the maid's time. But first and foremost, we are a restaurant, and maid services are stacked on top of it
She explained that all of Nikoni's maids are first and foremost servers, "serving and introducing dishes is her job. You need more interaction, you can order Polaroids and dances. We do not recommend maids to chat and play with customers in the store, and we prohibit all maids from having private conversations with customers
This positioning is completely different from the batch of maid coffee ten years ago. At that stage, maid coffee was more like a gathering place for like-minded people, leaning towards a board game shop nature, with enthusiasts opening their own businesses and a strong sense of community. It's different now. What we need to do is operate a regular restaurant, with strict control over many things
In store maid and waiter dance performance
Nearly 30 maids, cancellation of table fees: Behind standardized operations
Nikoni currently has nearly 30 maids and deacons on a rotating system, with each shift lasting 7 hours.
Previously, there were forty to fifty people who came for the interview, and with the addition of more candidates for the position, CC explained that the most important factor in recruitment is the emotional value that the maid brings to the guests. Her speech and actions should make the guests feel comfortable and not be offended. ”
It is worth noting that although the industry generally faces personnel turnover issues, Nikoni's turnover rate is relatively low. "So far, after the trial operation is completed, only about 5 people have left before and after
But operation is not standardized from the beginning. It has been two months since then, and it has only been nearly a month since all the maids' manuals and SOPs (Standard Operating Procedures) were sorted out. ”CC admitted that there are no industry standards like ordinary catering in this circle. "Each store has to make its own thing. We first sort out our own standards, and after one or two months of adjustment, we gradually improve them
The food is also constantly iterating. "The menu has been updated for three versions, and the picture needs to be hand drawn by a professional painter. The fried chicken before was not delicious, so it was replaced with a new one. Basically, every three months, from meals to internal training to personnel, and then a round of upgrading." Open Nikoni's hand drawn menu, the meals cover four categories: drinks, snacks, desserts, and staple foods, and the price ranges from 25 yuan to 98 yuan. A cup of special magic drink starts at 28 yuan, a Chicken in curry sauce magic egg meal is 68 yuan, and the most expensive star drop and Fengfeili steak is 98 yuan. Service items are separately charged: Polaroid group photos start at 58 yuan, and Live dance song performances start at 78 yuan. The per capita consumption is between 100 yuan and 150 yuan.
Nikoni menu
CC revealed that the store had attempted to introduce a "travel fee" (table fee, billed by minute) for maid coffee access, but ultimately cancelled it.
All shops in Shanghai have travel expenses, ranging from 0.5 yuan to 1 yuan per minute, to ensure a turnover rate. We have tried it and received a lot of public feedback. Finally, a few partners discussed and decided to temporarily remove it, "she said." We hope everyone can come here, order something, and stay as long as they are willing. If the shop is busy and there is a queue outside, we will also actively communicate
On the customer base, CC clearly stated that they do not want to be in a small circle. Open the door to welcome guests, anyone can come. We will see mothers bringing their children, and even older aunties paying in cash directly. There are Luo Niang, coser, and small bloggers. Of course, most of them are ordinary anime lovers. There are no specific groups of people in Nikoni, and those who come in are for dining and playing.
The Polaroid photo wall of customers coming to the store and the staff inside the store
A Day for 5 Years of Veteran and Novice
Tu Tu is a senior maid in the shop. Shanghai native, started working part-time in her sophomore year and has been working in the maid coffee industry for 5 years. She is also an underground idol and has been working there for 4 years.
I have previously operated three stores in Shanghai, "she told reporters." I am a deep enthusiast of maid culture and would go to other maid cafes to play. Hangzhou is still in its infancy
Her day started with tidying up her appearance. Put on your makeup, wear all the small decorations on your work clothes, and then stand at the door to welcome the guests with a menu. After seating, introduce the menu and worldview, and then add a self introduction. The follow-up includes serving, receiving plates, guiding checkout, interspersed with Polaroid and Live performances.
On the day with the most, at least 27 spells were cast (including egg buns, rice dishes, and delicious drinks magic), and on the day with the most Polaroids, there were over 40
The plate painting made by Rabbit for Egg Bun Rice
There is no idle time after work. Reply to everyone's comments and reports, practice new dances and singing, prepare new makeup and event materials. Some Polaroid signature paintings that were not completed in time for work still need to be supplemented when they return home. It's all over and there's basically only time left for sleeping. ”
Do your family members know about your job? "The reporter asked
I know, but I don't quite agree, "she smiled.
When asked about the future, her answer was firm: "I should continue to do this job. My dream is to become a little idol, hoping to have more stages and connect with more people. Currently, I have been a maid for 5 years and an idol for 4 years. I can't imagine a day without this job, maybe at least until my 30s
Jin Jin is a novice in the store. Her entry experience was very casual: "That day, I was shopping with friends and happened to pass by. When I saw that there were still job openings, I had to come and take a look. Plus, I sent messages on WeChat and came to work the next day
I used to really like the feeling of being a maid before. I bought a pair of shoes with maid themed buckles, "she said. After coming to work, she found it more fun than she had imagined." I thought it was just serving dishes and doing plate art, but I didn't expect to take photos and chat with customers. Everyone likes me here, and I also like everyone
After work? After work, she becomes a homebody and plays mobile games at home. Working and leaving work are two different states
The challenges behind business innovation
The reporter stayed at Nikoni for an afternoon and the biggest feeling was that it may not be appropriate to judge it according to traditional dining standards.
The consumers here are not pursuing whether the meal is delicious or not, but whether they are happy during the time in the store. Egg wrapped rice is the carrier, and the interaction and drawing of the maid's plate Live、 Polaroids are the real things that are consumed. This is the same as the underlying needs of going to murder mystery rooms, escape rooms, and concerts - paying for the experience, paying for the emotions.
Of course, the problem is also very real. Food quality cannot match pricing, service standardization is insufficient, and employee turnover affects the experience, which cannot be exempted just because the business model is new. Any business model cannot withstand the test of time if its core product, even if it is an "emotion," is not stable enough.
"The essence of maid coffee is a 'relationship economy', and the core asset is the emotional connection between employees and customers." An observer who has long been concerned about the anime format said that how to find a balance between new customer experience, service standardization, and employee stability is a topic that all local servants must face.
The summer vacation is still ongoing. Whether the maid coffee on the fourth floor of Hubin 88 can change from "internet celebrity check-in" to "continuous repurchase" depends on whether it can be both fun and reliable.
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