「“两山”转化」洞穴咖啡何以走红｜修文县创新保护开发岩溶洞穴资源How did cave coffee become popular through the transformation of "two mountains"? Innovative protection and development of karst cave resources in Xiuwen County

在贵阳市修文县一个山洞内，每天都有上百名游客手持咖啡，在烛光、石景与水滴声中慢慢乐享“消暑时光”。

游客在洞口排队领取咖啡。

这家名为“山由XIU”的洞穴咖啡店，去年8月试运营以来，已累计接待6万人次，全网浏览量超8000万次。喀斯特溶洞里“长”出的网红咖啡馆，折射出贵州“两山”转化的创新路径。

8月3日，记者从贵阳市区驱车约50分钟抵达位于修文县香巴湖村的洞穴咖啡店。尽管当天是工作日，还下着大雨，但在山洞前的停车区，仍然停放着不少来自浙江、北京、广东、四川等地的车辆。

撑伞穿过一片碎石子路，“山由-XIU COFFEE”的牌匾映入眼帘。进洞后，世界忽然安静下来，耳边只闻滴水声、风声和咖啡机研磨声。

浙江义乌游客黄女士（右一）一行。

游客们在吧台前排着队，来自浙江义乌的黄女士端着一杯“木姜子美式”，凑到同伴鼻尖：“你闻闻，像不像昨天吃的酸汤牛肉的蘸水味？”她对记者说，“小红书刷到这家洞穴咖啡，明天就离开贵州了，今天下雨也得来品尝这里的‘洞咖’。”

洞壁褶皱温润，钟乳石在灯下泛光，亿万年的地质纹路，成了独特的背景板。没刷油漆、没有过度补光。只是加了烛火、星空灯和几十张可拆装桌椅。

洞穴咖啡水洞区。

“溶洞本来就好看。我们没有擅自修改。”在吧台忙碌的袁洪龙，是洞穴咖啡店的合伙人之一。

他敲敲杯子：“杯子是新的，洞是老的。原始的物件不动，新东西可拆，力争做到最小扰动。”

一杯咖啡，卖的不是豆子，是“情绪体验”。

年轻人钻进大山里的溶洞，听水滴，看石笋，翻两页书。左手是冰凉岩壁，右手是热咖啡，这样的“情绪体验”，在喧闹的城市中很难找到。

袁洪龙。

两年前，在这座人迹罕至的溶洞里，脚下是凹凸不平的小路，头顶是上游排下来的生活污水，洞底是2米多厚的淤泥。一度让想在这里引进咖啡馆业态的袁洪龙和合伙人犯了难。

“那时候走进去，鞋都拔不出来。”袁洪龙指着如今平整的碎石路面说。决定在这里开店后，他们没有大兴土木，而是像修补瓷器一样对待溶洞：淤泥一筐筐运出，污水一层层过滤，连桌椅都是可以随时搬走的。

现在的溶洞，是另一番光景。咖啡香混合着水汽，游客们在水洞里消暑，或者在旱洞里捧一本书，与存在亿万年的石笋相伴。这种“左手触石笋，右手捧书卷”的奇特体验，让他们甘愿在雨中排队等候入洞。

咖啡特调猕猴桃美式。

这个溶洞不仅见证了一家咖啡店的成长，更凸显了一个地区生态文明的进步。

修文县有402个溶洞，过去大多是无主“野洞”，地貌原始，常年闲置，有些溶洞甚至成了环境恶化的“垃圾洞”。为了扭转这一局面，全县开展摸排溶洞资源、明确属地管理等工作，逐渐厘清村集体产权边界与管护责任，把无主闲置山体转化为产权清晰、可入股经营的生态资产。

与之同步，修文县综合行政执法局建立常态化管护机制，对在册溶洞开展定期抽验。依托“村收集、镇转运、县处理”的城乡环卫一体化体系，今年以来累计清运溶洞积存垃圾5吨，经统一转运至瀚蓝贵阳垃圾焚烧发电厂实施无害化处置，从源头斩断溶洞污染源。

种种举措为溶洞咖啡的出现提供了契机。

“原本无人看管的溶洞现在变成全天候管护，相当于用商业营收反哺生态管护。”袁洪龙深知，喀斯特生态容不得试错，“门店营收持续投入溶洞环境监测、岩体养护、山林植被修复，形成资源反哺保护的闭环，这样才能让洞穴咖啡产业可持续发展。”

不仅如此，由于毗邻桃源河漂流、贵州森林野生动物园、浅山牧场等景区，咖啡店周边民宿、农家乐500余个床位早在7月初便预订一空。

咖啡店的走红，不仅保护盘活了溶洞资源，更留住了人心，23张本地面孔在家门口圆了就业梦想。今年22岁的苏凤飞，是一个刚从医学专科学校毕业的大男孩，因为酷爱磨咖啡，就返回家乡到洞穴咖啡店工作。

苏凤飞（左）与同事在吧台核对咖啡订单。

手腕翻转，奶泡在杯中绽开一朵拉花。看着家乡因这杯“洞咖”出圈，苏凤飞的语气很自豪：“磨咖啡是我的爱好，我现在每天能做60多杯咖啡，在学校食堂咖啡店实习时，我就知道这辈子离不开这股浓郁的香味。”

目前，已有3家洞穴咖啡店在修文县落地生根。该县将握紧资源确权这把“金钥匙”，串起集体入股的“红绳”，搭好三产融合的“戏台”，唤醒大山里沉睡的岩溶洞穴资源，使其真正变成村集体和群众看得见、摸得着的生态红利。

天眼新闻记者 张弘弢

编辑 彭林元

二审 谢巍娥

三审 干江东

In a cave in Xiuwen County, Guiyang City, hundreds of tourists hold coffee every day and slowly enjoy the "cooling time" amidst candlelight, stone scenery, and the sound of water droplets.

Tourists queue up at the entrance of the cave to collect coffee.

This cave coffee shop called "Shan You XIU" has received a total of 60000 visitors and over 80 million online views since its trial operation in August last year. The internet famous cafes that have grown out of karst caves reflect the innovative path of Guizhou's transformation from "two mountains".

On August 3rd, the reporter drove about 50 minutes from downtown Guiyang to reach the cave coffee shop located in Xiangbahu Village, Xiuwen County. Despite it being a working day and heavy rain, there were still many vehicles from Zhejiang, Beijing, Guangdong, Sichuan and other places parked in the parking area in front of the cave.

Carrying an umbrella through a gravel road, a plaque reading "Mountain by XIU COFFEE" came into view. After entering the cave, the world suddenly quieted down, and only the sound of dripping water, wind, and coffee machine grinding could be heard in my ears.

Ms. Huang (first from the right) and her group of tourists from Yiwu, Zhejiang.

Tourists lined up in front of the bar, and Ms. Huang from Yiwu, Zhejiang, held a cup of "Mujiangzi American style" and leaned in close to her companion's nose. "Do you smell it like the dipping flavor of sour beef soup you had yesterday?" She told reporters, "I came across this cave coffee shop on Xiaohongshu and will leave Guizhou tomorrow. Even if it rains today, I have to come and taste the 'cave coffee' here

The folds of the cave wall are warm and moist, and stalactites shine under the lamp. The geological patterns of billions of years have become a unique backdrop. No painting, no excessive finishing. Just added candles, starry sky lights, and dozens of detachable tables and chairs.

Cave coffee water cave area.

The cave was already beautiful. We didn't make any unauthorized modifications, "said Yuan Honglong, one of the partners of the cave coffee shop, who was busy at the bar.

He knocked on the cup and said, "The cup is new, the hole is old. Primitive objects remain unchanged, while new things can be disassembled, striving to minimize disturbance

A cup of coffee doesn't sell beans, it's an emotional experience.

Young people crawl into caves in the mountains, listening to water droplets, watching stalagmites, and flipping through two pages of books. The emotional experience of having a cold rock wall on the left and hot coffee on the right is difficult to find in a noisy city.

Yuan Honglong.

Two years ago, in this rarely visited cave, there were uneven paths underfoot, domestic sewage discharged from upstream above, and mud over 2 meters thick at the bottom of the cave. At one point, it made it difficult for Yuan Honglong and his partners who wanted to introduce the coffee shop format here.

At that time, when I walked in, I couldn't even pull out my shoes, "Yuan Honglong pointed to the now flat gravel road and said. After deciding to open a shop here, they did not engage in large-scale construction, but treated the cave like repairing porcelain: the mud was transported out in baskets, the sewage was filtered layer by layer, and even the tables and chairs could be moved away at any time.

The current cave is a different scene. The aroma of coffee mixed with water vapor, tourists cool off in water caves or hold a book in dry caves, accompanied by stalagmites that have existed for billions of years. This peculiar experience of "touching stalagmites with their left hand and holding a scroll with their right hand" made them willing to queue up in the rain and wait to enter the cave.

Coffee special kiwi American style.

This cave not only witnessed the growth of a coffee shop, but also highlighted the progress of ecological civilization in a region.

Xiuwen County has 402 karst caves, most of which used to be unclaimed "wild caves" with primitive landforms and idle for years. Some caves have even become "garbage caves" due to environmental degradation. In order to reverse this situation, the entire county has carried out surveys of karst cave resources, clarified territorial management, and gradually clarified the boundaries of village collective property rights and management responsibilities, transforming unclaimed idle mountains into ecological assets with clear property rights that can be invested and operated.

At the same time, the Comprehensive Administrative Law Enforcement Bureau of Xiuwen County has established a normalized management and protection mechanism, and conducts regular spot checks on registered karst caves. Relying on the integrated urban-rural environmental sanitation system of "village collection, town transportation, and county treatment", a total of 5 tons of accumulated garbage in karst caves have been cleared and transported to Hanlan Guiyang Garbage Incineration Power Plant for harmless disposal since the beginning of this year, cutting off the source of karst cave pollution from the source.

Various measures have provided opportunities for the emergence of cave coffee.

The previously unattended karst caves have now become all-weather managed and protected, which is equivalent to using commercial revenue to support ecological management and protection. "Yuan Honglong deeply understands that karst ecology cannot tolerate trial and error." Store revenue continues to invest in karst cave environmental monitoring, rock mass maintenance, and forest vegetation restoration, forming a closed loop of resource feedback and protection, so as to enable the sustainable development of the cave coffee industry

Moreover, due to its proximity to scenic spots such as Taoyuan River Drifting, Guizhou Forest Wildlife Park, and Qianshan Ranch, more than 500 beds of homestays and farmhouses around the coffee shop were fully booked as early as early July.

The popularity of coffee shops not only protects and revitalizes cave resources, but also retains people's hearts. 23 local faces have fulfilled their employment dreams at their doorstep. Su Fengfei, 22 years old this year, is a young man who has just graduated from a medical college. Due to his love for grinding coffee, he returned to his hometown and worked at a cave coffee shop.

Su Fengfei (left) and colleagues are checking coffee orders at the bar counter.

Wrist flipped, milk foam bloomed in the cup like a flower. Watching her hometown become famous for this cup of "dongka", Su Fengfei's tone was proud: "Grinding coffee is my hobby. I can make more than 60 cups of coffee every day now. When I interned at the school cafeteria coffee shop, I knew that I couldn't live without this rich aroma in my life

Currently, three cave coffee shops have taken root in Xiuwen County. The county will firmly grasp the "golden key" of resource ownership, string together the "red rope" of collective investment, build a "stage" of integration of the tertiary industry, awaken the dormant karst cave resources in the mountains, and truly turn them into ecological dividends visible and tangible to village collectives and the masses.

Tianyan News reporter Zhang Hongtao

Editor Peng Linyuan

Second instance Xie Wei'e

Third instance Gan Jiangdong