云南咖啡为啥能“代表中国”？Why does Yunnan coffee represent China?
3月19日下午，习近平来到云南丽江古城，沿着石板路边走边看。当地居民和沿途游客十分热情地向总书记问好：“能不能邀请您来喝杯咖啡？”习近平不时停下脚步同大家亲切交流：“云南咖啡还是代表着中国的，现在国外也是受欢迎的。”
红彤彤的咖啡果。人民网记者虎遵会摄
云南咖啡，为啥能代表中国？
首先，在全国处于绝对优势的种植面积和产量。
宁洱种植的瑰夏咖啡。陶平摄
2024年，云南省咖啡种植面积126.7万亩、产量14.6万吨，均占全国的98%以上，稳坐中国咖啡产地的“头把交椅”。
云南咖啡的种植历史最早可以追溯到130年前，目前主要分布在普洱、保山、临沧、德宏、西双版纳、怒江等6个州市。地处北回归线附近、低纬度、高海拔、昼夜温差大、土壤肥沃且弱酸性……云南的自然条件，与国际知名咖啡产区相似。
咖农正在翻晒咖啡果。人民网记者虎遵会摄
尤其是小粒咖啡，在彩云之南找到了绝佳的安身之所。云南咖啡“浓而不苦、香而不烈、略带果酸”的特质，近年来愈发赢得圈内人士的认可。星巴克、雀巢、瑞幸纷纷推出多款云南咖啡豆产品。无论是国际巨头还是本土咖啡新势力，云南咖啡豆都已成为其“必选项”。
其次，是明显提升的品质。
云南咖啡种植规模虽然在国内领跑，但在国际咖啡豆供应体系的占比却不足2%。此外，云南咖啡的传统品种为卡蒂姆系列杂交种，虽然抗病高产，但品质却很难跻身顶级。
咖农在采摘咖啡。思茅区融媒体中心供图
品质和产量在国际市场都不占优势，自然就没有定价权。加上种植水平和加工的滞后，云南咖啡一度面临“卖一斤咖啡豆，买不起一杯咖啡”的困境。
如何破局？2022年，云南省出台“咖六条”等一系列政策，支持云南咖啡走精品化、精深加工之路。
咖农正在采摘咖啡。人民网记者虎遵会摄
划定精品咖啡适宜种植区105万亩，推广瑰夏、铁皮卡等优良品种，打造云咖品牌建设精品庄园……经过3年努力，截至2024年，云南咖啡的精品率已由2021年的8%提升至31.6%，精深加工率已由2021年的20%提升至80%。
据昆明海关统计，2024年云南省出口咖啡3.25万吨，同比增长358%，远销至荷兰、德国、美国、越南等29个国家和地区。
普洱市孟连县富岩镇咖农正在翻晒咖啡豆。人民网记者 虎遵会摄
第三，是越来越高的市场认可度。
如今，从北上广深到四五线小城市，咖啡馆正迅速普及。特别是不少90后、00后，已经从喝咖啡提神，升级为品咖啡味道。速溶咖啡卖不了高价，西湖龙井可不便宜！
更何况，日益增强的文化自信，让年轻一代少了些对国际品牌的仰望，而多了几分对国产咖啡的好奇。不少云南咖啡从业者表示，云南咖啡的产量未来满足国内市场都不容易！
咖农正在采摘咖啡。人民网记者虎遵会摄
一杯咖啡能让你大脑飞速运转，精力充沛地投入到工作；一杯咖啡也能让你慢下来，遇见并享受“诗和远方”。咖啡，是一种饮品，同时也是一种生活态度。
实际上，丽江并不产咖啡，但却为咖啡提供了极佳的咖啡消费场景——推窗见雪山，特别适合端一杯咖啡发呆。依托丰富的咖啡资源和文化，云南积极推进“咖旅融合”，打造一批咖啡庄园、咖啡市集、咖啡街区等以咖啡为主题的新型消费场景，让游客从咖啡种植、采摘到品鉴全程参与，沉浸体验。品咖啡滋味，享风土人情。
各类咖啡产品。人民网记者 刘怡摄
今年两会期间，云南省委书记王宁向全国网友发出“旅居云南”的邀请，希望越来越多的人来到云南，不再匆匆“打卡”，而是住上一段时间，感受一种“始于山水、归于烟火”的美好。打开这份美好，不妨从一杯云南咖啡开始。
记者：叶传增 朱红霞 徐前 木胜玉
策划：杨文明
Local residents and tourists along the way warmly greeted General Secretary Xi Jinping, saying, "Can we invite you to have a cup of coffee?" Xi Jinping occasionally paused to exchange with everyone, saying, "Yunnan coffee still represents China, and it is also popular abroad now
Red coffee fruit. Photo by Hu Zunhui, a reporter from People's Daily Online
Why can Yunnan coffee represent China?
Firstly, having an absolute advantage in planting area and yield nationwide.
The Guixia coffee planted in Ning'er. Photo by Tao Ping
In 2024, Yunnan Province will have a coffee planting area of 1.267 million mu and a yield of 146000 tons, accounting for over 98% of the national total, firmly holding the top spot in China's coffee producing areas.
The cultivation history of Yunnan coffee can be traced back to 130 years ago, and it is currently mainly distributed in six provinces and cities including Pu'er, Baoshan, Lincang, Dehong, Xishuangbanna, and Nujiang. Located near the Tropic of Cancer, at low latitudes, high altitudes, with large temperature differences between day and night, fertile and weakly acidic soil... Yunnan's natural conditions are similar to those of internationally renowned coffee producing areas.
The coffee farmer is sun drying coffee fruits. Photo by Hu Zunhui, a reporter from People's Daily Online
Especially the small grain coffee has found an excellent place to settle down in the south of Caiyun. The characteristics of Yunnan coffee, such as being strong but not bitter, fragrant but not strong, and slightly acidic, have gained increasing recognition from industry insiders in recent years. Starbucks, Nestle, and Luckin Coffee have launched multiple Yunnan coffee bean products. Whether it is an international giant or a local coffee new force, Yunnan coffee beans have become their "must-have".
Secondly, there is a significant improvement in quality.
Although Yunnan's coffee planting scale is leading in China, its proportion in the international coffee bean supply system is less than 2%. In addition, the traditional variety of Yunnan coffee is the Katim series hybrid, which, although resistant to disease and high-yielding, is difficult to rank among the top in terms of quality.
The coffee farmer is picking coffee. Photo provided by Simao District Integrated Media Center
Quality and output do not have an advantage in the international market, so naturally there is no pricing power. Due to the lag in planting level and processing, Yunnan coffee once faced the dilemma of "selling one pound of coffee beans and not being able to afford a cup of coffee".
How to break the deadlock? In 2022, Yunnan Province will introduce a series of policies such as the "Six Measures for Coffee" to support Yunnan coffee to pursue the path of refinement and deep processing.
The coffee farmer is picking coffee. Photo by Hu Zunhui, a reporter from People's Daily Online
Designate a suitable planting area of 1.05 million acres for premium coffee, promote excellent varieties such as Guixia and Tiepika, and build a premium estate for Yunnan coffee brand construction... After three years of efforts, as of 2024, the premium rate of Yunnan coffee has increased from 8% in 2021 to 31.6%, and the deep processing rate has increased from 20% in 2021 to 80%.
According to Kunming Customs statistics, Yunnan Province will export 32500 tons of coffee in 2024, a year-on-year increase of 358%, which will be exported to 29 countries and regions including the Netherlands, Germany, the United States, and Vietnam.
Coffee farmers in Fuyan Town, Menglian County, Pu'er City are drying coffee beans. Photo by Hu Zunhui, a reporter from People's Daily Online
Thirdly, there is an increasing market recognition.
Nowadays, coffee shops are rapidly becoming popular in small cities ranging from Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen to fourth and fifth tier cities. Especially for many post-90s and post-00s generations, they have upgraded from drinking coffee to enjoying the taste of coffee. Instant coffee cannot be sold at a high price, but West Lake Longjing is not cheap!
Moreover, the increasing cultural confidence has reduced the younger generation's admiration for international brands and increased their curiosity about domestic coffee. Many Yunnan coffee practitioners have expressed that it will not be easy for Yunnan coffee production to meet the domestic market in the future!
The coffee farmer is picking coffee. Photo by Hu Zunhui, a reporter from People's Daily Online
A cup of coffee can make your brain run rapidly and you can be energized to work; A cup of coffee can also slow you down, meet and enjoy 'poetry and distance'. Coffee is a beverage and also a way of life.
In fact, Lijiang does not produce coffee, but it provides an excellent coffee consumption scene - pushing the window to see snow capped mountains, especially suitable for holding a cup of coffee and daydreaming. Relying on rich coffee resources and culture, Yunnan actively promotes the integration of coffee and tourism, creating a number of new consumption scenes with coffee as the theme, such as coffee estates, coffee markets, and coffee streets, allowing tourists to participate in the entire process from coffee planting, picking to tasting, and immerse themselves in the experience. Taste coffee and enjoy local customs.
Various types of coffee products. Photo by People's Daily reporter Liu Yi
During this year's Two Sessions, Wang Ning, the Secretary of the Yunnan Provincial Party Committee, extended an invitation to netizens across the country to "stay in Yunnan", hoping that more and more people will come to Yunnan, no longer rushing to "check-in", but staying for a period of time to experience a beauty that "begins with mountains and waters and returns to fireworks". To unlock this beauty, why not start with a cup of Yunnan coffee.
Reporter: Ye Chuanzeng, Zhu Hongxia, Xu Qianmu, Sheng Yu
Planning: Yang Wenming