云南咖啡种植者赚得盆满钵满 Yunnan coffee growers earn a lot of money
北京朱文倩、昆明李颖清
全区2024年总产量达到14.6万吨，同比增长13%
2025年1月8日，在云南省普洱市一家庄园里，工人们庆祝今年咖啡豆丰收。
由于全球咖啡豆供应短缺和价格上涨，中国西南部的云南省抓住机会，在全球范围内扩大业务并出口优质本地收获的咖啡豆。
巴西是世界上最大的咖啡生产国，占全球咖啡供应量的40%。巴西速溶咖啡行业协会最近预测，由于恶劣天气，今年南美洲国家的咖啡豆产量预计将下降4.4%，这一趋势可能会持续到2026年。国际咖啡价格最近在趋势的推动下，创下了近半个世纪以来的历史新高。
云南咖啡种植历史超过130年，已成为中国最大的咖啡种植产区之一。云南省农业农村厅表示，截至去年底，全省咖啡总产量达到14.6万吨，产值近50亿元（约合6.81亿美元），同比增长13%。
更多阅读： 1. 普洱茶：从一颗小小的咖啡豆中提取财富 2.
昆明海关表示，今年前两个月云南出口咖啡豆2787.5吨，同比增长114.1%。出口额为1.4亿元，同比激增339.3%。
去年，云南咖啡豆出口量达3.25万吨，同比增长了358%。主要出口到荷兰、德国、美国、越南等29个国家和地区，云南咖啡豆出口值居全国第一。
“去年，云南咖啡豆的收购价达到了31.6%，深加工率也达到了80%。”云南咖啡协会会长李小龙说。
李说：“云南将继续提高咖啡豆的深加工率，加强产品研发，提升品质。我们将坚持走培育更多优质咖啡豆之路，开发不同类别、口味和包装的各种产品，以帮助提振消费。”
李补充说，他特别受到习近平主席最近在云南丽江古城访问时的一次评论的启发。3月19日，习近平受邀品尝了一杯咖啡，并评论说“云南咖啡代表中国”，这给了当地产业参与者巨大的鼓舞和认可。
随着中国成为主要的咖啡消费国，过去几年中国的咖啡行业经历了显著增长，众多国内咖啡品牌涌现，并发展出更升级的产业链。
保山语林咖啡有限公司（Baoshan Linguo Coffee Co Ltd）是一家位于云南著名咖啡产区、优质咖啡集散地的保山咖啡种植商和加工商。该公司表示，两年前访问其保山基地时，欣赏到了当地咖啡豆的品质，因此向包括沃尔玛会员店Sam's Club在内的各种客户提供了咖啡豆。
“我们一直非常注重质量，只有高质量才能吸引更多的顾客。如果只是普通的咖啡豆，考虑到种植和加工的成本，很难盈利，”Linguo Coffee总裁曹存利说。他一直坚持按照国际标准种植有机咖啡豆，尽管公司的产量并不高。
2025年1月8日，普洱市一位咖啡生产商向游客讲解有关咖啡的有趣知识。 (摄影/新华社)
曹说，随着国际咖啡市场价格上涨以及巴西等国产量的减少，云南种植的咖啡豆销量有所增加。然而，要长期提升销量仍依赖于提供高质量的产品。
与此同时，云南普洱市被发现特别适合种植阿拉比卡咖啡豆，这要归功于其理想的气候和肥沃的土壤。
据普洱市茶叶和咖啡产业发展中心预测，在2024-25年度生产季，普洱绿色咖啡豆产量预计将达到5.8万吨，与去年持平。根据当前市场价格分析，预计产值将成为自该市开始种植咖啡豆以来最好的年份。
昆明海关普洱分局副局长李军说：“我们充分发挥了普洱茶检测国家级重点实验室的作用，组织专家组对普洱咖啡种植示范基地的土壤、灌溉水、咖啡豆和病虫害进行了检测。”
昆明海关着力帮助当地咖啡豆种植户和加工商进一步提升产品质量，帮助企业解决在种植过程中遇到的问题，指导企业调整种植密度、定期进行病虫害监测等，提高产品品质稳定性。
李说，根据测试结果，已就咖啡种植技术提供了更多指导，以保障普洱市咖啡产业及其出口业务的健康发展。
在国际市场对高品质咖啡豆需求不断增长的情况下，普洱当地政府也积极指导种植户提高认识，培育更多优质咖啡豆，推动升级进程。
当地政府表示，普洱市现有咖啡种植户和从业者约27万人，与三年前相比，人均收入翻了一番。
另读：咖啡文化在中国市场逐渐流行
除了种植咖啡，普洱还开发了以新消费场景为特色旅游项目。这些项目包括咖啡庄园、咖啡主题商业综合体、邮局和公园等，咖啡的多元化商业模式也帮助“渗透”到普洱的旅游产业。
普洱市政府表示，今年春节期间，普洱共接待游客325万人次，同比增长13.71%，旅游总收入达34.4亿元，同比增长13.21%。
中国的咖啡消费市场一直在快速增长，上海拥有世界上最大的咖啡店数量。根据当地市场信息收集商《商业信息》的数据，截至2023年底，上海共有9553家咖啡店。
中国人均咖啡消费量与日本、韩国、欧洲和美国等成熟市场相比，仍有很大差距。世界华人餐饮联合会的一份报告显示，这无疑为中国咖啡市场创造了巨大的增长潜力。
请联系作者zhuwenqian@chinadaily.com.cn
Beijing Zhu Wenqian, Kunming Li Yingqing
The total output of the entire region in 2024 will reach 146000 tons, a year-on-year increase of 13%
On January 8, 2025, at a plantation in Pu'er City, Yunnan Province, workers celebrated this year's coffee bean harvest.
Due to global coffee bean supply shortages and price increases, Yunnan Province in southwestern China has seized the opportunity to expand its business globally and export high-quality locally harvested coffee beans.
Brazil is the world's largest coffee producing country, accounting for 40% of the global coffee supply. The Brazilian Instant Coffee Industry Association recently predicted that due to severe weather, coffee bean production in South American countries is expected to decline by 4.4% this year, and this trend may continue until 2026. Driven by trends, international coffee prices have recently reached a historic high in nearly half a century.
Yunnan coffee has a history of over 130 years and has become one of the largest coffee growing regions in China. The Department of Agriculture and Rural Affairs of Yunnan Province stated that as of the end of last year, the total coffee production in the province reached 146000 tons, with an output value of nearly 5 billion yuan (about 681 million US dollars), a year-on-year increase of 13%.
More reading: 1 Pu erh tea: Extracting wealth from a small coffee bean
Kunming Customs stated that Yunnan exported 2787.5 tons of coffee beans in the first two months of this year, a year-on-year increase of 114.1%. The export value was 140 million yuan, a year-on-year increase of 339.3%.
Last year, Yunnan's coffee bean exports reached 32500 tons, a year-on-year increase of 358%. Mainly exported to 29 countries and regions including the Netherlands, Germany, the United States, and Vietnam, Yunnan's coffee bean export value ranks first in the country.
Last year, the purchase price of Yunnan coffee beans reached 31.6%, and the deep processing rate also reached 80%, "said Bruce Lee, the president of Yunnan Coffee Association.
Li said, "Yunnan will continue to improve the deep processing rate of coffee beans, strengthen product research and development, and enhance quality. We will adhere to the path of cultivating more high-quality coffee beans, developing various products of different categories, flavors, and packaging to help boost consumption
With China becoming a major coffee consuming country, the coffee industry in China has experienced significant growth in the past few years, with numerous domestic coffee brands emerging and developing a more upgraded industrial chain.
Baoshan Linguo Coffee Co Ltd is a Baoshan coffee grower and processor located in a famous coffee producing area and high-quality coffee distribution center in Yunnan. The company said that when visiting its Baoshan base two years ago, it appreciated the quality of local coffee beans, so it provided coffee beans to customers including Sam's Club, a Wal Mart member store.
We have always been very focused on quality, only high quality can attract more customers. If it's just ordinary coffee beans, considering the cost of planting and processing, it's difficult to make a profit, "said Cao Cunli, President of Linguo Coffee. He has always insisted on planting organic coffee beans according to international standards, even though the company's production is not high.
On January 8, 2025, a coffee producer in Pu'er City explained interesting knowledge about coffee to tourists. (Photography/Xinhua News Agency)
Cao said that with the rise in international coffee market prices and the decrease in production in countries such as Brazil, the sales of coffee beans grown in Yunnan have increased. However, long-term sales growth still relies on providing high-quality products.
Meanwhile, Pu'er City in Yunnan Province has been found to be particularly suitable for growing Arabica coffee beans, thanks to its ideal climate and fertile soil.
According to the Pu'er Tea and Coffee Industry Development Center's forecast, the production of Pu'er green coffee beans is expected to reach 58000 tons in the 2024-25 season, which is the same as last year. Based on current market price analysis, it is expected that the output value will be the best year since the city started planting coffee beans.
Li Jun, deputy director of the Pu'er Branch of Kunming Customs, said, "We have given full play to the role of the State Key Laboratory of Pu'er tea testing, and organized an expert group to test the soil, irrigation water, coffee beans, diseases and pests of the Pu'er coffee planting demonstration base."
Kunming Customs focuses on helping local coffee bean growers and processors further improve product quality, assisting enterprises in solving problems encountered during the planting process, guiding enterprises to adjust planting density, regularly monitor pests and diseases, and improve product quality stability.
Li said that based on the test results, more guidance has been provided on coffee planting techniques to ensure the healthy development of the coffee industry and its export business in Pu'er City.
With the increasing demand for high-quality coffee beans in the international market, the local government in Pu'er actively guides farmers to raise awareness, cultivate more high-quality coffee beans, and promote the upgrading process.
The local government stated that there are about 270000 coffee growers and practitioners in Pu'er City, and the per capita income has doubled compared to three years ago.
Another reading: Coffee culture is gradually becoming popular in the Chinese market
In addition to growing coffee, Pu'er has also developed tourism projects featuring new consumption scenarios. These projects include coffee estates, coffee themed commercial complexes, post offices, and parks, among others. The diversified business model of coffee also helps to penetrate the tourism industry in Pu'er.
The Pu'er Municipal Government stated that during this year's Spring Festival, Pu'er received a total of 3.25 million tourists, a year-on-year increase of 13.71%, and the total tourism revenue reached 3.44 billion yuan, a year-on-year increase of 13.21%.
The coffee consumption market in China has been growing rapidly, with Shanghai having the world's largest number of coffee shops. According to the data collected by the local market information collector "Business Information", as of the end of 2023, there are a total of 9553 coffee shops in Shanghai.
Compared with mature markets such as Japan, South Korea, Europe and the United States, China's per capita coffee consumption still lags far behind. A report from the World Chinese Catering Federation shows that this undoubtedly creates enormous growth potential for the Chinese coffee market.
Please contact the author zhuwenqian@chinadaily.com.cn