一杯咖啡唤醒中国乡村“慢时光”A cup of coffee awakens China's rural "slow time"

2026-08-20 21:00:16 admin 3250
中新网长沙8月20日电 题:一杯咖啡唤醒中国乡村“慢时光”
记者 唐小晴
从长沙驱车两小时,抵达湘赣边界大围山深处的浏阳市张坊镇上洪村。田埂边,伫立着一栋由闲置老屋与鸡棚改造成的白墙黑瓦小院,门前木桩立着“甲由咖啡”四字。推门而入,咖啡香扑鼻。
主理人杨晶今年52岁。2006年,她在长沙创办首家精品咖啡馆,十余年间将门店拓展至二十余家,布局多座城市。2020年,受市场波动影响,线下门店悉数关停,她深耕多年的咖啡事业跌入谷底。

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8月18日,位于湖南浏阳市张坊镇上洪村的“甲由咖啡馆”。中新网记者  唐小晴 摄

转机,始于乡村。“当我望见这片翠绿稻浪,脑海中突然冒出一个念头:若能坐在田边喝杯咖啡,该多好。”随即,杨晶在上洪村租下闲置农房改造“稻田咖啡馆”,既保留传统乡村建筑的拙朴质感,又融入现代设计美学。
“不仅卖咖啡,更‘售卖’田园风景。”杨晶告诉中新网记者,店名“甲由”谐音“加油”,意喻从稻田出发、向下扎根。
这间“村咖”坚持人工点单,咖啡师会为客人讲述每杯饮品的来由,更创新地将本地食材与咖啡、烘焙巧妙融合,独创“稻田咖啡”,研发出“咖啡+大米”“咖啡+米浆”等创新拿铁。杨晶介绍,店内还推出腐乳披萨、黑山羊小食等创意单品,为顾客带来别样惊喜。
一杯招牌“稻田拿铁”,配上几块手作点心,便能让都市人寻回久违的松弛感。开业不久,咖啡馆便成为热门打卡地,走红社交平台。“一天最多卖了300多杯,日营业额超万元人民币。”杨晶说,人们驱车前来,不只是喝咖啡,而是想邂逅稻香、微风与蝉鸣,享受慢下来的惬意时光。

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8月18日,湖南浏阳市张坊镇上洪村“甲由咖啡馆”,主理人杨晶正在做虹吸咖啡。中新网记者 唐小晴摄

咖啡馆内,游客或端杯静坐稻田畔细品醇香,或驻足拍照定格山野风光,远眺青山如黛、稻浪翻涌。“乡村质朴安逸的烟火气,让人身心舒展。这里既能赏田园风光,也能体验乡土趣味,很惬意。”从长沙市区慕名而来的刘珊珊与友人品完咖啡后,又体验了制作咖啡手工皂、绘制油纸伞。
“村咖”不仅引来客流,更吸引年轻面孔。杨晶说,店内十余位员工均为“90后”“00后”。他们依托咖啡馆,通过短视频和新媒体推介乡村风貌与乡土文化。

一杯咖啡激活了一座村庄。“上洪村曾因古法造纸闻名,后来沦为‘空心村’。咖啡馆不仅让村民实现‘家门口’就业,还带动了非遗研学、民宿、农家乐和农特产品销售。”杨晶表示,“村咖”已跳出传统乡村旅游的单一观光模式,正用一杯咖啡重构乡村休闲场景。

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8月18日,在湖南浏阳张坊镇上洪村“甲由咖啡馆”,年轻人前来打卡。中新网记者  唐小晴 摄

稻浪层层生长,咖啡香顺着山风飘向更远的地方。有二十余年咖啡制作经验的杨晶说,希望依托乡村咖啡新业态,吸引在外青年返乡发展,系统培育本土青年咖啡从业者,扶持新人参与行业赛事,打造本土化青年咖啡师队伍。“咖啡馆还将增设面包窑,研发南瓜欧包等特色新品,以精致小众新业态为乡村注入活力。”(完)

Changsha, August 20th (Xinhua) -- A cup of coffee awakens the "slow time" of rural China

Reporter Tang Xiaoqing

Drive two hours from Changsha to Shanghong Village in Zhangfang Town, Liuyang City, located deep in the Dawei Mountains on the border of Hunan and Jiangxi provinces. On the edge of the field, there stands a small courtyard with white walls and black tiles transformed from an idle old house and chicken coop, with the words "Jia You Coffee" standing on a wooden stake in front of the door. Pushing open the door, the aroma of coffee wafted in.

The manager Yang Jing is 52 years old this year. In 2006, she founded the first boutique coffee shop in Changsha, and over the course of more than ten years, expanded the store to more than twenty, with layouts in multiple cities. In 2020, due to market fluctuations, all offline stores were shut down, and her coffee business, which she had been deeply involved in for many years, fell to the bottom.

On August 18th, Jia You Cafe was located in Shanghong Village, Zhangfang Town, Liuyang City, Hunan Province. Photo by Tang Xiaoqing, reporter from China News Service

The turning point begins in the countryside. When I saw this emerald green rice field, a thought suddenly came to my mind: how great it would be to sit by the field and have a cup of coffee. "Immediately, Yang Jing rented an idle farmhouse in Shanghong Village to transform the" Rice Field Cafe ", retaining the rustic texture of traditional rural architecture while incorporating modern design aesthetics.

Not only selling coffee, but also 'selling' rural scenery, "Yang Jing told a reporter from China News Service. The store name" Jiayu "sounds like" go for it ", meaning to start from the rice fields and root down.

This "village caf é" insists on manual ordering, and the barista will explain the origin of each drink to the guests. They innovatively integrate local ingredients with coffee and baking, creating a unique "rice paddy coffee" and developing innovative latte products such as "coffee+rice" and "coffee+rice slurry". Yang Jing introduced that the store also launched creative items such as Fermented bean curd pizza and black goat snacks to bring customers different surprises.

A cup of rice field latte with some hand made Dim sum can make urbanites feel relaxed. Shortly after opening, the caf é became a popular check-in spot and became popular on social media platforms. Yang Jing said, "I sold over 300 cups a day and had a daily turnover of over 10000 yuan." People come by car not just to drink coffee, but to encounter the fragrance of rice, the gentle breeze, and the chirping of cicadas, and enjoy a leisurely time.

On August 18th, Yang Jing, the manager of Jia You Cafe in Shanghong Village, Zhangfang Town, Liuyang City, Hunan Province, was making siphon coffee. Photo by Tang Xiaoqing, reporter from China News Service

In the caf é, tourists can sit quietly by the rice paddies with cups in hand, savoring the rich aroma, or stop and take photos to capture the scenery of the mountains and fields, overlooking the lush green mountains and surging rice paddies. The simple and comfortable smoke and fire atmosphere of the countryside makes people feel relaxed both physically and mentally. Here, you can not only enjoy the rural scenery, but also experience the local fun, which is very pleasant. "Liu Shanshan and her friends, who came from the city of Changsha, tasted coffee and then experienced making handmade coffee soap and drawing oil paper umbrellas.

Village cafes not only attract foot traffic, but also attract young faces. Yang Jing said that more than ten employees in the store are all born in the 1990s and 2000s. They rely on coffee shops to promote rural style and local culture through short videos and new media.

A cup of coffee activated a village. Shanghong Village was once famous for its ancient paper-making techniques, but later became a 'hollow village'. The coffee shop not only provided employment opportunities for villagers at their doorstep, but also stimulated the sales of intangible cultural heritage research, homestays, rural tourism, and agricultural products. Yang Jing said that 'village cafes' have broken away from the traditional single sightseeing mode of rural tourism and are using a cup of coffee to reconstruct rural leisure scenes.

On August 18th, young people came to check in at the "Jiayou Cafe" in Shanghong Village, Zhangfang Town, Liuyang, Hunan. Photo by Tang Xiaoqing, reporter from China News Service

The rice waves grow layer by layer, and the aroma of coffee drifts further along the mountain wind. Yang Jing, who has more than 20 years of experience in coffee production, hopes to rely on the new format of rural coffee to attract young people from outside to return home for development, systematically cultivate local young coffee practitioners, support newcomers to participate in industry competitions, and create a team of local young baristas. The coffee shop will also add a bread kiln and develop new specialty products such as pumpkin European buns, injecting vitality into the countryside with exquisite and niche new formats

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