国产咖啡出圈记The Rise of Domestic Coffee Industry

2026-05-18 09:00:17 admin 3543
一声锣响,“咖叔”李金合登场。
“一二三,开火!”喷枪灼烧虹吸壶,游客纷纷掏出手机,靠着独一无二的喷枪煮咖啡和满满仪式感,位于云南省保山市隆阳区芒宽彝族傣族乡的“路边咖啡馆”成了网红打卡点。
当地人路过踩一脚刹车、自驾滇西北的游客专程来体验,沉寂已久的茶马古道双虹桥,因为这个咖啡馆再次热闹。自打去年国庆爆火出圈,“咖叔”就没闲下来。烧烤、冷饮、土特产……周边农户也纷纷出摊;为了服务游客,政府专门配建了停车场、公厕。“咖叔”一个人,带火了一条街。
咖啡馆更像“咖啡摊”。搭建凉棚,李金合花了3000元。有咖啡庄园业主调侃,自己建庄园前前后后投了3000万元,还不如“咖叔”花3000元带来的人流。“需要冰块得自取,论服务,咱这路边咖啡摊跟城里的咖啡馆、山上的咖啡庄园可没法比!”给记者倒上咖啡,“咖叔”接着分析:“我种的咖啡味道确实不错,但更关键的是用喷灯煮咖啡,视觉冲击力特别强,适合互联网!”“咖叔”自豪地告诉记者,自己种了百亩咖啡,但卖出去的咖啡却不止千亩。
“咖叔”养过猪、喂过蜂,一直在“一产”打转,没想到真正让自己赚到钱的,却是“三产”。
在保山,赚钱的不只是“咖叔”的咖啡馆,还有咖啡庄园。位于“中国咖啡第一村”新寨村的贡江咖啡庄园,前两年种下的咖啡还没到盛果期,庄园主何文俊就赚到了第一笔收入——漫步高黎贡山、俯瞰怒江大峡谷,树下品一杯咖啡或者亲手种下一棵咖啡树,成为庄园的体验项目,咖啡串联起了一二三产业。何文俊说:“在保山,咖啡不仅是产品,也是文化。”
从过去的种咖啡,到如今的品咖啡、感受咖啡文化,云南保山强化全链条服务支撑,赋能精品咖啡产业高质量发展。
近年来,保山市引导“咖啡庄园化、庄园景区化、景区特色化”,实现“以咖为景”;和顺古镇等热门景区,咖啡馆、咖啡店林立,几乎“无景不咖”。从想要过暖冬的旅居客,到想要开一家咖啡馆的义工,越来越多人因为咖啡来到保山。
“人来,需要交通、住宿、餐饮;货走,离不开快递、包装、仓储;这些都能带动地方经济。”保山市咖啡专班成员李廷金介绍,2024年至2025年产季,保山咖农户均收入超10万元;寄递业务突破1000万件,销售额近6亿元;保山市各金融、保险机构推出“咖啡贷”“信用e贷”“价格保险”等金融产品,累计发放贷款6.5亿元、提供保险项目资金8023万元。
商品咖啡豆看国际期货价格。前几年价格低迷时一公斤鲜果只能卖两元人民币左右,不少咖农选择了弃管甚至砍树。有没有办法减少国际期货价格的影响?有!“咖啡馆里的咖啡价格跟期货市场关系不大。少做商品豆、专做精品豆,才能卖上好价格!”李廷金说。
越来越多的90后、00后喜欢上国产咖啡,成为云南精品咖啡发展的有利契机。
高黎贡山雨水足,为了确保咖啡品质,只能靠人工割草。光是割草一项农事服务,李金合的百亩咖啡一年就要花两三万元。“要做精品豆,离不开农事培训等服务。”李廷金说,“咖叔”咖啡园,是保山咖啡产业坚定走精品咖啡之路的缩影。
以茶类比,商品豆是用作袋泡茶的原料;而精品豆则是西湖龙井、武夷山岩茶。作为原料的袋泡茶可以用机械剪,但西湖龙井却需要人工摘;与之类似,商品豆可以一串串地撸,但是精品豆却要一颗颗摘。
为了引导农户改变过去一串撸的习惯,比顿咖啡庄园负责人赵琴香没少去田间地头跟农户商量。“有农户说,咖啡果都一样大,为啥不收?”赵琴香只能耐心解释:“绿果会苦、黄果会涩、红果才甜。都是橘子,没熟透的橘子会酸,熟透了才甜,咖啡也是这般。”政府提供专家资源,比顿咖啡庄园报销交通费用,组织咖农系统培训,培训第一项就是让农户品尝不同咖啡,入口的苦涩,持之以恒的培训,逐渐改变了咖农的种植习惯。
提供种植技术服务、发力标准品牌建设、推动咖啡业态融合,保山市聚力咖啡产业精品化、特色化发展,“十四五”时期,保山咖啡精品率从10%提升到75%、精深加工率从30%提升到90%。截至2025年底,保山全市咖啡产业综合产值突破223亿元。
(来源:人民日报海外版)

With a gong, "Uncle Ka" Li Jinhe appeared.

One, two, three, fire! "The spray gun burned the siphon pot, and tourists took out their phones one after another, relying on the unique spray gun to brew coffee and a sense of ceremony. The" roadside caf é "located in Mangkuan Yi and Dai Ethnic Township, Longyang District, Baoshan City, Yunnan Province, has become a popular check-in spot.

Local tourists who step on the brakes and drive themselves through northwest Yunnan came specifically to experience the long dormant Tea Horse Ancient Road Shuanghong Bridge, as this caf é is once again bustling. Since last year's National Day craze, 'Uncle Ka' has not been idle. Barbecue, cold drinks, local specialties... Surrounding farmers have also set up stalls; In order to serve tourists, the government has specially built parking lots and public toilets. Uncle Ka, alone, ignited a street.

Coffee shops are more like "coffee stalls". Li Jinhe spent 3000 yuan to build a pergola. A coffee plantation owner joked that investing 30 million yuan in building their own estate was not as good as the influx of people brought by "Uncle Coffee" spending 3000 yuan. "If you need ice, you have to take it yourself. In terms of service, our roadside coffee stands are incomparable with coffee shops in the city and coffee plantations in the mountains!" Pour coffee to the reporter, and "Uncle Coffee" then analyzes: "My coffee tastes really good, but more importantly, I use blowtorch to brew coffee, which has a strong visual impact and is suitable for the Internet!" "Uncle Coffee" proudly told the reporter that he planted 100 acres of coffee, but sold more than 1000 acres of coffee.

Uncle Ka has raised pigs and fed bees, and has always been involved in the primary industry. However, he never expected that what truly made him money was the tertiary industry.

In Baoshan, it's not just Uncle Coffee's coffee shops that make money, but also coffee estates. Gongjiang Coffee Plantation, located in Xinzhai Village, known as the "Number One Coffee Village in China", earned its first income before the coffee it planted reached its peak in the first two years. The owner of the plantation, He Wenjun, took a stroll through Gaoligong Mountain, overlooking the Nujiang Grand Canyon, enjoying a cup of coffee under a tree or planting a coffee tree himself, becoming an experiential project for the plantation. Coffee connects the primary, secondary, and tertiary industries. In Baoshan, coffee is not only a product, but also a culture, "said He Wenjun

From growing coffee in the past to tasting coffee and experiencing coffee culture today, Baoshan in Yunnan has strengthened its full chain service support, empowering the high-quality development of the premium coffee industry.

In recent years, Baoshan City has guided the transformation of coffee plantations, estate scenic areas, and scenic areas into distinctive features, achieving the goal of "coffee as the scenery"; Popular scenic spots such as Heshun Ancient Town are lined with coffee shops and cafes, almost devoid of any scenery. From travelers who want a warm winter to volunteers who want to open a coffee shop, more and more people are coming to Baoshan because of coffee.

When people come, they need transportation, accommodation, and catering; when goods leave, they cannot do without express delivery, packaging, and warehousing; all of these can drive the local economy, "said Li Tingjin, a member of the Baoshan Coffee Special Team. In the 2024 to 2025 season, the average income of Baoshan coffee farmers will exceed 100000 yuan; The delivery business has exceeded 10 million items, with sales of nearly 600 million yuan; Financial and insurance institutions in Baoshan City have launched financial products such as "coffee loans," "credit e-loans," and "price insurance," issuing a total of 650 million yuan in loans and providing 80.23 million yuan in insurance project funds.

Check international futures prices for commodity coffee beans. In the past few years, when prices were low, one kilogram of fresh fruit could only be sold for about two yuan, and many coffee farmers chose to abandon their management or even cut down trees. Is there any way to reduce the impact of international futures prices? have The coffee prices in coffee shops have little to do with the futures market. Only by producing fewer commodity beans and specializing in high-quality beans can we sell at a good price! "Said Li Tingjin.

More and more post-90s and post-00s people are fond of domestic coffee, which has become a favorable opportunity for the development of Yunnan's specialty coffee.

Gaoligong Mountain has abundant rainfall and water, so in order to ensure the quality of coffee, we can only rely on manual mowing. Just mowing grass for one agricultural service costs Li Jinhe 20000 to 30000 yuan per year for his 100 acre coffee. To produce high-quality beans, we cannot do without agricultural training and other services, "said Li Tingjin." Uncle Coffee "is a microcosm of Baoshan's coffee industry's firm commitment to the path of high-quality coffee.

Analogous to tea, commercial beans are used as raw materials for brewing tea bags; The high-quality beans are West Lake Longjing and Mount Wuyi rock tea. As a raw material, tea bags can be mechanically cut, but West Lake Longjing requires manual picking; Similarly, commercial beans can be rolled in strings, but premium beans need to be picked one by one.

In order to guide farmers to change their past habit of indulging in a series of activities, Zhao Qinxiang, the head of Bitun Coffee Plantation, went to the fields to discuss with the farmers. Some farmers say that coffee fruits are all the same size, why not harvest them? "Zhao Qinxiang can only patiently explain:" Green fruits are bitter, yellow fruits are astringent, and red fruits are sweet. They are all oranges, unripe oranges will be sour, ripe oranges will be sweet, and coffee is the same.

Providing planting technology services, focusing on standard brand building, and promoting the integration of coffee formats, Baoshan City is committed to the high-quality and distinctive development of the coffee industry. During the 14th Five Year Plan period, the premium coffee rate in Baoshan has increased from 10% to 75%, and the deep processing rate has increased from 30% to 90%. By the end of 2025, the comprehensive output value of the coffee industry in Baoshan City will exceed 22.3 billion yuan.

(Source: People's Daily Overseas Edition)

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