一杯咖啡，从云南大山飘香世界 A cup of coffee, fragrant from the mountains of Yunnan to the world, Xu Yumeng

新华社记者赵彩琳 昆明12月6日电 题：一杯咖啡，从云南大山飘香世界

“保山已经拥有成熟的精品咖啡加工生产流程，并创造出独属于云南咖啡的纯净味道。”考察完几家咖啡庄园，品尝过保山小粒咖啡后，德国咖啡企业家埃里克·巴登说。

12月4日至6日，第二届国际精品咖啡产业发展大会在云南省保山市举办，来自中国、日本、韩国、新加坡等多个国家及地区的咖啡企业、科研专家等齐聚一堂，分享最新研究成果和技术经验，探讨全球咖啡产业的现状与未来。

5日，各国外宾走进保山的咖啡庄园和企业，参观当地咖啡从种植到加工生产的全流程。

这是云南省保山市隆阳区潞江镇新寨村咖啡种植基地内的咖啡鲜果（12月5日摄）。新华社记者 赵彩琳 摄

“有了自己的咖啡种植基地和生产线，我们就可以让更多的人品尝到美味的保山小粒咖啡了。”在壹丁咖啡庄园，董事长丁志难掩激动，“在向世界推介保山高黎贡山产区精品咖啡的这条路上，我已经迫不及待了。”

丁志接触保山小粒咖啡已近16年。2008年，他在成都开了一间咖啡馆，因为想找到自己最满意的咖啡，又来到云南与保山小粒咖啡结缘。

云南保山地处咖啡种植黄金带最北端，西靠高黎贡山、东临怒江，独特的干热河谷气候造就得天独厚的咖啡种植条件。保山小粒咖啡已有70余年历史，以其“浓而不苦，香而不烈，略带果酸”的独特风味受到欢迎。

在丁志眼中，保山拥有生产一杯好咖啡的土壤、气候、品种等基础条件，更重要的是拥有了咖啡的标准化种植和出色的精深加工技术。

十月怀胎，豆熟蒂落。12月的滇西怒江江畔，一颗颗红彤彤的咖啡鲜果缀满枝头，忙碌一整年的咖农们迎来收获的季节。咖农说，一颗豆子从开花到咖啡鲜果成熟收获，需要近10个月的时间，加上后期的加工和发酵，最后成为一杯香浓的咖啡，整个过程用时近一年。

德国咖啡企业家埃里克·巴登在云南省保山市隆阳区潞江镇新寨村咖啡种植基地体验咖啡鲜果采摘（12月5日摄）。 新华社记者 赵彩琳 摄

“咖啡沉淀了时间的味道，保山小粒咖啡则是中国精品咖啡发展的缩影。”云南省农业科学院热带亚热带经济作物研究所咖啡研究中心主任胡发广说，保山小粒咖啡自1952年开始引种，经过70余年发展，走出了一条从生豆出口为主，到进口和精深加工为主的精品咖啡高质量发展之路。

胡发广介绍，云南农科院热经所是云南省最早的咖啡研究机构之一。近年来，该所自主选育了“云咖1号”“云咖2号”“云咖3号”“紫啡”等咖啡新品种，并相继完成部分新品种转化投产，后期还将陆续推出22个具有独立自主知识产权的“云咖”新品种。

“我们想选育出最适合云南生长、最能凸显云南风味的咖啡品种，构建适合云南咖啡生产种植的标准体系。”胡发广认为，只有在科研上多下功夫，才能不断赋能咖啡产业。

目前，云南已发展成为中国咖啡种植规模最大的省份，产量居全国第一。2023年，保山咖啡全产业链产值达76亿元，已与越南、乌干达、尼加拉瓜、萨尔瓦多、东帝汶、日本、韩国等22个国家有咖啡贸易往来。

“咖啡让世界没有距离。”一名日本外宾在保山参观后如此说道。从鲜红的咖啡果到醇黑的咖啡豆，再到人们手中一杯香浓的咖啡，云南咖啡飘香世界的故事还在继续书写。

Kunming, December 6 (Xinhua) -- A cup of coffee wafts from the mountains of Yunnan to the world

Baoshan already has a mature boutique coffee processing and production process, and creates a pure taste unique to Yunnan coffee, "said German coffee entrepreneur Eric Baden after inspecting several coffee estates and tasting Baoshan small grain coffee.

From December 4th to 6th, the 2nd International Fine Coffee Industry Development Conference was held in Baoshan City, Yunnan Province. Coffee companies and research experts from multiple countries and regions, including China, Japan, South Korea, Singapore, etc., gathered together to share the latest research results and technical experience, and explore the current situation and future of the global coffee industry.

On the 5th, foreign guests from various countries visited the coffee plantations and enterprises in Baoshan to observe the entire process of coffee cultivation, processing, and production in the area.

This is a fresh coffee fruit from the coffee planting base in Xinzhai Village, Lujiang Town, Longyang District, Baoshan City, Yunnan Province (taken on December 5th). Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Zhao Cailin

With our own coffee plantation and production line, we can allow more people to taste the delicious Baoshan small grain coffee, "said Ding Zhi, the chairman of Yiding Coffee Estate." I can't wait to promote Baoshan Gaoligongshan premium coffee to the world

Ding Zhi has been in contact with Baoshan small grain coffee for nearly 16 years. In 2008, he opened a coffee shop in Chengdu and came to Yunnan to make friends with Baoshan Xiaoli Coffee because he wanted to find his most satisfying coffee.

Baoshan, Yunnan is located at the northernmost point of the golden belt for coffee cultivation, with Gaoligong Mountain to the west and Nu River to the east. The unique dry and hot valley climate creates unique conditions for coffee cultivation. Baoshan small grain coffee has a history of more than 70 years and is popular for its unique flavor of "strong but not bitter, fragrant but not strong, with a slight acidity".

In Ding Zhi's eyes, Baoshan has the basic conditions such as soil, climate, and variety to produce a good cup of coffee, and more importantly, it has standardized coffee cultivation and excellent deep processing technology.

Pregnant in October, the beans are ripe and the stems have fallen. On the banks of the Nu River in western Yunnan in December, fresh coffee fruits with a bright red color adorn the branches, welcoming the harvest season for busy coffee farmers who have been busy all year round. Coffee farmers say that it takes nearly 10 months for a bean to bloom and harvest as a fresh coffee fruit, plus later processing and fermentation, to become a rich and fragrant cup of coffee. The entire process takes nearly a year.

German coffee entrepreneur Eric Baden experiences fresh coffee fruit picking at his coffee plantation in Xinzhai Village, Lujiang Town, Longyang District, Baoshan City, Yunnan Province (photo taken on December 5th). Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Zhao Cailin

Coffee has accumulated the taste of time, and Baoshan small grain coffee is a microcosm of the development of premium coffee in China, "said Hu Faguang, director of the Coffee Research Center at the Tropical and Subtropical Economic Crop Research Institute of Yunnan Academy of Agricultural Sciences. Baoshan small grain coffee has been introduced since 1952 and has developed for more than 70 years, paving the way for high-quality development of premium coffee from exporting raw beans to importing and deep processing.

Hu Faguang introduced that the Institute of Heat Economics of Yunnan Academy of Agricultural Sciences is one of the earliest coffee research institutions in Yunnan Province. In recent years, the institute has independently selected and bred new coffee varieties such as "Yunka 1", "Yunka 2", "Yunka 3", and "Zifei", and has successively completed the transformation and production of some new varieties. In the future, it will also launch 22 "Yunka" new varieties with independent intellectual property rights.

We want to breed coffee varieties that are most suitable for growing in Yunnan and can highlight the flavor of Yunnan, and build a standard system suitable for coffee production and planting in Yunnan. Hu Faguang believes that only by putting more effort into scientific research can we continuously empower the coffee industry.

At present, Yunnan has developed into the province with the largest scale of coffee cultivation in China, and its output ranks first in the country. In 2023, the total output value of Baoshan Coffee's entire industry chain will reach 7.6 billion yuan, and it has coffee trade relations with 22 countries including Vietnam, Uganda, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Timor Leste, Japan, and South Korea.

Coffee makes the world no distance, "said a Japanese foreign guest after visiting Baoshan. From the bright red coffee fruits to the mellow black coffee beans, and then to the rich and fragrant cup of coffee in people's hands, the story of Yunnan coffee wafting through the world continues to be written.