“板前”（いたまえ）一词源自日本料理语境，指厨师站在操作台后、顾客围坐一圈的制作模式。以前这个场景出现在寿司吧台前，近期在煲仔饭、粉面等赛道里遍地开花。

而现在，它被搬到了咖啡馆里。

01

按套餐售卖、进店要预约，板前的风吹到咖啡赛道

咖啡师站在吧台后，每一步操作——称豆、研磨、注水、闷蒸，都在顾客眼皮底下完成，冲好之后一边递上咖啡，一边讲解这支豆子的产地和风味。与其说是买一杯咖啡，不如说是买了一场“咖啡秀”。

目前已有多个板前咖啡品牌在一、二线城市陆续开出门店。

广州“芥子精品咖啡”被不少网友认为是当地第一家板前咖啡。分时段预约，walk-in不一定能进店或有位置，收50元订金，一客一席。整个店面装修走日式路线，吧台只设6个座位，没有招牌，大门不敞，按门铃才有人接待。

出品主打手冲和虹吸咖啡，八个套餐价格从68元到188元不等。其中一款签名级日晒瑰夏配黄皮雪葩的套餐138元，Iris庄园Echo配鸡蛋仔188元。坐在板前，能看到虹吸壶咖啡的完整制作过程：热水被吸上去浸泡咖啡粉，温度降下来后又往下掉，经过滤纸过滤得到一杯没有残渣的咖啡。咖啡师每冲一杯都会详细讲解，还会用冰冻金属球快速降温来保持风味。

芥子精品咖啡188元套餐 图片来源：小红书截图

杭州的精品咖啡品牌Oval也开出了一家位于广州农讲所的门店，进门就是咖啡吧台，左右各坐五个人，没有其他座位，所有操作都在吧台后完成。出品主打特调和Combo，定价在50到60元。消费者评价称，“下单完会在你面前直接制作，相当于给你一场小表演，也算值回票价”。

上海的“ft.本事”主打“咖啡Omakase”，只卖套餐，有198元和398元两个价位可选，搭配方式为“一咖一甜”或“一咖一咸一甜”。

据了解，该店位于上海洛克·外滩源的荣府大楼，该大楼内商户均为新荣记旗下餐饮品牌。工商信息显示，“ft.本事”所属企业为上海啡本特事咖啡有限公司，控股股东为张勇持股75%的荣家味道（上海）企业管理有限公司。

据打卡过的消费者介绍，咖啡师会用低温慢煮的方式处理牛奶来融合埃塞拿铁，用Paragon冰球冲煮后再倒入勃艮第红酒杯品鉴瑰夏，再搭配干冰手打秋月梨作为甜品，“是一脉相承的新荣记风格，太细致太周到了”。

本事咖啡门头；图片来源：小红书截图

板前咖啡的风还从东南沿海刮向了西南。昆明“红熨斗”是当地出圈的板前咖啡，60平方米的空间以大面积留白和正红装饰点缀，店内每次最多接待5位客人，只接受预约，每个时段约80分钟。咖啡师在吧台前，从食材称重到调和、装饰，每个步骤清晰可见，还会详细讲解每一杯的搭配灵感。

一套特调售价约68元，以云南当地食材为创意出发点，例如其选用大理黑糖和雕梅酒制成的“云乳花扇”、取自云南普洱特色菜撒撇灵感的“酸酸撒撇”，都收获了不少好评。虽然这些特调的基底仍包含咖啡，但在店家提供的一整套赏味仪式面前，咖啡本身更像是这场表演的配角。

红熨斗咖啡制作过程；图片来源：小红书截图

02

那些“一夜爆红”的咖啡们，

后来都怎么样了？

除了板前咖啡外，近年市场上还出现过不少“一夜爆红”的咖啡：每当一种新奇的咖啡出现时，总有不少人愿意为首次体验买单，但新鲜感过后，能留下多少回头客，仍是未知数。

前两年，上海一家名为“根本咖啡”的店铺因一杯“卡门庄园·水洗·瑰夏”标价6200元引爆社交网络。该店选用的是当年巴拿马一批获奖咖啡豆，全球产量仅25公斤。当时店方称已有一名客人交定金购买该款咖啡。

这家店开业后门庭若市，不少人专程打卡，但仅约三个月就大门紧闭、人去楼空。

1杯咖啡售价6200元 图片来源：小红书截图

几乎同一时期，另一家主打“中国咖啡”概念的独立品牌“功夫咖”在深圳高调落地，面积足足500平方米，花了600万投资。店内有伏羲女娲雕塑、太极图和大面积中国风壁画，以“东方茶+西方咖”为特色，一开业就成了网红打卡点，开业10天日均出杯1200杯，最高单日冲到1800杯。但同样没能逃过高开低走的命运——开业仅7个月后，这家首店就悄然关闭。

除了天价咖啡，各种“奇怪”的咖啡特调也曾掀起打卡热潮。比如加入青椒、腐乳、皮蛋等食材的“暗黑咖啡”，在上海、广州等地的独立咖啡馆中轮番出现。一杯“老干妈拿铁”或“臭豆腐美式”往往定价在48元至68元之间，比普通咖啡的价格高出不少。

辣椒菠萝美式 图片来源：小红书截图

这些案例揭示了一个共性：高价或猎奇型咖啡的初次体验往往能吸引足够多的眼球，消费者愿意为尝鲜和社交货币买单。社交媒体上，这类帖子常常获得上千点赞，用户带着猎奇心理到店消费，拍照发圈后便完成了“任务”，很少有消费者会为了同样的怪味咖啡再次上门。

但餐饮终究是一门讲复购的生意。当新奇感消退、帖子发完之后，究竟多少人愿意为一杯50元的青椒拿铁或198元的板前表演多次付费，还需要打一个问号。

板前模式确实在餐饮行业遍地开花，但它板前咖啡与板前煲仔饭、板前粉面有本质区别——后者解决的是高频刚需，消费者要吃饭，板前模式让他们吃得更放心。而板前咖啡是体验型消费，消费频次天然较低。

但也需要承认，板前咖啡的走红，为低迷的精品咖啡赛道提供了一条不卷价格、做透体验的新思路。有人愿意为一场咖啡秀花上百元，说明市场对仪式感和专业服务仍然买账。但这条路能走多远，取决于它能否让消费者在第一次打卡之后，还想来第二次。这一点，是所有高价咖啡、噱头型咖啡共同的考题。

本文来自微信公众号“红餐网”，作者：邱邱，编辑：王秀清，36氪经授权发布。

How many repeat customers can be retained is still unknown.

The wind in front of the board blows onto the coffee track.

The package starts at 68 yuan and requires advance reservation. There is no prominent sign and the door is always closed. Recently, niche markets such as Guangzhou and Shanghai have quietly emerged and are referred to as "pre board coffee" by netizens on social media.

The term 'front of the board' (いたまえ) originates from the context of Japanese cuisine, referring to the cooking mode where the chef stands behind the operating table and the customers sit in a circle. Previously, this scene appeared in front of the sushi bar. Recently, it has bloomed everywhere in the Little pan rice, Vermicelli and other tracks.

And now, it has been moved to a caf é.

01

Selling according to package, reservation is required when entering the store, and the wind in front of the board blows onto the coffee track

The barista stands behind the bar, completing every step - weighing, grinding, pouring water, steaming - right under the customer's nose. After brewing, he hands over the coffee while explaining the origin and flavor of the beans. Rather than buying a cup of coffee, it's more like buying a 'coffee show'.

Currently, multiple pre board coffee brands have opened stores in first and second tier cities.

Guangzhou's "Mustard Seed Boutique Coffee" is considered by many netizens to be the first pre board coffee in the local area. Time slot reservation, walk-in may not be able to enter the store or have a seat, a deposit of 50 yuan is charged, one seat per customer. The entire store decoration follows a Japanese style route, with only 6 seats at the bar and no signage. The front door is not open, and only when the doorbell is pressed can someone be received.

The main products are hand brewed and siphon coffee, with eight set menu prices ranging from 68 yuan to 188 yuan. One of the signature level sun dried rose summer packages with yellow skin popsicle is 138 yuan, and Iris Manor Echo with egg waffles is 188 yuan. Sitting in front of the board, you can see the complete process of making siphon coffee: hot water is sucked up to soak the coffee powder, the temperature drops and then falls down again, and a cup of coffee without residue is filtered through filter paper. The barista will explain in detail every cup they make, and will also use frozen metal balls to quickly cool down and maintain the flavor.

Mustard Seed Premium Coffee 188 yuan Set Picture Source: Screenshot from Xiaohongshu

Oval, a premium coffee brand in Hangzhou, has also opened a store located at Guangzhou Agricultural Research Institute. Upon entering, there is a coffee bar with five people sitting on each side and no other seats. All operations are completed behind the bar. The main products are special blends and Combo, priced at 50 to 60 yuan. Consumer reviews say, 'After placing an order, it will be made directly in front of you, which is equivalent to giving you a small performance and also worth the ticket price.'.

Shanghai's "FT. Skill" focuses on "Omakase coffee" and only sells set meals. There are two price ranges to choose from, 198 yuan and 398 yuan, with pairing options of "one coffee, one sweet" or "one coffee, one salty and one sweet".

It is understood that the store is located in the Rongfu Building of Shanghai Rock Bund Source, and the merchants inside the building are all catering brands under the New Rongji brand. According to the business information, the enterprise to which "FT. Cai" belongs is Shanghai Feiben Te Shi Coffee Co., Ltd., and the controlling shareholder is Rongjia Flavor (Shanghai) Enterprise Management Co., Ltd., in which Zhang Yong holds 75% of the shares.

According to consumers who have checked in, baristas will use low-temperature slow cooking to blend Ethiopian latte with milk, then use Paragon ice hockey to brew it and pour it into a Burgundy wine glass to taste Guixia, and then pair it with dry ice hand pounded autumn pear as a dessert. "It is a new Rongji style that is inherited, too meticulous and thoughtful.

Skilled coffee shop; Image source: Screenshot from Xiaohongshu

The wind of the coffee in front of the board also blew from the southeast coast to the southwest. Kunming's' Red Iron 'is a popular pre board coffee shop in the local area. The 60 square meter space is decorated with large areas of white space and bright red accents. The store can accommodate up to 5 guests at a time and only accepts reservations. Each session lasts about 80 minutes. The barista stands in front of the bar, with every step from weighing ingredients to blending and decorating clearly visible, and will also explain in detail the inspiration for each cup's pairing.

A set of specially adjusted dishes priced at about 68 yuan, with local Yunnan ingredients as the creative starting point, such as the "Cloud Milk Flower Fan" made from Dali black sugar and carved plum wine, and the "Sour and Sour Pastry" inspired by Yunnan Pu'er specialty dishes, have received many positive reviews. Although the base of these features still contains coffee, coffee itself is more like the supporting role of the performance in front of a whole set of taste appreciation ceremony provided by the shop owner.

The process of making red iron coffee; Image source: Screenshot from Xiaohongshu

02

The coffee shops that became popular overnight,

What happened afterwards?

In addition to pre board coffee, there have been many "overnight hot" coffees on the market in recent years: whenever a novel coffee appears, there are always many people willing to pay for the first experience, but after the freshness, how many repeat customers can be left is still unknown.

Two years ago, a shop in Shanghai called "Fundamental Coffee" exploded on social media with a cup of "Carmen Manor · Water Wash · Guixia" priced at 6200 yuan. The store uses a batch of award-winning coffee beans from Panama that year, with a global production of only 25 kilograms. At that time, the store claimed that one customer had already paid a deposit to purchase the coffee.

After the opening of this store, the market was bustling, and many people made a special trip to check in. However, in just about three months, the doors were tightly closed and the building was empty.

1 cup of coffee priced at 6200 yuan Image source: screenshot from Xiaohongshu

Almost at the same time, another independent brand that focuses on the concept of "Chinese coffee", "Kung Fu Coffee", landed in Shenzhen with a high-profile presence, covering an area of 500 square meters and investing 6 million yuan. There are sculptures of Fuxi and N ü wa, Tai Chi diagrams, and large areas of Chinese style murals in the store, featuring "Eastern tea+Western coffee". As soon as it opened, it became a popular check-in spot on the internet, with an average of 1200 cups per day and a peak of 1800 cups per day. But it also couldn't escape the fate of opening high and closing low - just 7 months after opening, this first store quietly closed.

In addition to sky high priced coffee, various "strange" coffee specialties have also sparked a check-in craze. For example, "dark coffee" with green pepper, Fermented bean curd, Century egg and other ingredients has appeared in independent cafes in Shanghai, Guangzhou and other places in turn. A cup of "Old Godmother Latte" or "Stinky tofu American" is often priced between 48 yuan and 68 yuan, much higher than the price of ordinary coffee.

Chili Pineapple American Image Source: Screenshot from Xiaohongshu

These cases reveal a commonality: the first experience of high priced or novelty coffee often attracts enough attention, and consumers are willing to pay for trying it out and social currency. On social media, such posts often receive thousands of likes, and users come to the store with a curious mentality to consume. After taking photos and posting on social media, they complete the "task". Few consumers will come back for the same strange flavored coffee again.

But catering is ultimately a business that emphasizes repeat purchases. After the novelty fades and the post is posted, there is still a question mark on how many people are willing to pay multiple times for a 50 yuan green pepper latte or a 198 yuan pre performance.

The pre board mode is indeed popular in the catering industry, but there is an essential difference between pre board coffee and pre board Little pan rice, and pre board flour noodles - the latter solves the high frequency and rigid demand, and consumers want to eat. The pre board mode makes them feel more at ease. Pre board coffee is an experiential consumption, and the frequency of consumption is naturally lower.

But it also needs to be acknowledged that the popularity of pre board coffee has provided a new way of thinking for the sluggish boutique coffee market, which is not limited to price and provides a thorough experience. Someone is willing to spend hundreds of yuan on a coffee show, indicating that the market still buys into the sense of ceremony and professional service. But how far this path can go depends on whether it can make consumers want to go for a second time after their first check-in. This is a common test question for all high priced coffee and humorous coffee.

This article is from the WeChat official account "Hongshi.com", written by Qiu Qiu and edited by Wang Xiuqing. 36 Krypton is authorized to release.

The viewpoint of this article only represents the author himself, and the 36Kr platform only provides information storage space services.