广州，开始长出自己的咖啡 - 深e度Guangzhou, starting to grow its own coffee - Deep e-degree

8月7日，荔湾区悦汇城。“花城咖香·品味世界”2026广州咖啡文化季的闭幕式在这里举行。政策推介、赛事颁奖、咖啡体验、品牌展销，几件事叠在一起，让咖啡在这座城市里不再只是一杯饮品，而变成了一场有产业逻辑支撑的城市事件。

咖啡在广州的夏天，正以这样的方式发生。

但就在同一座城市，长洲岛有了40亩咖啡基地，从化有了5万株咖啡育苗。广州不是传统意义上的咖啡产区，却开始出现咖啡树、咖啡庄园、烘焙工厂、大量的门店和市集活动。

咖啡在广州，慢慢长出不同的枝杈。

长在广州的咖啡树

七月的长洲岛，空气里还留着一点树叶被晒热后的涩味。红百合生态园的咖啡树就在这时候结了果。青绿色的小果子藏在叶片里，要等到十一月，果皮才会慢慢转红，像一串不那么显眼的灯。

红百合生态园

远处是芒果树、龙眼树、木瓜树。咖啡苗被安放在这些树冠投下的阴影里，是新来的植物，要学会适应这里的光、风和热。有些咖啡苗旁边，还种着南瓜。王红星说，南瓜叶大，能帮着挡一挡七八月的太阳，“太热了，小苗晒不住”。这是他在田里试出来的土办法。

如果往前翻几年，这些树苗还不存在。广州的咖啡叙事一度只停留在消费端，人们在这里卖咖啡、喝咖啡，却不曾想过咖啡也能在这里生长。

“广东不下霜的地方，都能种咖啡。”王红星站在树下说。他是红百合生态园的技术总监，也是一名退役军人，后来自主创业做饲料添加剂。王红星接触咖啡的契机，不是一杯好喝的手冲，而是一个很“饲料”的问题：咖啡叶和咖啡果里的绿原酸，在保健品和饲料添加剂里都有需求。

2022年，他通过华南理工大学高级工程师陈荣，拿到了一批从云南运来的咖啡苗。那年太热了，苗一株株蔫下去，王红星就把它们挪到更密的树荫里，“先种下去，看看能不能活”。到了下半年，新芽又慢慢冒出来。

长在长洲岛上的咖啡豆

广州开始种咖啡，这件事听起来有些许“反常识”。一座以湿热、平原、果树和水汽闻名的城市，为什么会和种咖啡发生关系？咖啡的经典生长地图，一直画在南北回归线之间的“咖啡带”里，从海拔、温差、降雨、土壤来看，咖啡似乎都更偏爱那些更凉爽、更干湿分明、更高的地方。

王红星把目光转向咖啡，最初便是看到咖啡作为“提取物原料”的可能性。他说，很多人一提咖啡，只想到一杯饮品，但从种植端看，咖啡首先是一种作物。

在红百合生态园里，他试了不同的品种和种植环境，“先做试验，看看不同的品种在不同环境下怎么长”。

咖啡育苗

这几年，红百合已经成了广州最大的咖啡生态景观带，四十亩地，二十来个品种，十万株苗。王红星说，眼下最重要的不是着急扩种，而是先把品种和种植方式弄清楚。

为什么还要种咖啡？答案并不只在风土，也在土地利用。王红星算过一笔账：一亩地可以种两百棵咖啡树，一百亩地也不过两万棵。“咖啡树可以长一百多年，不用每年砍掉重来。”在他看来，这不是替代，而是叠加，在原本的果树下，再长出一种新的经济作物。

咖啡在广州种起来，让广州第一次拥有了“咖啡源头”的想象：不是把咖啡只当成一杯城市饮料，而是把它重新放回到树、土地和气候里去理解。

风土之外，广州的咖啡产业

“种得活”只是第一步，离“形成产区”还有很长一段路。

在咖啡行业里，大家常说一句话：产地决定了风味的底色。同是瑰夏品种，巴拿马翡翠庄园呈现茉莉、佛手柑的优雅调性，埃塞俄比亚则是奔放的热带水果与白茶香——基因相同的品种，只因风土不同，风味便截然不同。寻豆师会告诉你，生豆端决定了一杯咖啡百分之六七十的风味轮廓，技术无法凭空创造顶级风味。

但对于大多数日常消费来说，产地感又在不断变弱。连锁品牌的拼配豆混合多个产区的原料，深烘焙会掩盖风土，奶和糖浆也会把产地风味包裹起来。消费者喝到的，往往已经不是一个单纯的产区故事。

“广州种咖啡，不跟云南拼精品。”王红星自己也清楚。广东海拔不够，昼夜温差小，种不出高山咖啡那种明亮的水果酸质。“但可以做基底豆，做提取物。”

相关数据显示，中国2023/2024年度累计进口咖啡豆（包括生豆和烘焙豆）达到32.91万吨，同比增长约30%。而云南年咖啡生豆产量约为13万吨，中国国内咖啡消费量约为34.59万吨。国内产量还远远不能满足消费需求。

咖啡产业从“能种活”到“形成产区”之间，还隔着种植管理、初加工、仓储物流、市场流通和品牌认知等一整套系统。

广州目前显然还不是这样的地方。这里真正强的，是通道。如果说庄园回答的是“咖啡从哪里来”，那么工厂回答的则是“咖啡在广州怎么流动”。

广州作为咖啡流通枢纽的地位，其实早已埋下伏笔。1836年，丹麦商人在十三行靖远街开设了中国第一家咖啡馆“北风与海”。1905年，广州商人陈显原在芳村建起了广州首家本土咖啡烘焙作坊。现在，白云区的金达咖啡饮品城，汇聚了咖啡茶饮行业大量品牌企业，覆盖生豆贸易、烘焙加工、设备供应、技术培训、品牌孵化的全链条。

来回咖啡钟村店

来回咖啡也是一个很典型的例子。

创始人邓梓杨最早做的是石油生意，他自己也承认，当初“并不喜欢喝咖啡”，但觉得这是一个“增量市场”。2015年，来回咖啡在广州天河南开了第一家店。最初他们从美国波特兰、挪威奥斯陆的精品咖啡供应商购买咖啡熟豆，那批进口豆吸引来的第一批粉丝，恰恰是广州各家咖啡厅的店主。“他们知道我们这里有进口的好豆子。”来回咖啡相关工作人员介绍。

来回咖啡的烘焙间

2018年，来回咖啡的钟村店正式开始咖啡烘焙与西点制作供应，来回咖啡在钟村做了“前店后厂”，最早时是一楼有咖啡烘焙区，提供可以一边喝咖啡一边看到烘咖啡的体验，慢慢长成一个复合空间。到今天，来回钟村烘焙工厂有两台烘焙机，一台美国Loring 35公斤全热风、一台德国Probat 12公斤半直火。在烘焙区，每一款豆子都有自己的烘焙曲线。两位烘焙师盯着屏幕，认真核对数据和生豆状态。

这种模式在广州并不多见。它重资产，也重运营：既要管咖啡吧台，又要管烘焙工厂，还要管简餐厨房。选址、消防、食品生产资质、环保要求，每一项都不轻松。

来回咖啡

来回咖啡的逻辑也很清楚：工厂店开在钟村，是因为租金相对便宜；但门店做得好，空间本身也能吸引人流。沙面的店开在老建筑里，老建筑的修复和改造也是自己设计团队做的。“只要做得好，人自然会来。”邓梓杨说。

咖啡的广州路径，是生活也是产业

和许多地方一样，在广州，咖啡店不再只是买一杯提神饮料的地方。有人骑车到江边，吹吹风，喝完咖啡再继续上路；有人牵着小狗走进社区咖啡馆，坐上一下午；有人在老城区的骑楼下，边吃蛋糕边喝手冲咖啡；也有人只是想找一个不那么拥挤的地方，安静待一会儿，看会儿书。

广州的咖啡，出现在社区、近郊、农庄附近和老建筑里。它和广州原本就有的生活方式就衔接紧密。数据可以佐证这种日常感：截至2025年底，广州全市咖啡门店已超过8000家，居全国第二、华南第一。2025年，广州饮料及冷饮服务（咖啡+新式茶饮）营业额同比增长22.8%。

长洲岛的咖啡庄园、从化的咖啡树苗、老城区的社区咖啡馆……看上去是不同的节点，但它们共同指向同一件事，咖啡在广州，从一个舶来的消费品，逐渐变成一座城市组织日常的方式。

如今，广州一年到头都有咖啡市集、咖啡节、品牌快闪和城市活动。它们把原本日常化的消费再度事件化，让品牌和消费者有了面对面的机会，也让咖啡从单纯的饮品，变成可以被安排进周末行程的一件事。庄园、工厂、门店、消费者，这些原本分散在不同环节的人，开始在同一座城市里互相看见。

这大概也是广州咖啡最值得被记录的地方。它并不一定会成为中国最大的咖啡产区，也不必急着证明自己能和巴拿马、埃塞俄比亚竞争。但它确实在用自己的方式，把咖啡重新嵌入城市。

如今的广州，超过8000家咖啡门店散落在街巷、商圈和郊野，是全国咖啡门店数量第二城。一条年产值670亿元的产业链正在悄然生长。它连接进口、生豆、烘焙、设备、门店和消费者，也连接着超过15万个就业岗位。每天，有约200万杯现制咖啡在这座城市里被端起。它从一杯饮品开始，成为一种“新广货”，向上连接土地和供应链，向下进入街区和人的生活。

咖啡就这样从一棵树生长开来，最后落到广州的日常里，凝练成生活本身，也构建起联通世界的产业。

南方网、粤学习记者 夏偲婉

设计：武君丽

编辑：黎洁婵   责任编辑：叶莉子   校对：陈学德

On August 7th, Yuehui City, Liwan District. The closing ceremony of the 2026 Guangzhou Coffee Culture Season, titled 'Flower City Coffee Fragrance, Taste the World', was held here. Policy promotion, event awards, coffee experience, brand exhibition and sales, a combination of several things, have made coffee no longer just a drink in this city, but a city event supported by industrial logic.

Coffee is happening in this way during the summer in Guangzhou.

But in the same city, Cheung Chau Island has a 40 acre coffee plantation, and Conghua has 50000 coffee seedlings. Guangzhou is not a traditional coffee producing area, but has begun to see the emergence of coffee trees, coffee plantations, roasting factories, a large number of stores, and market activities.

Coffee in Guangzhou is slowly growing different branches.

Coffee trees growing in Guangzhou

On Cheung Chau Island in July, there is still a hint of bitterness in the air from the sun drying leaves. The coffee trees in the Red Lily Ecological Park bear fruit at this moment. The small green fruits are hidden in the leaves, and it takes until November for the skin to slowly turn red, like a string of inconspicuous lights.

Red Lily Ecological Park

Red Lily Ecological Park

In the distance are mango trees, longan trees, and papaya trees. The coffee seedlings are placed in the shadows cast by these tree crowns, and they are new plants that need to learn to adapt to the light, wind, and heat here. There are pumpkins planted next to some coffee plants. Wang Hongxing said that pumpkin leaves are big and can help block out the sun in July and August. "It's too hot for the seedlings to bask in," he said. This is the soil method he tried in the field.

If we turn back a few years, these saplings still don't exist. The coffee narrative in Guangzhou once only stayed at the consumer end, where people sold and drank coffee, but never thought that coffee could also grow here.

Wherever there is no frost in Guangdong, coffee can be grown, "said Wang Hongxing standing under the tree. He is the technical director of the Red Lily Ecological Park and a retired soldier who later started his own business as a feed additive. The opportunity for Wang Hongxing to come into contact with coffee was not a delicious hand brew, but a very "feed" issue: chlorogenic acid in coffee leaves and fruits is in demand in health products and feed additives.

In 2022, he obtained a batch of coffee seedlings transported from Yunnan through Chen Rong, a senior engineer at South China University of Technology. That year was too hot, and the seedlings withered one by one. Wang Hongxing moved them to denser shade and said, 'Plant them first and see if they can survive.'. In the second half of the year, new shoots slowly emerge again.

Coffee beans growing on Cheung Chau Island

Coffee beans growing on Cheung Chau Island

Guangzhou has started growing coffee, which sounds a bit counter common sense. Why is a city known for its humid heat, plains, fruit trees, and moisture associated with growing coffee? The classic growth map of coffee has always been drawn in the "coffee belt" between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn. From the perspective of altitude, temperature difference, rainfall, and soil, coffee seems to prefer cooler, drier, and higher places.

Wang Hongxing turned his gaze to coffee, initially seeing the possibility of coffee as an "extract ingredient". He said that many people only think of a cup of beverage when they mention coffee, but from the perspective of cultivation, coffee is first and foremost a crop.

In the Red Lily Ecological Garden, he tried different varieties and planting environments, "first conducting experiments to see how different varieties grow in different environments.

Coffee seedling cultivation

Coffee seedling cultivation

In recent years, the Red Lily has become the largest coffee ecological landscape belt in Guangzhou, covering an area of 40 acres, with around 20 varieties and 100000 seedlings. Wang Hongxing said that the most important thing now is not to urgently expand planting, but to first clarify the varieties and planting methods.

Why still grow coffee? The answer is not only in terms of climate, but also in land use. Wang Hongxing once calculated that one acre of land can plant 200 coffee trees, and one hundred acres of land is only 20000 trees. Coffee trees can grow for over a hundred years without the need to cut them down and start over every year. In his view, this is not a replacement, but a superposition, where a new economic crop grows under the original fruit tree.

Growing coffee in Guangzhou has given Guangzhou its first imagination of the "origin of coffee": not treating coffee as just a city drink, but putting it back into the trees, land, and climate to understand.

Beyond local customs, the coffee industry in Guangzhou

'Growing well' is just the first step, there is still a long way to go before 'forming a production area'.

In the coffee industry, it is often said that the origin determines the color of the flavor. Both of the Guixia varieties, Panama Emerald Estate presents elegant tones of jasmine and bergamot, while Ethiopia is a wild tropical fruit with white tea fragrance - genetically identical varieties, but with completely different flavors due to different terroirs. A bean finder will tell you that the raw bean end determines 60-70% of the flavor profile of a cup of coffee, and technology cannot create top-notch flavors out of thin air.

But for most daily consumption, the sense of origin is constantly weakening. The blended beans of chain brands are mixed with ingredients from multiple production areas, and deep baking can mask the local flavor. Milk and syrup also wrap up the local flavor. What consumers drink is often no longer a simple story of the production area.

Guangzhou grows coffee and doesn't compete with Yunnan for high-quality products, "Wang Hongxing himself knows. The altitude in Guangdong is not high enough, and the temperature difference between day and night is small, making it impossible to grow the bright and sour fruit like high mountain coffee. But it can be made into base beans and extracts

According to relevant data, China's cumulative import of coffee beans (including raw and roasted beans) reached 329100 tons in 2023/2024, a year-on-year increase of about 30%. The annual coffee production in Yunnan is about 130000 tons, and the domestic coffee consumption in China is about 345900 tons. Domestic production is still far from meeting consumer demand.

The coffee industry, from being able to grow and survive to forming production areas, is separated by a complete system of planting management, initial processing, warehousing and logistics, market circulation, and brand awareness.

Guangzhou is clearly not such a place at present. The real strength here is the passage. If the estate answers' Where does coffee come from? ', then the factory answers' How does coffee flow in Guangzhou?'.

The position of Guangzhou as a coffee distribution hub has already laid the groundwork. In 1836, Danish merchants opened China's first coffee shop "North Wind and Sea" on Jingyuan Street in Shisanhang. In 1905, Guangzhou businessman Chen Xianyuan established Guangzhou's first local coffee roasting workshop in Fangcun. Now, Jinda Coffee Beverage City in Baiyun District gathers a large number of brand enterprises in the coffee and tea beverage industry, covering the entire chain of raw bean trade, baking and processing, equipment supply, technical training, and brand incubation.

Round trip coffee to Zhongcun store

Round trip coffee to Zhongcun store

Round trip coffee is also a typical example.

Founder Deng Ziyang initially started his business in the oil industry, and he admits that he "didn't like drinking coffee" at the time, but felt that it was an "incremental market". In 2015, Round Trip Coffee opened its first store in South Tianhe, Guangzhou. At first, they purchased coffee beans from premium coffee suppliers in Portland, USA and Oslo, Norway. The first group of fans attracted by the imported beans were the owners of various coffee shops in Guangzhou. They know we have imported good beans here, "said the coffee related staff back and forth.

The roasting room for coffee back and forth

The roasting room for coffee back and forth

In 2018, the Zhongcun branch of Round Trip Coffee officially began coffee roasting and pastry making supply. Round Trip Coffee has established a "front store and back factory" in Zhongcun. Initially, there was a coffee roasting area on the first floor, providing an experience of drinking coffee while watching the roasting, gradually growing into a composite space. As of today, there are two baking machines in the Zhongcun Baking Factory, one American Loring 35kg all hot air and one German Probat 12kg semi straight fire. In the baking area, each bean has its own baking curve. Two bakers stared at the screen, carefully checking the data and the status of the beans.

This model is not commonly seen in Guangzhou. It values both assets and operations: it has to manage not only the coffee bar, but also the baking factory, and the light meal kitchen. Site selection, fire safety, food production qualifications, and environmental requirements are all challenging.

Round trip coffee

Round trip coffee

The logic of round-trip coffee is also very clear: the factory store is located in Zhongcun because the rent is relatively cheap; But if the store is well done, the space itself can also attract foot traffic. The shop of Shamian is located in an old building, and the restoration and renovation of the old building were also done by our own design team. As long as you do well, people will naturally come, "Deng Ziyang said.

The Guangzhou path of coffee is both a way of life and an industry

Like many other places, in Guangzhou, coffee shops are no longer just a place to buy a refreshing drink. Someone rode a bike to the riverbank, blew the wind, finished their coffee, and then continued on the road; Someone walked into the community caf é with a puppy and sat there for an afternoon; Someone is eating cake and drinking hand brewed coffee under the arcade in the old city area; Some people just want to find a less crowded place, quiet for a while, and read a book.

Coffee in Guangzhou appears in communities, suburbs, near farms, and old buildings. It is closely connected to the lifestyle that Guangzhou already has. The data can support this sense of daily life: by the end of 2025, there will be over 8000 coffee shops in Guangzhou, ranking second in the country and first in South China. In 2025, the revenue of beverages and cold drink services (coffee+new-style tea drinks) in Guangzhou will increase by 22.8% year-on-year.

The coffee plantations on Changzhou Island, the coffee saplings in Conghua, and the community cafes in the old city area... may seem like different nodes, but they all point to the same thing. Coffee in Guangzhou, from a imported consumer product, has gradually become a way for the city to organize daily life.

Nowadays, Guangzhou has coffee markets, coffee festivals, brand flash mobs, and city events all year round. They turn everyday consumption back into an event, giving brands and consumers the opportunity to meet face-to-face, and transforming coffee from a simple beverage into something that can be included in weekend itineraries. Estates, factories, stores, and consumers, who were originally scattered in different links, are starting to see each other in the same city.

This is probably the most noteworthy aspect of Guangzhou coffee that deserves to be recorded. It may not necessarily become the largest coffee producing region in China, and there is no need to rush to prove that it can compete with Panama and Ethiopia. But it is indeed embedding coffee back into the city in its own way.

Nowadays, Guangzhou has over 8000 coffee shops scattered in streets, commercial districts, and suburbs, making it the second city in China in terms of the number of coffee shops. An industrial chain with an annual output value of 67 billion yuan is quietly growing. It connects imports, raw beans, baking, equipment, stores, and consumers, as well as over 150000 job opportunities. Every day, about 2 million cups of freshly brewed coffee are served in this city. It starts with a drink and becomes a 'new commodity', connecting land and supply chains upwards and entering neighborhoods and people's lives downwards.

Coffee grows from a tree and eventually enters the daily life of Guangzhou, condensing into life itself and building an industry that connects the world.

Southern Net and Guangdong Study journalist Xia Siwan

Design: Wu Junli

Editor: Li Jiechan Responsible Editor: Ye Lizi Proofreading: Chen Xuede